Stanier 3P - Judith Edge Kit

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PeteT
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Stanier 3P - Judith Edge Kit

Postby PeteT » Fri Mar 27, 2020 6:45 pm

Today being the start of what should be the Scalefour North weekend was at least met with the delivery of 2 sets of parts for Stanier 3P 2-6-2Ts from Judith Edge. They are an ideal candidate for 'The Socially-Distanced Challenge' and so I have reported in there. I am able to work from home, so haven't suddenly got oodles of extra spare time - however the odd extra evening, and definitely weekends, should give me time to crack on.

They will not be started immediately - I am going to concentrate on finishing the 1P detailing, and all being well decorating, first. I also plan on fettling the J39 to get it at least rolling nicely before touching this too, and from there might start progressing these in parrallel to that.

Of those allocated to Manningham and sub-shedded at Ilkley I have decided to model 40117 & 40178 as these give a good variety of detailing differences. These have been gathered from a spreadsheet shared on RMWeb & Western Thunder by Duncan Chandler, alongside photos in various books. (All small boilered, as covered by the kit. 1 large boilered one did end up at Royston, but after my timeframe, so I'm not going to divert my attention to trying to make alterations to cover one of those).

40117 - Combined done & top feed, early crest, cab doors not modified, cab tank vents, keyhole, 1 lubricator box
40178 - Separate dome, late crest* (by 12/58 at least…), cab tank vents. No keyhole, with washout plugs, 1 lubricator box

* Nominally aiming at September 1958, if anyone has a definitive answer as to when this loco received its late crest I would be grateful.

I intend to batch build to a certain extent, but also expect to finish one ahead of the other - for example proving the springing etc and pony truck arrangement would be useful to do on one rather than having to alter on two - but most of the superstructure can be progressed in parrallel.

So, these are the etches and mouldings supplied. Mouldings cover the chimney, backhead and smokebox front.
20200327_174421_small.jpg


I have a topfeed from Millholme Models, & Ultrascale wheels. I don't have motors or gearboxes in stock. I will use CSBs on them (being a standard 8' + 8'6" wheelbase there is a plot on the CLAG site to suit).

Instructions aren't supplied - there is a page of CAD drawings, and the parts list page as shown in the photo. However, there is also an excellent build topic of a 7mm build using test etches based on the 4mm version on Western Thunder, so I will probably follow this flow in the main:
https://www.westernthunder.co.uk/index. ... -6-2.8340/

So, as I said at the top, I'm not planning on starting immediately - but do have a couple of things to think about in the interim too:
- The frame spacers are set up for EM with trim options for 00. So I could use the EM ones as they are, but am more likely to make up some replacements. I will do some measuring.
- The pony trucks are set up for a fixed axle - so I want to formulate a plan to implement springing. I expect I will use the method Dave Holt applied to the Brassmasters Ivatt pony, but need to work out the right amount of vertical play to add in.
- Motor & Gearbox combination to determine (thinking of a High Level RoadRunner+)
- The part of the build which concerns me is rolling the boiler - I didn't get on well with the etch supplied for the 1P, and that was parrallel. In that case, I could chicken out and replaced it with tube - but I can't do that for a tapered boiler. An investment in some rolling bars is called for, and some testing on some scraps!
- Valvegear configuration - most likely to leave set in mid gear.

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Re: Stanier 3P - Judith Edge Kit

Postby davebradwell » Fri Mar 27, 2020 8:22 pm

No need to fret about rolling boilers, Pete. I learnt all I've ever needed to know about the subject while making a pastry cutter in school metalwork around 56 years ago. You must form the ends of the wrapper first using vice and piece of bar - even rollers don't do this bit. Despite using rollers for the school exercise, I've never got round to buying a set and just use more pieces of bar to get an even bend, this is important as any kinks or straighter bits will show later. I did a Finney V2 recently with 5/8" bar for the ends and worked the rest with 3/4 stuff. Small areas of overbending were corrected with 1" bar. The taper just meant a bit of tweaking.

Didn't Malcolm Mitchell demonstrate rolling boilers using a piece of bar and his thigh?

