This is in lieu of a dedicated layout thread that I'll start later explaining the historical setting and background for the layout ....
You haven't heard from me for a long time because when I've been in my new railway room, I've been working on restoring 'the layout' after the upheaval of moving to Norway and unpacking it into the new room. The prime 'soaker' of my railway room time has been the station throat point work. Most of it sits on a single 1200mm x 750mm (4' x 2'6" in old money) board that was built with a 12mm ply base on 75mm deep timber before the move. The station will sit on four such boards, the platforms on two, the point work and most of the approach curve on the other two. (The idea is to have station platform tracks that can have 8/9 Mk1s and 2 locos, I think I can just fit them in. I don't think this approach will gain much approval!). The emphasis will be on operation ....
This layout is in its third incarnation. For many years (just over 30) it sat in a large lidded space built above cupboards in my living room. In that time I managed to build the station platforms (crudely surfaced and decorated) and station pointwork. The approach was on a 180 degree curve with some point work on a drop down board that spanned the end of the room under the window and there it stopped ...
here is a view of how far I got ...
the second incarnation was in a dedicated railway room in a converted garage - loads of length (6.5 metres) but only 3.1 metres wide. A start was made on rebuilding into this space firstly a redesign of the station throat replacing the two double slips in the original design with a single slip and 'Y' point on the original boards - but then the move to Norway happened after 4.5 years - so the rebuild became morphed into preparing for the move. Those four new boards were made and a start on rebuilding the approach curve. I also built a 2.4metre / 8ft traversing fiddle yard and linked it up enough to test. Here is are two shots, one panoramic, of the layout whilst being rebuilt before the move to Norway with the 'old' station boards attached: First the original boards with newer station throat
Then a panoramic with the first new board having the approach curve built on:
and now I'm building incarnation number three in my new railway room (a garage loft that is 3.5 metres wide by 6.4 metres long) I've been re-constructing most of the station throat on the second new board. Basically trying to see if I can recycle as much of the old pointwork into the new station throat. Re-hashing the 'old' station throat points is not too difficult as they are solder built on ply sleepers (Brook-smith method) - happily that meant that I could just un-solder and disect the bits I didn't want and re-build. (the plain track is all plastic based flexi track). Perhaps I need to explain the change in layout here: The original plan (version 1) was very constrained by space. I wanted something functionally close to the track layout at Bath Green Park, ie a facing cross over in the station throat so the main 'departure' platform could be used for arrivals and especially for reversals for immediate departure of arrivng trains. I only had 3ft / 900mm for the main pointwork so I overlapped the facing crossover with the trailing exit from the carriage siding and run-round loop and the main points are only 1:6. (the main trailing crossover is 90 degrees around the approach curve, just can be made out in the panorama in photo no. 2). However, I soon found out that my track making skills were not up to making the resultant diamond crossing, especially the curved route of the facing crossover, reliable enough. In my new train room, I have more length than before, so I have moved the facing crossover out onto the approach curve, eliminating the 'diamond'. I'm still undecided about the actual placing of the platforms on the new boards but I want to get working (ie nothing falls off) pointwork and I'm happy with the design. I can also now build and test rolling stock. Here is the new throat so far:
So that is the view from above .... the underneath view and real workshoppy entry will be next ....
Baseboard work
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peterbkloss
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Baseboard work
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Last edited by peterbkloss on Fri Mar 10, 2023 12:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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peterbkloss
- Posts: 142
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Re: Baseboard work - part 2
Now to the underside - that which makes the track work
Because I've been building my layout over such a long period (40 years!) the way its built is distinctly antiquated. I've been profoundly influenced by the 'make it from scrap' approach of Rev Peter Denny and I avidly read the articles about the Buckingham GC layout construction methods published at the time I started. I've been reluctant to rip up and throw away the trackwork and operating mechanisms that I have built over that period and am recycling as much as possible of what I built before. So follows a description of my point operating and wiring 'mechanisms' (!)
I've built my own TOUs from nylon curtain rail, an idea borrowed from an article called 'point power' in MRJ 20. Being short on budget and easy to make this really appealed to me. The slider is cut from the centre section of another piece of curtain track and needs a packing strip as the upright of the inverted T of the slider is much narrower than the slot, the point blade drive tubes are 1.5mm od / 0.8mm id brass tube, and similar tube is used to bush the drive omega wire connection and for a switch drive to a Peco PL-15 (see below). A few shots below of the TOUs - the spike up at the end is to engage with Peco switch units, this one is home made as the PL-15 was second hand and the operating spike tube was missing!
Point operating wires are 0.5mm brass wire soldered to the blades and fancy bent to stop the blade rising and then bent down to sit in the TOU brass tube, not being able to source the recommended hypodermic tube, it works well enough with only a little slop . The working cycle is not intense so breakage and wear to the wire and solder joints are not a worry to me.
