Page 1 of 1

Soldering mazak

Posted: Sun Mar 25, 2018 3:55 pm
by Lord Colnago
Is it possible to solder mazak castings? I have never had reason to try in the past but I find myself with a broken Class 31 chassis and its a repair or bin situation! I guess the preferred option is obvious.

John.

Re: Soldering mazak

Posted: Sun Mar 25, 2018 3:59 pm
by Lord Colnago
I suppose I could solder it!

Re: Sildering mazak

Posted: Sun Mar 25, 2018 4:02 pm
by Philip Hall
As far as I know it’s not possible. If the die casting is in reasonable condition (apart from the break) and has not deteriorated, then I would suggest Araldite. And I mean proper 24hr Araldite, not anything faster, which will mean supporting the joint so nothing can move as it sets. It is useful to pin the joint or support it with strip material if you can.

Philip

Re: Sildering mazak

Posted: Sun Mar 25, 2018 4:02 pm
by Jol Wilkinson
Your Lordship,

this thread in that other place may help;

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index. ... ast-metal/

Re: Sildering mazak

Posted: Sun Mar 25, 2018 4:05 pm
by Philip Hall
Just seen Jol’s Post and the link, which shows just how much I know! I’d still prefer Araldite though...

Philip

Re: Sildering mazak

Posted: Sun Mar 25, 2018 4:28 pm
by BorderCounties

Re: Sildering mazak

Posted: Sun Mar 25, 2018 4:56 pm
by Philip Hall
It’s quite staggering that this goes back to 2011, and the good folk over there have posted on 37 pages saying the same things over and over again...

This lot doesn’t help his Lordship, but does tell us that gluing, soldering or anything else isn’t going to help him. Best get on to the manufacturers who I am sure will help.

Philip

Re: Sildering mazak

Posted: Sun Mar 25, 2018 5:23 pm
by Lord Colnago
Thanks to all for your replies, especially John for attaching the full story from the RMWeb. A sorry tale indeed. Two possible solutions present themselves. I think I'll make up a plate and epoxy and pin it in place. If that fails, the other solution would mean losing the lighting functions, which I would rather avoid if at all possible. I could do without another job though!

John.

Re: Sildering mazak

Posted: Sun Mar 25, 2018 5:48 pm
by BorderCounties
Yes Philip, that is one of the really "staggering" things about RMweb - repetition and circular arguments. One of the things which really, really annoys me is the unwarranted urge among some posters to quote things in their entirety, so you get the same posts duplicated or even triplicated.

The bottom line with the Mazak problem is that it doesn't go away. I haven't read the whole story but having skimmed through it quickly, one way out of the pickle if you are unable to get a replacement from Hornby may be to use the frame from a Lima class 31 as someone posted over there, and transfer the Hornby mechanism to the Lima chassis.

John

Re: Sildering mazak

Posted: Sun Mar 25, 2018 6:03 pm
by dal-t
BorderCounties wrote:Yes Philip, that is one of the really "staggering" things about RMweb - repetition and circular arguments. One of the things which really, really annoys me is the unwarranted urge among some posters to quote things in their entirety, so you get the same posts duplicated or even triplicated.

John


Hmm, a case of stones and glass houses springs to mind here. Recently, I've found several threads on this forum effectively unreadable due to people quoting quotes of quotes of quotes, ad nauseam and practically ad infinitum. Other forums I frequent specifically caution against this, even going so far as to point out that members are (generally) adult enough to work out when you are replying to a directly preceding comment, without any need to repeat it. I notice that seems a little too difficult for some folk on here - but then I have, of course, just done exactly that in making my complaint so perhaps there is something about 'getting it all right' that drags us into it ...

Re: Soldering mazak

Posted: Mon Mar 26, 2018 7:27 am
by Terry Bendall
Lord Colnago wrote:I think I'll make up a plate and epoxy and pin it in place


Depending on where the repair is needed an alternative to glue is to drill holes through the chassis and the repair plate, thread the holes in the plate and use countersunk screws and glue as well. This gives a belt and braces solution and makes the repair stronger.

Terry Bendall

Re: Soldering mazak

Posted: Mon Mar 26, 2018 8:05 am
by Alan Turner
The Mazak will continue to self destruct and in doing so will expand. Your repair will be short lived and has the potential to damage your body moulding into the bargain (if it hasn't done so already).

regards

Alan

Re: Soldering mazak

Posted: Mon Mar 26, 2018 10:29 am
by Lord Colnago
Thanks Terry and Alan. I have decided not to bang my head against this particular wall and will contact Hornby with a view to sending it back for replacement. One less job to do.

Re: Soldering mazak

Posted: Tue Mar 27, 2018 9:39 pm
by James Wells
BorderCounties wrote:one way out of the pickle if you are unable to get a replacement from Hornby may be to use the frame from a Lima class 31 as someone posted over there, and transfer the Hornby mechanism to the Lima chassis.


Was that me?

You can cannibalise the model and upgrade a Lima model -

http://eastmoor.blogspot.co.uk/2010/11/ ... inale.html

Gets you the best of both worlds with a very finely moulded body with excellent running qaulities.

DSCF2414.JPG


DSCF6572.JPG


The Lima body is much better shaped than the later Hornby model :)

31171.jpg

Re: Soldering mazak

Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2018 8:48 pm
by decauville1126
As a slight aside, Carrs - back in the old days - sold a solder for aluminium/mazak and an appropriate flux which needed copious washing after.

I used it successfully to do a cut-and-shut on some spare Lone Star 000 Amercian F7 bodies to produce an uncabbed intermediate unit. And 20 years or so on it's still in one piece with no signs of corrosion or attack. No different to ordinary soldering but needed a microflame torch to get the heat in.

Re: Soldering mazak

Posted: Thu Mar 29, 2018 10:12 am
by decauville1126
Just came across my Carr's solder 'pile' - it was listed as Carrs 179 for aluminium, and instructions are for Grey flux and then sealed with Electrofix after washing to prevent electrolytic action. Never did do the last bit though ....... and no signs of surface activity when I last looked. Don't know if it's still available, but a whole loco chassis would need a lot of localised heat.