DaveB

DougN
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Re: Stanier 3P - Judith Edge Kit

Postby DougN » Fri Mar 27, 2020 10:27 pm

Pete, as Dave Bradwell says don't fret. Ask around in the local area group or friend as a lot of people have rolled boilers before. You might find people are willing to do it for you. Personally I managed with a length of 8mm diameter straight steel bar about400mm long on 2 layers of camping mat, with the first few. (Still use this for coach roofs)

It was a good friend who has long gone unfortunately who told me how to do it. He was shown by Martin Finney, I think, on the floor at scalefourum! The technique is place the capping Matt on the floor with the boiler flat on it and roll the bar on the brass. All the while on all fours, placing most of your weight on the bar. I found it was the trepidation that slowed me from having a go. :thumb
Doug
Still not doing enough modelling

philip-griffiths
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Re: Stanier 3P - Judith Edge Kit

Postby philip-griffiths » Fri Mar 27, 2020 10:41 pm

First thanks for this post and the info.

No79 was trialed at Tredegar in the late 30s. There are pictures of her at one station checking platform clearances. Whatever they were looking at she was not followed by any more of the class until after nationalisation when 121, 141 and 171 came to Abergavenny and Tredegar.

So one of these kits is a must. Have a NuCast kit amongst the room of kits that need to be built.

Regards.

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PeteT
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Re: Stanier 3P - Judith Edge Kit

Postby PeteT » Sat Mar 28, 2020 8:40 am

Thanks for the comments.

My school metalwork including casting a keyfob (which I've since lost), and making a trowel - which I believe is still going strong, even in the hands of my mother who is well known in the family for giving Uri Geller a run for his money!

It is good to know that it can be done without fancy gadgetry though - and as I have no other boilers in the queue which need rolling from flat it is a purchase which would take time to pay for itself - so I will have a go. I've successfully done LMS coach sides before, so just need to make sure I can start the curve from the end and take it from there. Thinking further about the 1P, I don't think it was helped by having a massive cutout on the underside to clear a motor, and a hole in the top for the done, which all worked against getting anything out of it which looked uniform.

Would you recommend annealing it first, or should NS form reasonably easily without?

The NuCast kits still seem to fetch silly money on ebay - I can appreciate that some people will prefer assembling the whitemetal body, but getting anything useful out of that design of chassis must be pretty difficult in any gauge. Each to their own.

I've just flicked back through Mike Edge's RMWeb topic and found the post which includes his motor & gearbox choice. This was a RoadRunner (not +) and Chinese N30 motor. From the photos there he has included a frame spacer just in front, and maybe my thought of the RR+ isn't required. I was thinking of allowing the gearbox to sit slightly further forward, so allow more room for the motor before the backhead - but the N30 is 10x12x20mm and there is plenty of room for that. I certainly have 1 spare Mashima 1420, the question is whether I have 2...

https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index ... nt=3818132

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BryanJohnson
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Re: Stanier 3P - Judith Edge Kit

Postby BryanJohnson » Sat Mar 28, 2020 10:38 am

Seeing Mike about progress on this kit was on my shopping list for S4N today. Now I know it's available, I'll just have to do it online instead.

Bryan

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Mike Garwood
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Re: Stanier 3P - Judith Edge Kit

Postby Mike Garwood » Sat Mar 28, 2020 10:45 am

Pete
I use the P4 spacers from Comet - have done for years - always found them to be sound, but you will have to put a/some washers on the front axle.
Might save some more time.

Mike (still waiting for his to arrive)

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Re: Stanier 3P - Judith Edge Kit

Postby davebradwell » Sat Mar 28, 2020 11:00 am

Annealing will make forming the boiler easier but it will damage more readily afterwards - the choice is yours. I've never rolled n/s so can't comment on relative difficulty. Certainly any cutouts are a disaster when trying to get a true shape and even handrail holes show signs of distortion which can be tackled with more bits of bar and lumps of wood to apply pressure. The amount of brute force involved depends mostly on the thickness of the metal, mine are full 0.3 brass and no half etch. You won't roll one of these on your thigh but you'll also struggle to kink it.

