Wagon Workbench - 1970s - 1990s North Eastern region

[Suffolk Dave]

Lovely painting and weathering, very atmospheric.

[Triode]

Two more wagons out of the paint shop...

An ex-GWR Starfish open still with Western Region markings. This is from the Cambrian kit, with etched DC3 brake gear.

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And an ex-LNER brake van from the Hornby model. The main mods were a change of axleboxes, addition of brake yokes, etched lamp irons, replacement roof handrail from 0.3mm wire, and adding a representation of the planking inside the verandah ends. I also replaced the chimney with micro brass tube to a taller height based on photos.

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More soon.

Cheers,

Liam

[Serjt-Dave]

Excellent work there Liam. I really like the weathering on the brake van. Well Done.

All Best

Dave

[Triode]

Somehow its been nearly a year since I updated this thread, but I've been slowly progressing several wagon projects in the background.

First up is a Rapdio VIX ferry van which I've managed to spring. The method I used was as follows:

1) Remove the protruding collars on the rear surface of the W-irons and smooth the surface with fine grit emery paper.

2) Bore out the existing bearing holes to be deeper and wider; first using a 2mm drill, then 2.5mm. Depth is not critical, but care is needed not to bore all the way through to the axlebox detail. This is to give room for the new brass bearings to move up and down.

3) To prevent lateral slop and restrict the bearing carriers to move up and down only, fold four U-shaped sections of 0.45mm wire so that the distance between the inner edges of the vertical members is 5mm (i.e. the width of a Bradwell bearing carrier). Glue these to the backs of the plastic W-irons, making sure they are centered; thin superglue is ideal. Trim off any excess length of the verticals.

4) Glue in plasticard rests for the springs either side of each W-iron. At one end of the wagon there is an extra rib in the underframe which will foul the spring unless an opening is made in it.

5) Make up four Bradwell bearing carriers with brass top hat bearings and spring wire. Then file the bearing back so that the overall thickness of the carrier+bearing is about 1.2mm. This is to minimise the chance of the bearing clashing with the inside of the plastic axlebox. In this process the inner pinpoint of the bearing is lost, but I found that they still work fine with plain-ended 1mm axles of appropriate length.

6) For wheels, I used Exactoscales fitted to 1mm axles. I started with their 25mm plain ended axles, but to get a good fit I ended up filing them back to about 23.9mm.

The above steps complete the springing. To replace the plastic brake gear I used the shoes and yokes from a Wills Workbench pedestal springing kit (the castings and spring unit will go to other projects). To get everything in the right place relative to the wheels, I built up some plasticard blocks under the chassis to an appropriate height. The safety loops are the original Rapido ones removed and re-positioned.

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[Triode]

Next is a pair of Niu Models U19 snowplough kits.

Niu models kindly made up a special set of P4 compatible baseplates for me with these kits, but while they did work, I eventually opted for springing to ensure reliable running on finescale trackwork. this meant hollwing out the underside of the plough between the side skirts and leveling off. This was a time consuming task but made easier using a keyhole saw held in a pin vice.

I made up two sprung sub-chassis from Bedford W irons and Palatine Models baseplates, strengthened with brass box section. I fitted some brake gear to the rear end only as this is visible on the prototype. The rest of the brake gear I didn't bother with as its hidden by the side skirts.

Other modifications I made were:

1) Removing the raised section towards the front of the roof. This doesn't seem to be present on prototype photos, at least in the condition I'm modelling these ploughs in (BR olive green for the 1970s Darlington pair).

2) Adding rain strips above the cabin doors.

3) Replacing handrails with brass.

4) Replacing chimneys with brass micro tube.

5) Adding D plates and label clips from Rumney Models.

6) Adding the D-shaped coupling loops to the fronts of the plough blades and making up a rough approximation of the rigid bar coupling used to couple the ploughs nose-to-nose for yard movements.

7) Adding the conspicuous angle brackets between the rear of the side skirts and the body.

8) Replacing the buffers with these from Wizard Models (https://www.wizardmodels.ltd/shop/wagons/crc011/), which are the closest I was able to find with some help from the forum. With a small amount of modification I think they give a decent representation of the prototype. I made some backing plates for the buffers from plasticard.

9) Adding brass lamp irons from Rumney models.

10) Adding screw couplings from Stenson Models.

11) Adding a brace made from brass box section to prevent the side walls of the cabin bowing inwards.

It was quite a task to get to this point for both ploughs but they run reliably and I'm pleased with how they've turned out. Painting should hopefully be easier. as the 1970s livery is basic all-over green and transfers are supplied with the kit. Hopefully Niu Models will do the 80s/90s Gateshead steel ploughs next!

[Triode]

For Christmas Eve, a BR 13T wooden-bodied Medfit, built from the Slaters kit, although the only parts really used were the sides, ends and solebars! The floor was replaced with scored plasticard for the planking detail.

The model is based on a photo on Paul Bartlett's website showing an unfitted morton-braked example, although a left-over bracket from the vacuum cylinder suggests it was previously fitted: https://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/brmediumwood

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The main aftermarket parts used were:
- Bedford sprung axleguards
- 10ft Moron brakegear, brake levers and lever guards from the Society shop
- Buffers from Lanarkshire models
- Palatine models wagon baseplate from the Society shop
- Couplings from Wills Workbench (ex. Stenson Models)
- Wheels from Exactoscale via Society shop

The axleguards were first soldered to the Palatine baseplate using pins on scrap wood and a wheelbase jig to get them square. Afterwards the brakegear was soldered in around it to get a running chassis which was later joined to the body.

More to come soon.

Liam

[Mark Tatlow]

Hi Liam,

A quick observation from me on the Ferry Van.

I think you have filed too much away of the rear of the top hat bearing as I think I am seeing the rear of the inside of the bearing.

Having done this a few times myself it will badly impinge the freeness of the bearing. Easily fixed, you just need to swap the bearing.

[davebradwell]

I'd missed this post on the Ferry Van first time round too, Mark. With the spring wire soldered to the full thickness part of the plate, the wire must come very close to the wheel tyre with consequent danger of a short, especially as there's nothing to keep the ends of the wire close to the axleguard. I'd intended that it should go into the thinner tab with the rest wrapped round to give a more secure soldered joint. The long soldered joint must give quite a stiff spring, perhaps needed with this large vehicle.

DaveB

[Triode]

The VIX van runs well and negotiates my pointwork so I'm happy to leave it as is. The bearings aren't ideal, but it was a compromise I accepted to avoid cutting back into the plastic axleguards too much. If they become an issue it should be easy enough to replace them. I'll bear in mind about where to solder the spring wires in future though; I didn't realise half-etched parts were meant to take the springs.

Here is the 13t steel medium to accompany the wooden version. I built this one with clasp brakes to add a bit of variety.

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[Triode]

Here's the completed BR LMS design brake van too...

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