Digital Readouts for Myford

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stephenfreeman
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Re: Planning to buy a modellers lathe

Postby stephenfreeman » Wed Nov 17, 2021 1:52 pm

Probably not the best place to ask the question but I will anyway! Does anybody know if it is possible to source a digital readout for the cross-slide and top-slide on a Myford ML7? I ask as the dials provided on my ancient machine are a bit vague at the best of times. I try not to rely on it very closely, too much play for it to be accurate, I do have a spare mechanism, which the dial indicator screws onto but I don't think fitting it will make much difference.

nigelcliffe
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Re: Planning to buy a modellers lathe

Postby nigelcliffe » Wed Nov 17, 2021 2:18 pm

stephenfreeman wrote:Probably not the best place to ask the question but I will anyway! Does anybody know if it is possible to source a digital readout for the cross-slide and top-slide on a Myford ML7? I ask as the dials provided on my ancient machine are a bit vague at the best of times. I try not to rely on it very closely, too much play for it to be accurate, I do have a spare mechanism, which the dial indicator screws onto but I don't think fitting it will make much difference.


Arc Eurotrade or Machine DRO both sell digital slide-ways, which can be fitted to lathes and mills. Note that quite a few of such things need protecting from swarf and cutting fluids/coolants.

I have digital slides on my small milling machine, with remote display, and they do make it a lot easier to use - button to zero things, swap from metric to imperial, and big numbers to watch. The ones I have are quite old, and originally battery powered, but like a lot of cheap digital slides, they don't turn off properly and drain batteries when not in use. I converted to a mains power brick, which was a little bit of hassle as they use a split voltage arrangement: 1.5v out to the slide device, but 3v for the display.

For my lathe, I tend to only use a dial indicator on a stand when needed (I have quite a few indicators of different types/sizes, and a couple of stands which can bring the indicator into the required position).


You should be able to adjust your Myford handwheel's backlash, though I accept that eventually one runs into "its too worn" and parts need replacing.


- Nigel

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Tim V
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Re: Planning to buy a modellers lathe

Postby Tim V » Wed Nov 17, 2021 4:43 pm

New lead screws are available for the Myford, once I replaced my cross lead screw with a new one, the backlash had gone. Suggest you investigate that.
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grovenor-2685
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Re: Planning to buy a modellers lathe

Postby grovenor-2685 » Wed Nov 17, 2021 4:57 pm

stephenfreeman wrote:Probably not the best place to ask the question but I will anyway!

Its not hard to start a new topic. :) I've done it for you now.
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Keith
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nigelcliffe
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Re: Planning to buy a modellers lathe

Postby nigelcliffe » Wed Nov 17, 2021 7:33 pm

Tim V wrote:New lead screws are available for the Myford, once I replaced my cross lead screw with a new one, the backlash had gone. Suggest you investigate that.


And also worth checking if its the screw, or the nut which engages on the screw, where the wear is happening. On some machines, the nut wears rather than the screw. Or change both to be on the safe side. (Having sold the Myford I had for a while 30 years ago, I can't remember internal details ).


- Nigel

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Tim V
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Re: Digital Readouts for Myford

Postby Tim V » Wed Nov 17, 2021 8:01 pm

Looks like the prices have gone up a lot since I did mine ...
https://www.myford.co.uk/acatalog/C25.- ... 4-203.html
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Terry Bendall
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Re: Digital Readouts for Myford

Postby Terry Bendall » Thu Nov 18, 2021 8:51 am

stephenfreeman wrote:Does anybody know if it is possible to source a digital readout for the cross-slide and top-slide on a Myford ML7?


Another source is https://www.chronos.ltd.uk/product-cate ... equipment/

stephenfreeman wrote:I try not to rely on it very closely, too much play for it to be accurate,

nigelcliffe wrote:You should be able to adjust your Myford handwheel's backlash,


I have not heard of it being possible to adjust the backlash which is caused by slackness in the screw thread and/or nut. What can be adjusted on some lathes is the tightness of the slides by the use of gib strips. These are thin strips of steel between the slide way and the actual sliding mechanism that can be adjusted by small screws. Not all lathes will have these fitted but if you look at the end of the slide and can see a thin strip of steel and nuts on the side then you have one fitted. if the slide is sufficiently tight then you can take the backlash in the screw thread into account when setting a cut.

Another way of stopping the slide from moving when not required is to fit a locking screw.

Terry Bendall

nigelcliffe
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Re: Digital Readouts for Myford

Postby nigelcliffe » Thu Nov 18, 2021 11:00 am

Terry Bendall wrote:
stephenfreeman wrote:I try not to rely on it very closely, too much play for it to be accurate,

nigelcliffe wrote:You should be able to adjust your Myford handwheel's backlash,


I have not heard of it being possible to adjust the backlash which is caused by slackness in the screw thread and/or nut.


You can do a limited amount, but it won't deal with a worn thread or nut.
The handwheel has a degree of "float" in how tightly it is fixed down against the bearing it runs against. Go really tight and its impossible to move the handwheel, or its impossible to move it smoothly. But too slack is as bad. On some lathes I've used this float accounts for much of the backlash experienced - when moving the handwheel much of the "slack" movement is bringing it forwards/backwards against the bearing, rather than any slackness or wear in the thread/nut.


- Nigel

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stephenfreeman
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Re: Digital Readouts for Myford

Postby stephenfreeman » Fri Nov 19, 2021 3:48 pm

Thanks for all the suggestions. I have a brand new lead screw and bearing spare, but I don't think that is the issue. I will have a look at the gib strips, which probably do need adjusting, considering the amount of times I have had to remove the cross-slide.