If you want a really posh drive for the 3MT then detach the motor from the gearbox and couple with short Cardan shaft. Motor is mounted to chassis on foam sticky pads and gearbox moves with the springs. It's a very quiet arrangement but takes up more length and may trash your cab - my V3 has the motor in the bunker - but it also saves agonising about whether the motor can take the endload of a worm. 30:1 ratio, certainly significantly less than 40.

DaveB

Dave Franks
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Re: Stanier 3P - Judith Edge Kit

Postby Dave Franks » Sat Mar 28, 2020 11:07 am

Hi all, yes my 3P arrived yesterday too. Very nice etches so I'm sure I'll enjoy building it. I'm glad Mike has left the purchaser to decide on how to build it as many of us have our own way of doing things, CSB, Mashima 1620, Roadrunner box, pony trucks with side control, plunger pickups etc.etc. I already have the combined dome, safefy valves, correct buffers and I'll turn up a chimney as the resin one was damaged in the post. The curly tank vents, I'll make up one as a master and stick it in the next mould I make if anyone wants some....
My layout - Wharfeside needs at least two of these locos and although I was given the test etches from the never released Alan Gibson kit when Alan sold the business I would still need the boiler and all the fittings so maybe another of Mike's kits might be purchased.
Looking forward to making a start but not before finishing other jobs lying on the dusty workbench, eh Chris.

Dave Franks.
Dave Franks

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PeteT
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Re: Stanier 3P - Judith Edge Kit

Postby PeteT » Sat Mar 28, 2020 1:08 pm

I will try without annealing initially then and see how it goes, when the time comes. I have both a camping mat and mousemat of which I think I used the underside before.

Interesting thought on the drive Dave B - another bonus of which is freeing up space where it is needed most for weight. It does seem a shame to need alterations to the cab, but with the doors modelled shut it would all very much be hidden in the bottom and underneath the crew. I'll give this some thought, and may do some initial parts of assembly before final decisions are made (though this may backfire if I put something in which gets in the way).

Neither of these two require the curly tank vents Dave F, but thanks for making this known - are you doing 40114 by any chance? That one was on my variations list - it was the vents on that one, or the late crest on 40178 to choose from.

https://www.embsayboltonabbeyrailway.or ... fws084.jpg

The Mashima 1620 stocks appear to have been exhausted - has anyone used the Canon 1620 which Wizard suggest as a replacement?

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PeteT
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Re: Stanier 3P - Judith Edge Kit

Postby PeteT » Sat Mar 28, 2020 1:22 pm

Mike Garwood wrote:Pete
I use the P4 spacers from Comet - have done for years - always found them to be sound, but you will have to put a/some washers on the front axle.


Thanks Mike, yes I did consider this. Presumably you need to washers if using High Level blocks? I'm thinking of using Comet blocks with the CSB adapters I drew up, and these will sit wider apart so shouldn't need washers.

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Mike Garwood
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Re: Stanier 3P - Judith Edge Kit

Postby Mike Garwood » Sat Mar 28, 2020 4:11 pm

PeteT wrote:
Mike Garwood wrote:Pete
I use the P4 spacers from Comet - have done for years - always found them to be sound, but you will have to put a/some washers on the front axle.


Thanks Mike, yes I did consider this. Presumably you need to washers if using High Level blocks? I'm thinking of using Comet blocks with the CSB adapters I drew up, and these will sit wider apart so shouldn't need washers.


Nice idea, like that. Yes, you'd have to put washers in for the HL blocks.

Mike

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PeteT
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Re: Stanier 3P - Judith Edge Kit

Postby PeteT » Sat Mar 28, 2020 9:00 pm

So, some research into the frame spacers:
EM spacers supplied 14.15mm wide, which go into half etched rebates of 0.4mm frames - so 14.55mm overall.
Comet P4 spacers are 14.8mm wide - which means either 15.2mm or 15.6mm overall depending whether these would be located in those half etched rebates or not.

