Swing tool for filing and polishing

[Guy Rixon]

The first ~5 minutes of this video describe a sophisticated jig for optimal filing and polishing of flat parts.

[Wizard of the Moor]

Very interesting. I think that a follow up video on how to set the tool up so that the surface to be flattened is on the axis of swing would be helpful. Seems to me, that unless absolute precision is required, it could take longer to set the thing up than to do a 'good enough for P4' job by eye.

I can see it being useful for finishing up the tops of coupling rods and valve gear.

Thanks for sharing

[Stephan.wintner]

I'm thinking that doesn't need to be very precise. It may not even be needed at all. The key is that the file tends to move in a sort of curve, due to human anatomy. As long as the part can tilt, to align itself with the file, I'm not sure the distance from the axis to the parts surface matters much. I do think it needs to be below center, but whether that is by nearly zero or ten millimeters, i think it works. I agree a precise setup looked a bit tricky.

As it happens that video led me to videos by an Australian who turned up a 100 year old watchmakers lathe, new in its original, aus dem Werk protective grease. I spent an enjoyable hour there (cheers) and several less enjoyable ones surveying watchmakers lathes on eBay....

Stephan

[Terry Bendall]

Seems to me, that unless absolute precision is required, it could take longer to set the thing up than to do a 'good enough for P4' job by eye.

It was an interesting video to watch but like James I am not sure how much it is needed. If done carefully, draw filing, as I described in Scalefour News 218 will produce a flat surface. Wrapping emery cloth around the file, and using increasingly finer grades will allow the surface to be polished and remain flat.

Terry Bendall

[nigelcliffe]

I tend to agree that the work may not need to be exactly on centre, but if it were needed, the end-adjusters could be fitted with a screw to control their travel, then clamped up to hold position.

I'm going put a note on the workshop wall to make one and see whether running between the centres of my lathe works, or whether it needs to be in a watchmaker's set of centres held in a vice so the filing action is in the "right" place for my hands/arms. But not a priority this week, I've other machinery to sort out first.

[Bill Newstead]

With the work piece super glued to the tool how is it removed without damage at the end of the job?

Bill

[Guy Rixon]

With the work piece super glued to the tool how is it removed without damage at the end of the job?

Bill

With acetone, as shown in other videos of the same channel.

[Winander]

I tend to agree that the work may not need to be exactly on centre, but if it were needed, the end-adjusters could be fitted with a screw to control their travel, then clamped up to hold position.

Surely if he work is not on centre it will move in an arc and that will encourage more pressure on the edges? Think of an extreme case where a 30mm wide work piece was 5mm off centre. You want the work to pivot around the centre, not swing around it, to negate any vertical movement of the ends of the file.

[Will L]

I tend to agree that the work may not need to be exactly on centre, but if it were needed, the end-adjusters could be fitted with a screw to control their travel, then clamped up to hold position.

Surely if he work is not on centre it will move in an arc and that will encourage more pressure on the edges? Think of an extreme case where a 30mm wide work piece was 5mm off centre. You want the work to pivot around the centre, not swing around it, to negate any vertical movement of the ends of the file.

Both points covered in the video, but beyond an esoteric interest in precision engineering, I'm not at all sure what you guys are producing that requires horological precision?

[Guy Rixon]

I'm not actually using this. I'm just interested in trades that do fine, delicate metalwork similar to our hobby.

[Wizard of the Moor]

I was thinking of Gauge 1 slidebars.