Of the twin switch contacts I'm using one switch to change crossing polarity, the other to feed power between the roads. The PL-15 switches sit on the underside of the TOU with spacers made of wooden strip (nowadays one would 3D print these brackets!).
I changed to using the PL-15 switches through the station throat pointwork to avoid wiring all the feeds back to the lever/switch frames, as most of the power is connected from one point to the next so the wiring flows from one point to the next, shortening the wires and hopefully reducing the internal resistance of the circuits. In the first iteration of wiring the lever / switch frame wiring was a real rats nest and had too many wires close together that made trouble-shooting really difficult. Here is a view of what it was like:
The TOUs are driven by straight 'wire in tube' (tube copper or brass 1.6mm o/d, wire 0.7 or 0.8mmm 'piano wire') with cranks made from brass strip driven from hand made combined lever frames and switch panels let into the baseboard fronts, the panels just aluminium angle with holes cut in for minature dpdt switches, originally these switched power to the track sections and point crossings. The point w-i-t driving end being a 1.5mm brass rod - In my earlier iterations of the layout this rod went through and were fixed to the switch 'handle' but slop in the w-i-t meant switch throw was insufficient to move the blades and I then bodged the wire in tube connection to the switch so the w-i-t operating wire could have bigger throw and take the switch with it at each end of the travel. Now in iteration 3 the use of the PL-15 switches under the points means that in most cases the 1.5mm rod has no switch
Some pictures of the new board's underside:
the first is the 'crossover' board that also has most of the approach curve to the station throat - the switch / lever frame is mostly empty allowing for future signals to be wired / driven
the second is the main station throat board - the big slot inthe board edge to left is for a second switch / lever frame that will control most of the signals and have push-buttons for Dingham uncoupler solenoids too
and the 'switch / lever frames' mostly empty at this stage (this one for the crossover pointwork, two point levers and two sginal switches)
Apart from the cheapness, the totally mechanical system appealed to me as a foil to my working life in computing from 1986 onwards, so I definitely did not want then and still now anything computerised - but old school logic curcuits would be fine (!) - a very personal preference.
(Since I'm using conventional DC wiring is simplified by common return, in my case the rail nearest the board front is 'common earth' throughout, the dc controllers are one side earthed to this rail and the switched feeds are connected to the other rail. In placing controller feeds I'm using the principle of driving towards the controller, in the case of my terminus (down direction) the controller feed will be from the platform end tracks, and the 'up' direction will be fed from the fiddleyard approach tracks.)
One final thing - in all this wiring, my friend has been a rechargeable battery powered 18W soldering pencil. Its ideal for soldering the delicate connections on the Peco switches and my minature cheapo dpdt switches
Because I've been building my layout over such a long period (40 years!) the way its built is distinctly antiquated. I've been profoundly influenced by the 'make it from scrap' approach of Rev Peter Denny and I avidly read the articles about the Buckingham GC layout construction methods published at the time I started. I've been reluctant to rip up and throw away the trackwork and operating mechanisms that I have built over that period and am recycling as much as possible of what I built before. So follows a description of my point operating and wiring 'mechanisms' (!)
I've built my own TOUs from nylon curtain rail, an idea borrowed from an article called 'point power' in MRJ 20. Being short on budget and easy to make this really appealed to me. The slider is cut from the centre section of another piece of curtain track and needs a packing strip as the upright of the inverted T of the slider is much narrower than the slot, the point blade drive tubes are 1.5mm od / 0.8mm id brass tube, and similar tube is used to bush the drive omega wire connection and for a switch drive to a Peco PL-15 (see below). A few shots below of the TOUs - the spike up at the end is to engage with Peco switch units, this one is home made as the PL-15 was second hand and the operating spike tube was missing!
Point operating wires are 0.5mm brass wire soldered to the blades and fancy bent to stop the blade rising and then bent down to sit in the TOU brass tube, not being able to source the recommended hypodermic tube, it works well enough with only a little slop . The working cycle is not intense so breakage and wear to the wire and solder joints are not a worry to me.
Of the twin switch contacts I'm using one switch to change crossing polarity, the other to feed power between the roads. The PL-15 switches sit on the underside of the TOU with spacers made of wooden strip (nowadays one would 3D print these brackets!).