Looking at the GA, there is 4'1.5" between frames which are 1" thick. So 4'3.5" = 17.167mm

Now the answer as to what dimension to use was not particularly answered on this topic, though Dave Holt suggested below 16mm would look odd unless prototypical.
viewtopic.php?t=6240

This will no doubt also depend in the variety of hornblocks and guides used - in that the high level block faces sit roughly in line with the outside of the frame, while the Comet/Brassmasters option sits quite proud. With this in mind (& my current plan to use the Comet blocks) I dug out my Brassmasters Rebuilt Scot kit. The instructions state minimum width outside axleboxes for P4 is 16.75mm. This is with the 0.4mm thick half of the hornblock, which has a 0.2mm boss on top of this. The wider option is the 0.6mm half of the block plus 0.2mm boss. Working from this, 16.75-((0.4+0.2)x2) = 15.55mm over frames. (I stuck with following the maths, as the frames themselves have half etches, into which hornguide plates are fitted. I'm not distracting myself with why just now). This would tie up with using the Comet spacers but not located in the Half etch slots (which could be problematic when it comes to pony truck mounts - but which could potentially be worked around by using spacers which are longer than those slots).

(incidentally on the same section of the GA is that the cylinders are at 6'8.5" centres, or 26.833mm. I measured this as 26.7mm).

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Re: Stanier 3P - Judith Edge Kit

Postby Dave Holt » Sun Mar 29, 2020 12:31 am

Peter,
I too have followed PAD's 7 mm version on Western Thunder and a rather nice model it is indeed. Lots of good info there to help you.
In deciding on frame width, it will be useful to establish the width between the bosses on your chosen wheels.
Although I have used Alan Gibson and Society frame spacers, I've also made my own from brass sheet to get the width I really wanted. It's not as laborious or difficult as you might imagine.
Regarding pony trucks, the LMS type were quite narrow over the frames due to the axleboxes and springs being outboard.
Enjoy you build(s).
Dave.

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PeteT
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Re: Stanier 3P - Judith Edge Kit

Postby PeteT » Sun Mar 29, 2020 9:28 am

Hi Dave,

Yes indeed - I had another look through over breakfast, and decided from the finished photos that Dave B's bunker motor concept is workable. There is 24mm available, so while the UJ coupler won't be fully housed within that there won't be much in the cab, and it will all be hidden down at the bottom.

I also had another look at High Level hornblocks earlier.

I fell out with fitting separate hornguides on my first chassis (which was a good learning exercise, but isn't a runner!) in that using the rods to keep the centres, while clamping them to the frames, and keeping them square (difficult to see through the clamps) and soldering (difficult to do with the clamps) all seemed like a lot of hard work. With the comet method once you know the 6mm cutout is in the right place, it is easier to let the CAD determine the jigging which is more precise than my handiwork. I know the bearing surface isn't as large on the Comet blocks though, which as well as sitting outboard of the frames made me question whether this was still the best way forward.

However, looking at the High Level CSB drilling jig - a hole is supplied which aligns with the hole in the top of the hornguide, so from jigging and drilling this the only work is to hang them square - this sounds much more managable than trying to float the whole thing into the right place.

The Ultrascale wheel bosses, when sat on my B2B gauge of 17.75mm, are 17.3mm apart.

Using Russ Elliott's formula half way down this thread viewtopic.php?t=2032

The 3P is an 8' + 8'6" wheelbase, so 66mm, so V (42" curves) = 0.51mm, V(36" curves) = 0.60mm. I don't plan on anything less than 3'6", but it would be useful to allow it to play out where 3' may be in use, brings the dimension of 16.1mm across outside faces the frames/hornblocks. (17.3 -(0.6x2))

[Just for fun, doing the maths the other way - ie prototype frame setting of 17.167mm, and B2B of 17.75mm - wheel bosses thinned to 0.1mm each side gives V of 0.1915mm. With a 32+34 = 66mm wheelbase, radius = (C*C)/8V = 9'3".]

