Can anyone assist with this? I want to break some joints that I made using Loctite 603. I have heard that Loctite sell an appropriate solvent for the job but can't find it on their website or anywhere else for that matter. It may well be that I'm stuck with things the way they are (excuse the pun) in which case, so be it, but I would like to separate the joints if I can. All suggestions gratefully received.
John.
Breaking a joint made with Loctite 603
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Breaking a joint made with Loctite 603
The second best priest
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Re: Breaking a joint made with Loctite 603
may not be possible in your case but ....
LOCTITE®603
For Disassembly
1. Apply localized heat to the assembly to approximately 250°C. Disassemble while hot.
For Cleanup
2. Cured product can be removed with a combination of soaking in a Loctite solvent and mechanical abrasion such as a wire brush.
Tim Lee
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Re: Breaking a joint made with Loctite 603
My Lord,
I found this on the Henkel (manufacturer) web site
Q3: I cannot get an assembly apart where a threadlocker was used. What solvent will break the threadlocker down?
A: No solvent will wick into the joint to break the threadlocker down. This is either hand tool removable at room temperature or if not, it requires high temperatures of 450-600°F to separate parts. The products are thermoset plastics in the cured state that soften at higher temperatures. Thus, you need to disassemble while at the higher softening point temperature. Do not let this cool down first. Otherwise, it will resoldify. Solvents like methyl ethyl keytone and methylene chloride can be used for clean-up of residue only after disassembly.
Good luck with this - and happy pedalling.
Joe
I found this on the Henkel (manufacturer) web site
Q3: I cannot get an assembly apart where a threadlocker was used. What solvent will break the threadlocker down?
A: No solvent will wick into the joint to break the threadlocker down. This is either hand tool removable at room temperature or if not, it requires high temperatures of 450-600°F to separate parts. The products are thermoset plastics in the cured state that soften at higher temperatures. Thus, you need to disassemble while at the higher softening point temperature. Do not let this cool down first. Otherwise, it will resoldify. Solvents like methyl ethyl keytone and methylene chloride can be used for clean-up of residue only after disassembly.
Good luck with this - and happy pedalling.
Joe
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Re: Breaking a joint made with Loctite 603
Thanks Joe,
I'm afraid that heat is out of the question in this instance. I'm trying to separate some Exactoscale wheels from their axles so things could get expensive if heat gets involved!
Its certainly not the weather here for cycling, happy or otherwise!!! Still, there will be other days.
John.
I'm afraid that heat is out of the question in this instance. I'm trying to separate some Exactoscale wheels from their axles so things could get expensive if heat gets involved!
Its certainly not the weather here for cycling, happy or otherwise!!! Still, there will be other days.
John.
The second best priest
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Re: Breaking a joint made with Loctite 603
If the wheels are metal centred then I can only suggest you give Loctite a telephone call, they have proved helpful in the past.
If you have glued plastic centred wheels to metal axle, then with Gibson wheels I have found a firm grip with your fingers and a sharp twist will break the bond.
Gordon A
If you have glued plastic centred wheels to metal axle, then with Gibson wheels I have found a firm grip with your fingers and a sharp twist will break the bond.
Gordon A
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Re: Breaking a joint made with Loctite 603
Thanks Gordon, looks like I might have to give them a ring.
John.
John.
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Re: Breaking a joint made with Loctite 603
John,
Not sure if it will work in your situation, but I have had some success with Rite-Lok Debonder. Their website: http://www.clemence.com
I obtained it from my local Robert Dyas (simply because I used to work there and I got it cheap!) but maybe it is obtainable elsewhere. Happy to get some for you, just let me know via a PM.
I have used it on some of the superglues on RTR stuff which as you may know are quite tenuous, and although a failrly gloopy mess resulted, it did dissolve the cyano.
Philip
PS I agree with Gordon; metal to plastic joints are broken by a sharp twist, if you have brass to steel you will need the debonder.
Not sure if it will work in your situation, but I have had some success with Rite-Lok Debonder. Their website: http://www.clemence.com
I obtained it from my local Robert Dyas (simply because I used to work there and I got it cheap!) but maybe it is obtainable elsewhere. Happy to get some for you, just let me know via a PM.
I have used it on some of the superglues on RTR stuff which as you may know are quite tenuous, and although a failrly gloopy mess resulted, it did dissolve the cyano.
Philip
PS I agree with Gordon; metal to plastic joints are broken by a sharp twist, if you have brass to steel you will need the debonder.
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