Scalefour Forum

Can anyone recommend a primer that is suitable for kits made up of white metal, brass and resin parts. Don't know if it makes a difference but the top coats of paint will be acrylic.

Thanks

John

Halford's do excellent primers - normal, etched, filling and plastic varieties so you should find one that suits

Agree^^^^^^

Halford's grey primer in a rattlecan.

Thanks for the replies.

Not sure I made it clear in the first post but this is a single kit made up of white metal, brass and resin parts.

I assume that an etched primer would be best?

John

I've used Halford's normal grey/white/red primer on mixed media projects with success. As long as the parts are clean it goes on really well.

I have made kits in all those materials. I don't prime the resin ones and have never used an etch primer. I don't prime very small models either, in any material, for example bicycles or hand carts. The Halford's grey primer works very well for all else.

What is important is to wash and clean the model before you do any painting. After washing, I put mine under a plastic cloche to keep dust off and let them dry.

For brass use an etch primer. PPP do good one, if you have an airbrush.

Halfords also do an excellent etch primer called U-POL Acid #8 Etch Primer in a rattle can.
Yes, expensive at around £16, but sticks like the proverbial, and gives a super fine finish too.

I've had excellent results using Halford's U-POL Acid #8 Etch Primer, but always on brass. I don't know how it would work on white metal and resin - would it then act as a normal grey primer or would it be pretty useless?

DT

Thanks for all the replies, looks like a trip to Halfords is in order.

John

Just an extra note on the U-Pol primer, should be available from motor factors that sell paint as well as Halfords. May be worth comparing prices.

Tony Comber

This is Halford's own etch primer -

http://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints ... imer-500ml

For mixed media it sounds like a decent punt from the blurb.

To throw a cat amongst the pigeons.... I'm currently trialling an automotive sector 2k primer. This is not cheap but sprays very thinned down so takes a number of passes, but so far very good coverage (albeit built up), no damage to either a Hornby or Bachmann body shell and a bomb-proof, very smooth, thin coat. I've also used Halfords "acrylic" primer thinned with IPA to reasonable success. It is also worth tapping their paint desk people for straight automotive acrylic coloured paints - the black is nuke proof, goes on well too - and if you get thme in a good mood available in a tester pot for about £5/110ml (they're supposed to sell a litre at £25, but as i required a small a mount and there was no mixing they were lenient).

There appears to be two camps here - one that does not use an etch primer and one that does.

With developments in paint technology in recent years, is there any advantage in using an etch primer and if so, what is it?

Etching primer does what it says, it etches/attaches itself to the surface providing a good key for the top coat to adhere to. Halfords plastic primer can be used without fear on an all metal construction model and will give a satisfactory finish to a top coat. An etched primer - in my experience - gives a better finish. Let me qualify that by saying I only spray top coats using cellulose paints, I do not use enamel or acrylics for top coats/finishes. I've found cellulose gives a far better gloss finish than either of the other two. Cellulose can be sprayed over the top of Halfords plastic primer without problem. Just remember that what ever primer you use, your model has to be spotlessly clean, no primer will hide problems only exaggerate them.

regards

Mike

I've built & painted a good few models over the years & tried many different brands.ive found 2 which are my preferred method now.

Upol acid 8 etch primer for galvanized metals was recommended & it sticks better to brass than the ordinary etch primer which has cocked up many a model in the past.

The other is the tamiya fine surface primer. I've found this to be very good & sticks to all metals & plastics.

For extra security I often chemically blacken metals before any painting. Do others think this a good approach or not?

Tamiya acrylic primer is ok too. More expensive but I've heard it said that it covers more thinly.

Tony

andrewnummelin wrote:For extra security I often chemically blacken metals before any painting. Do others think this a good approach or not?

I always use chemical blackening as an initial stage. I sometimes find with items in white-metal that it produces a finish which is more than adequate on its own, obviating the need for actual painting - but that is obviously somewhat dependant on the precise alloy composition.

andrewnummelin wrote:For extra security I often chemically blacken metals before any painting. Do others think this a good approach or not?

I do this as well. I use a blackener from Hobby Holidays which seems to work on virtually any metal and solder.

Well, I can't get any of these common primers to stick to my models any better than plain gloss paint despite careful cleaning and degreasing. Perhaps, then, someone has the knowledge to give an answer to this question: they are all sold for use on car bodies which are essentially steel. Does this mean we can safely assume they will etch into brass and nickel silver? Somehow I doubt it - a version of U-Pol for galvanised surfaces has been mentioned so this indicates the existence of some alternative types for special applications, although I believe zinc is a particular sort of problem because it reacts with the paint.

Test for paint adhesion at work was to rub down a piece of Sellotape then peel off - has anyone enough confidence in their results to try it?

DaveB

davebradwell wrote:Well, I can't get any of these common primers to stick to my models any better than plain gloss paint despite careful cleaning and degreasing. Perhaps, then, someone has the knowledge to give an answer to this question: they are all sold for use on car bodies which are essentially steel. Does this mean we can safely assume they will etch into brass and nickel silver? Somehow I doubt it - a version of U-Pol for galvanised surfaces has been mentioned so this indicates the existence of some alternative types for special applications, although I believe zinc is a particular sort of problem because it reacts with the paint.

Test for paint adhesion at work was to rub down a piece of Sellotape then peel off - has anyone enough confidence in their results to try it?

DaveB

Just tried it with Precision - no problem, but was sprayed 6 months ago. Wouldn't do it with U-pol as it wouldn't even stand up to masking tape sometimes.

Slightly off topic, I've always used a grey primer on locos, most of which have been GWR pre or post 1923. It occurred to me recently that it would make more sense, particularly with a very deep green like the GWR pre-1928, to use a red oxide primer on the basis it would give better depth of colour.

Any thoughts anyone?

Steve

I use the Halford white/grey/red and etch primer too.