I changed to using the PL-15 switches through the station throat pointwork to avoid wiring all the feeds back to the lever/switch frames, as most of the power is connected from one point to the next so the wiring flows from one point to the next, shortening the wires and hopefully reducing the internal resistance of the circuits. In the first iteration of wiring the lever / switch frame wiring was a real rats nest and had too many wires close together that made trouble-shooting really difficult. Here is a view of what it was like:
The TOUs are driven by straight 'wire in tube' (tube copper or brass 1.6mm o/d, wire 0.7 or 0.8mmm 'piano wire') with cranks made from brass strip driven from hand made combined lever frames and switch panels let into the baseboard fronts, the panels just aluminium angle with holes cut in for minature dpdt switches, originally these switched power to the track sections and point crossings. The point w-i-t driving end being a 1.5mm brass rod - In my earlier iterations of the layout this rod went through and were fixed to the switch 'handle' but slop in the w-i-t meant switch throw was insufficient to move the blades and I then bodged the wire in tube connection to the switch so the w-i-t operating wire could have bigger throw and take the switch with it at each end of the travel. Now in iteration 3 the use of the PL-15 switches under the points means that in most cases the 1.5mm rod has no switch
Some pictures of the new board's underside:
the first is the 'crossover' board that also has most of the approach curve to the station throat - the switch / lever frame is mostly empty allowing for future signals to be wired / driven
the second is the main station throat board - the big slot inthe board edge to left is for a second switch / lever frame that will control most of the signals and have push-buttons for Dingham uncoupler solenoids too
and the 'switch / lever frames' mostly empty at this stage (this one for the crossover pointwork, two point levers and two sginal switches)
Apart from the cheapness, the totally mechanical system appealed to me as a foil to my working life in computing from 1986 onwards, so I definitely did not want then and still now anything computerised - but old school logic curcuits would be fine (!) - a very personal preference.
(Since I'm using conventional DC wiring is simplified by common return, in my case the rail nearest the board front is 'common earth' throughout, the dc controllers are one side earthed to this rail and the switched feeds are connected to the other rail. In placing controller feeds I'm using the principle of driving towards the controller, in the case of my terminus (down direction) the controller feed will be from the platform end tracks, and the 'up' direction will be fed from the fiddleyard approach tracks.)
One final thing - in all this wiring, my friend has been a rechargeable battery powered 18W soldering pencil. Its ideal for soldering the delicate connections on the Peco switches and my minature cheapo dpdt switches
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Paul Townsend
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Re: Baseboard work - part 2
peterbkloss wrote:Now to the underside - that which makes the track work
One final thing - in all this wiring, my friend has been a rechargeable battery powered 18W soldering pencil. Its ideal for soldering the delicate connections on the Peco switches and my minature cheapo dpdt switches
solder-pen.jpg
I have had a butane pencil iron for many decades and when I can find the fuel can it works a treat but leaks a tiny bit so after a few weeks needs refilling again. Its good for big jobs where a 50 watt or more electric iron would be needed.
Recent availability of battery solder irons was new to me, so thanks for making me aware.
Google shows loads available; Amazon have at lease 10! I wouldn't touch an unbranded 8watt jobby and like the look of the 12Watt Weller but at £63 its not justified. Some claim 18Watts but have other unattractive features.
I have ordered the 12Watt one by ANBP sold by linzong5 who needs 2-3 weeks to deliver so in Far East. At £18 paid I may not get stung by HMRC and couriers fee for tax collection.....
My ancient 10Watt Antex is now late but could cope with surprisingly large wires etc.
Its easier these days to find a USB charger chez moi than a can of butane!
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peterbkloss
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Re: Baseboard work - soldering pen failure
Ha that will serve me right for boasting about my soldering pen! three weeks back it suddenly died - lights came on, no heat!
Fortunately the shop I got it from is not too far away, had it replaced. remains to see how well the replacement does (in terms of long life that is - functionally it is the same!)
Fortunately the shop I got it from is not too far away, had it replaced. remains to see how well the replacement does (in terms of long life that is - functionally it is the same!)
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peterbkloss
- Posts: 142
- Joined: Wed Dec 04, 2019 7:04 pm
Re: Baseboard work - testing
So I've been 'testing' my mongrelised pointwork, ripped up and modified from the old station throat. One issue that I've discovered is differences in sleeper/fixing thicknesses between the Brook-Smith rivet and ply pointwork and the 'fast track' plastic based plain track that I've used - the latter being around 0.25 mm thicker, so all the pointwork needs to be jacked up a little to get a smooth run where the two meet, and here I've been using thick card as packing. Plus, my rivet and ply pointwork was assembled years ago before I had any way of making a consistent rivet fixing, at the time I couldn't afford a rivet press and though I could do it by hand - well I could sort of but the rivet heads were not evenly closed so the underside of the finished pointwork ended up far from level and I hadn't appreciated the effect that would have. Plus, at the time (I started constructing these points maybe 20 years ago) I was beginning to really need glasses .... so here the packing is in strips either side of the rivet lines.
The 'testing' has been with my B-set and Jinty (with compensated bogies) and my Hymek and Class 122 single unit - with rigid power bogies, running through the track trying every move and seeing where they fall off the rails (!) and then levelling or adjusting where things have gone (or been built) out of gauge. So here is a photo of 'testing' in progress. There have been plenty of weak points to find ....
More will be in my layout thread ...
The 'testing' has been with my B-set and Jinty (with compensated bogies) and my Hymek and Class 122 single unit - with rigid power bogies, running through the track trying every move and seeing where they fall off the rails (!) and then levelling or adjusting where things have gone (or been built) out of gauge. So here is a photo of 'testing' in progress. There have been plenty of weak points to find ....
More will be in my layout thread ...
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