I think the topslide is not too bad, probably because it hasn't had the same amount of use, removal and refitting.

Every time we move- have you ever tried to lift a fully equipped ML7? some might but I can't, everything that will come off easily does and I can just about manage it, might have to get help next time, I am not getting any younger! Though last time I did have somebody do it for me but had already removed the aforementioned bits to make it easier.

I have done chimneys and domes in the past, not too difficult once you have made a suitable mandrel to mount them on and bought the necessary cutter etc.

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Tim V
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Re: Digital Readouts for Myford

Postby Tim V » Fri Nov 19, 2021 3:55 pm

200lb without the cabinet, or 320lb with!

Problem is finding somewhere safe to put it, mine is on a concrete floor.
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Terry Bendall
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Re: Digital Readouts for Myford

Postby Terry Bendall » Sat Nov 20, 2021 9:18 am

nigelcliffe wrote:You can do a limited amount, but it won't deal with a worn thread or nut.
The handwheel has a degree of "float"


It looks like there has been a bit of confusion of terminology. :) Backlash refers to slackness in a screw thread. The "float" of the hand wheel - the amount it turns before the slide moves is different and is caused by either wear of the parts, or that the hand wheel may not be tight against the slide. Moving it closer may make things too tight as Nigel says.

On better quality lathes, and certainly I believe the Myford lathes, the various screws that move the slides, and the lead screw as well, should one be fitted, will have a acme thread form.

acme thread form.png
acme thread form.png (4.04 KiB) Viewed 487 times


In addition the nut will probably be phosphor bronze . Both of these are designed to reduce wear. My Cowells lathe, which is now about 36 years old, has vee threads but in spite of this there is little wear. Older machines that have been subject to hard use may well of course have more wear. Lubricating the thread occasionally will help as will occasional cleaning to remove any swarf.

stephenfreeman wrote: everything that will come off easily does


I can see the reason for this but as a general rule it would be best to avoid doing so. Get some help! :) If it is done, such removal should not change things excessively

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davebradwell
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Re: Digital Readouts for Myford

Postby davebradwell » Sat Nov 20, 2021 5:56 pm

Back to the issue of weight - the Myford is a relatively light lathe and perfectly safe in an upstairs room on a wooden floor - had one at my last address for years. Never had to carry it on my own, though, which must be awkward as well as very heavy for one. A surveyor said to me once that if the floor can't take that sort of loading, what are you doing standing on it?

While you're checking gib strips, don't forget the saddle. Actually, I can't understand the mystery about the source of backlash - it should be obvious. I put a new cross slide nut on my ancient machine and it was whitemetal. The new style leadscrews look very posh as they have friction dials which are nicely engraved but I don't know about compatibility.

If you have the old oil cups for the headstock bearings that leak everywhere it's worth getting new ones to avoid the line of oil up the wall and across your shirt. Do you have the proper oil gun? Is lathe properly bolted down and adjusted to turn parallel?

DaveB

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stephenfreeman
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Re: Digital Readouts for Myford

Postby stephenfreeman » Sun Nov 21, 2021 9:54 am

ack to the issue of weight - the Myford is a relatively light lathe and perfectly safe in an upstairs room on a wooden floor - had one at my last address for years. Never had to carry it on my own, though, which must be awkward as well as very heavy for one. A surveyor said to me once that if the floor can't take that sort of loading, what are you doing standing on it?

While you're checking gib strips, don't forget the saddle. Actually, I can't understand the mystery about the source of backlash - it should be obvious. I put a new cross slide nut on my ancient machine and it was whitemetal. The new style leadscrews look very posh as they have friction dials which are nicely engraved but I don't know about compatibility.

If you have the old oil cups for the headstock bearings that leak everywhere it's worth getting new ones to avoid the line of oil up the wall and across your shirt. Do you have the proper oil gun? Is lathe properly bolted down and adjusted to turn parallel?

DaveB

I know the leadscrew and bearing are unlikely to be a problem as I replaced them soon after I acquired the machine, as far as I know they were/have been always sold as a pair, at least mine were,I got a spare set just in case.

Oil cups aren't too much of a problem and I have a suitable oil gun for use on the nipples and one for filling the glass cups. I know about the bolting down etc having acquired the usual books from the outset and dial indicator.

No I think it will be the gib strips or the dial that need adjustment, it's just that I don't use it very much these days, though I will be doing some maintenance on it once the warmer weather returns, I just don't need to use it too much for trackwork and signals, plus I can I always use John Batesons cast-off lathe (now re-equipped with a control system to make it work - yes I got a spare one of those too) if it gets too cold.

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stephenfreeman
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Re: Digital Readouts for Myford

Postby stephenfreeman » Sun Nov 21, 2021 10:21 am

Memory playing up obviously. Just been and checked but the cross-slide seems fine, it's the top slide that needs attention.

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stephenfreeman
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Re: Digital Readouts for Myford

Postby stephenfreeman » Fri Nov 26, 2021 9:51 am

Having had chance to check and reset the gib strip properly the top-slide leadscrew and bearing really need replacement as that is where there is some play.

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Tim V
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Re: Digital Readouts for Myford

Postby Tim V » Fri Nov 26, 2021 1:39 pm

stephenfreeman wrote:Having had chance to check and reset the gib strip properly the top-slide leadscrew and bearing really need replacement as that is where there is some play.

Which is what I suggested in post 3!

Having said that, I did buy a DRO to fit to my Myford, but couldn't work out a safe way of fitting it, so gave up.
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