GWR engine shed exteriors

[steve howe]

Trying to solve another of the many conundrums surrounding our club Watermouth layout; the single road engine shed that the original builder started only reached a basic carcass stage (see pic below) however a lot of attention had been put into applying the raised corner stones and window reveals (unfortunately not visible on the photo).

watermouth shed crop.jpg (78.95 KiB) Viewed 4167 times

The puzzle for me is, were the walls intended to remain as smooth render, in which case what colour? Otherwise surely they would have been scribed for stonework before the building was erected? I have been through my books and so far have not found a GWR shed that was rendered, but that's not to say they didn't exist, but if anyone knows of one I'd be interested to know what the colour scheme was.

Steve

[martin goodall]

This model looks as though it was intended to be a lengthened version of the engine shed at Princetown, which was finished in rendered cement.

For photos of the shed at Princetown, see Great Western Branch Line Termini - Volume 2 by Paul Karau (OPC 1978) pages 122 to 123.

Other buildings at Princetown were also rendered in the same way.

[steve howe]

Thanks Martin,

I do have that book! will take a look.

cheers

Steve

[Jeremy Suter]

for anybody who has not seen the book or Princetown engine shed here are a couple of views.

Late 1930s

Circa 1956

[steve howe]

Thanks Jeremy,

I've been looking at the Karau book this evening and I think Princetown example could well have been the inspiration for our shed. The smoke vent protruding from the front gable (the model shed is the wrong way round in my photo!) corresponds with the notes in the book. I now need to experiment with getting a render finish!

Steve

[Neil Smith]

I now need to experiment with getting a render finish!

Hi Steve

No personal experience of this, but I have seen sandpaper used as the basis for this.

There is a model thread over on RMWeb which has just used 100 grit on a 4mm model, see https://www.rmweb.co.uk/topic/171766-ca ... nt=4896212

Personally I think a finer grit would look better - but I am basing this on the sort of wet dashing that we have on buildings here in Cumbria, where the (12mm to foot) grit size is up to 1cm long, but perhaps more typically about 0.7cm in size - and the GWR may have used a different finish.

Hope this helps!

Neil

[martin goodall]

I suggest that cement render might best be reproduced by careful painting with matt paint mixed to an appropriate hue, with any slight variegations of colour that might be detectable in photos of the prototype.

Model-makers often make the mistake of thinking in terms of some kind of rough texture. We should never forget that our models are only one-seventy-sixth of the size of the prototype, and the surface texture of walls rarely needs a 'raised' surface on our models, except for the rougher types of random rubblestone walls.

I would suggest that the lack of texturing applies with even greater force to a wall surface such as cement render.

[allanferguson]

When I used to build models for architects I would sprinkle fine sand on a first coat of paint, then overcoat it with off-white. I can't do it now -- the children have long since got too old for a sandpit!

Allan F

[jim s-w]

plasticote suede is good. its not so much about having a visible texture as such but it gives your weathering something to key into.

[martin goodall]

I agree with Jim about the need for a good key if you are going to finish the model with weathering powders. The best key is provided by a coat of dead matt varnish, such as Testor's Dulcote spray. When thoroughly dry, this will take weathering powders very well.

I confess, though, that I generally rely on matt enamels to give me the effect I want, without resort to weathering powders. Two coats of enamel, comprising different tones of the same or a similar colour, with the second coat dry-brushed over a thoroughly dry first coat usually work for me. But, as with so many things, this is very much a personal choice depending on what you find works best for you.

[steve howe]

There are a few pre-War rendered buildings round here and the finish is indeed very smooth and flat. Cement and concrete is actually a really tricky colour to get right. I tend to follow the 'Pendon' methods using watercolours, so will look at making some suitable blends. Another method I use for old plaster, cement etc. is ground up chalk pastel (which I guess is basically all weathering powders are) The Range and Hobbycraft sell sets of Inscribe pastels and also individual sticks. I make a base colour using watercolours, then apply the pastel with a soft brush and blend it around with a tissue pad or cotton bud. Its perfect for representing damp and water staining around gutters, downpipes etc.

That 1956 image of Princetown shed just epitomises the uniquely bleak character of that branchline!

Steve

[Phil O]

Most rendering in the Dartmoor area is a greyish colour, as "silver sand " is used, being a local by product of the China clay mining.

Cheers Phil.

[steve howe]

Most rendering in the Dartmoor area is a greyish colour, as "silver sand " is used, being a local by product of the China clay mining.

Cheers Phil.

Same in Cornwall, however as Watermouth is supposed to be set on the South Dorset/Devon coast, I'm guessing a yellower sand would have been used?

Steve

[Daddyman]

The council houses on Pwllheli use Plastikote (sic) Suede, and I bought some on the strength of what they achieved there, which is superb. Stock up as in the past the paint has been unavailable for long periods.

Seem to remember there's a very well-rendered ...erm... rendered building on Sidmouth too - can't remember if one of the MRJ articles detailed the method.

[BryanJohnson]

Plastikote Suede went out of production 5 years ago.

https://www.scalefour.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=77&t=5268&p=51047&hilit=suede#p51047

Bryan

[Daddyman]

...and then came and went again - most recently in 2020:
https://www.rmweb.co.uk/topic/119853-pl ... ns/page/2/