Collett Goods gearbox help request

[peterbkloss]

Dear friends

I’m planning on building a chassis for a GWR Collett Goods (22XX) and puzzling over the best motor/gearbox to fit. I’m looking at various high level GB options with a Mash 10 motor and I’d prefer a small flywheel too as I’m using DC (pwm) controllers. I think one of the ‘plus’ GBs is best with a horizontal motor but I’d like some advice/comments

I’m curious to know if you have built one of these what you have used. The small firebox with high slung boiler prevents some difficulties to keep everything hidden

Many thanks in advance, Peter

[Tim V]

As I use DCC, a flywheel is superfluous. Here is the only picture I can find of my Collet.

Workshop (710).JPG

A Mashima 10mm motor from memory.

[garethashenden]

Are you building the High Level chassis or a different one? The High Level one comes with a gearbox.

[Will L]

Dear friends

I’m planning on building a chassis for a GWR Collett Goods (22XX) and puzzling over the best motor/gearbox to fit. I’m looking at various high level GB options with a Mash 10 motor and I’d prefer a small flywheel too as I’m using DC (pwm) controllers. I think one of the ‘plus’ GBs is best with a horizontal motor but I’d like some advice/comments

Peter, you might be interested in how I approached this problem doing an LNER J10. A very similar sort of loco. This involves driving the wheel,under the cab, using a Highlevel gearbox with a drive stretcher which brings the gearbox up through the firebox and clear of the cab. I had to modify a gearbox to make it work then but the Slimliner + would now do the job without modification. As this involved having a potentially visible cut out in the boiler underside to get the motor in and the solution also shows how I hid that. I used a 10mm motor too. This is all tied up with fitting CSBs to the loco but you can ignore that bit. It also leaves the between frame area empty and rather visible if inside value gear turns you on.

Start reading here viewtopic.php?p=7814#p7814

[Will L]

P.S. The design shows a Torque Reaction link which worked, just about, but proved a bit problematic. Should you have a floating driven axle, you should do something different. However the DavidB approach, with which I would general concurs these days, (i.e. vertical tongue through a slot directly above the driven axle) is difficult to achieve when the driven axle is under the cab floor.

[davebradwell]

I'll just ask why you're contemplating using an obsolete Mashima motor when you can have one of Chris's new coreless types which are, I believe, more powerful and generally better motors all round.

Torque tab works fine a bit off-axis but gearbox restraint is generally easier if weight of motor is removed from gearbox and stuck in tender. Enables bigger motor, too. The kit torque link might be salvageable with introduction of plenty of side-play.

Please try a sensible gear ratio - say around 40:1 and you can negotiate with Chris on this. On speed step 1 my locos barely move so just how slow do you want to go? Sounds like your controller should match that. Chris only provides high gear ratios because that's what folk ask for....for some reason.

DaveB