Slotting axleboxes

[wakefield]

Does any member know if the proton right angle drill is small enough to use on wagons for slotting the axle boxes. I have been looking online at things like dentists tools etc and there are quite a few options out there but there are no dimensions of the gear head given. Do not want to spend money then find tool is too big.
I wish to spring some RTR wagons and getting between axleguards with a bur or other tool is mot easy but not of course impossible.
Mike Wakefield.

[garethashenden]

I don't think you need a right angle tool. Just something like a dremel tool with a ball burr should do the job. Hold the wagon in one hand, attack with rotary tool in the other, with the wagon upside down.

[Chris Pendlenton]

I have often wished for such a tool Mick such as could be mounted in a vertical drill and worked up and down in a rtr axlebox in a very controlled vertical way. We who have a lot to do with gearboxes should find it not impossible to contrive such a thing driven by a small motor- we arn't talking of needing lots of beef. Such a gadget would also be useful for drilling out axleboxes to accept rigid pin point bearings and there would be loads of other useful applications. However there is the approach Gareth mentions using a simple 2mm ball burr (and also the side drilling manual gagdet using spanners etc) Bob How showed me the right technique with the burr which is very effective at removing plastic. I would however personally be very leery of using such a burr in a dremel in one hand, the upturned wagon in the other as I found it far too dificult to control, with mayhem too easily resulting. Bob showed how gentle twiddling with the hand held burr will get you there more safely. A further caution is the a rotating burr driven vertically downwards will in fact drift off diagonally which is not helpful. Another reason to go slowly and learn with how much of a counter diagonal angle to go at it.
Chris P

[wakefield]

Chris, it is very nice to know that you agree that some sort of right angled power tool would be useful. After I made the post I wondered if I would be out on a limb.
I have even considered using the mill with wagon clamped in vice with some protection against damage but I do not think there is a future there.
My concern is keeping the slot vertically accurate as that controls the wheel base.
I will try the bur methods as outlined by you and Dave in a private email yesterday.
Will put my be very careful hat on.
Mick.

[Neil Smith]

The method advocated by John Hayes in his 4mm Coal Wagon book is to come at the the axleboxes from the bottom, so rather than having the shaft of the burr replicating the wagon axle, it is at 90 degrees.

With this in mind I now hollow out axleboxes using my Dremel mounted in its "drill press" stand, and holding the axlebox to stand vertically in some parallel jaw pliers. Then the side of the burr can be used to make the cut.

I appreciate this does mean the bottom of the axlebox has a chunk taken out of it. But unless you model NER coal staithes with the model viewed from ground level, the chances are this will not be visible (and if you really feel exercised about it, a bit of filler or a sliver of 5 thou stuck across the bottom will solve the problem).

Chris' idea of using a model gearbox is interesting! It ought to be possible to rig up something like a High Level box with a burr where the axle would be, and a shaft holding the worm at the other end which could then be put into the chuck of a Dremel or equivalent?

All the best

Neil

[Guy Rixon]

Would it serve to make up a slotted, brass plate to constrain the axle bearing? The axlebox itself could then be hollowed out with no great precision and the plate glued to its inside edge.

[davebradwell]

Mick, I start by deepening teh axle hole by going in almost horizontally with the spherical burr. It's then possible to plunge downwards almost vertically (all this with burr in pin vice) and because almost all of cutter is buried in plastic it reduces the tendency to wander. The real problem is the upwards cut (which is actually downwards when model right way up) as this certainly does go off at an angle. Some chassis have a suitable hole in the top so ssecond stage could just be repeated. I have a re-ground 2mm wide graver to use as a chisel for tidying up.

I'm sure I remember Chris describing to me a plywood fixture for holding inverted wagon chassis and he used an endmill to widen axleguard spacing. This might be extended by using a 2mm endmill cutting sideways to produce slots, including taking out the bottom of the axleboxes. You'd have to use the dials to get correct wheelbase, assuming you can start in the right place - perhaps by inserting an old axle in the bearings that you can align the cutter with.

Chris also reported sawing off the axlebox, filing slot, then sticking it back on again. Especially good if you want to change the axleboxes anyway.

The trouble with using a plate inside the axebox is just space. It's usually necessary to remove material from inside axleguards to get minimum 23.5 spacing so you'd have to remove a bit more. Difficult to set them to the same wheelbase each side, though and get axle square to c/l.

DaveB

[wakefield]

Dave, thanks for that. The method you outline first is the one Bob uses and he has sent me some photos which make it very clear. I will use my vehicle cradle to firmly hold wagon and I think that will make using the burr more accurate.
Will have a go tomorrow and see how I get on.
Mick.

[sebring115]

Could use one of these and replace the shaft with a burr or drill? https://thepihut.com/products/dual-shaf ... 3kQAvD_BwE

[Daddyman]

The real problem is the upwards cut (which is actually downwards when model right way up) as this certainly does go off at an angle. Some chassis have a suitable hole in the top so ssecond stage could just be repeated. DaveB

In some cases (as long as the wagon doesn't have exposed framework when seen from above) you can create (OK, hack) a hole in the floor of the base, allowing you to make that upward (actually downward) cut. It also helps in thinning the axleguard as you can get in at it better. That was going to be my tactic until you mentioned sawing off the axlebox, which seems a very clever way to do it.

[wakefield]

Thanks for link to motor/gearbox. Looks interesting. I will note dimensions and when I go over to workshop will see it would fit. Burr shaft can be turned to fit. I must say that the more I think about this project coupled with the advice I am being given I am beginning to think that power tools are not the answer. Carefully used manual tools are probably the way to go.
Hope to kick off this afternoon if nothing gets in the way.
Mike.