So the widest 'easy' option is using the Comet spacers to achieve 15.6mm. So the question is whether it is worth the effort (not to mention whether I can cut them out square enough so as not to build in other issues for myself) for the sake of 0.5mm (0.25mm each side). That, or if I have something of a suitable thickness in my offcuts/frets box I could use the Comet spacers and shim them to the required width - equally on both sides so as to keep pony truck fixing locations etc central.

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Re: Stanier 3P - Judith Edge Kit

Postby davebradwell » Sun Mar 29, 2020 10:11 am

2 further variables, Pete: I've found some photos of the Comet axleboxes and there's a funny little rim on the outside which could be filed off. Also I've always considered the boss on the back of the wheel to be adjustable to control sideplay. I start with the frame spacing I want (I use 16.2 over) and work from there. Strangely, there's always less sideplay than the numbers would suggest, a sort of Angel's share.

I'll also add that I've gone off the traditional jigs for setting axleboxes from rods and will use any technique that can be dreamt up to avoid their use. Adjusting the rods later, if necessary, is much more accurate. Not easy with old kits, though.

DaveB

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Re: Stanier 3P - Judith Edge Kit

Postby davebradwell » Sun Mar 29, 2020 11:33 am

Sorry, meant to add that I fear that one day you will be mourning the lost 0.133 of cylinder centres! Crosshead clearance on leading crankpin is another area where a few of your sums would be worth doing before your start. They may well be offset slightly but something will be close.

DaveB

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PeteT
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Re: Stanier 3P - Judith Edge Kit

Postby PeteT » Sun Mar 29, 2020 12:49 pm

Hi Dave,

Yes that little rim is the 0.2mm boss (as they call it in the Scot instructions). So yes it does allow for a few different options. but I am moving more to the High Level version.

I'll have a go at cutting out some new ones. One of the issues with not being in the office is the lack of printer - the one we have is really very good, there are a few things on the 1P which I drew a CAD template for and it would show far more clearly whether it was all parrallel. A bit of patience will do the job though.

Yes my narrower measurement for the cylinders did ring alarm bells, so I will assess these properly before going too far with them.

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PeteT
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Re: Stanier 3P - Judith Edge Kit

Postby PeteT » Sun Mar 29, 2020 4:11 pm

Dave Franks wrote:The curly tank vents, I'll make up one as a master and stick it in the next mould I make if anyone wants some....


This has caused more indecision! I was happy with the choices of 40117 and 40178 as they cover good variety, but didn't require things which would be difficult to form... but that they will be available does change that logic.

40112 was definitely late crest by December 1958, and possibly May 1958 (not 100% certain). This has the curly vents, combined dome/top feed, and no keyhole.

That would mean an early crest with keyhole, without curly vents, and with separate dome - which would be 40139.

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PeteT
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Re: Stanier 3P - Judith Edge Kit

Postby PeteT » Fri Apr 10, 2020 9:24 am

davebradwell wrote:If you want a really posh drive for the 3MT then detach the motor from the gearbox and couple with short Cardan shaft. Motor is mounted to chassis on foam sticky pads and gearbox moves with the springs. It's a very quiet arrangement but takes up more length and may trash your cab - my V3 has the motor in the bunker - but it also saves agonising about whether the motor can take the endload of a worm. 30:1 ratio, certainly significantly less than 40.

DaveB


Hi Dave, I don't suppose you have any photos of your V3 setup do you, that you could share please?

I appear to have started... the forming of the footplate with 2mm and 3mm rod went surprisingly well, and I am pleased with the outcome. I thought getting to this stage would help work out the drive system once my high level order lands. The rear body fixing will need to move away (sideways, so become 2) from the central strut, but seeing as I will be making replacement frame spacers which will need drilling anyway it is no drama to do so.

20200408_201657.jpg


The part I haven't quite got my head around yet is how to minimise cab instrusion. I have some Ultrascale UJ kits, but these are reasonably chunky/long - though I suspect I could shorten them somewhat without reducing their reliability. There is something similar from Roxey.

https://www.ultrascale.uk/eshop/product ... CAT028/476

https://www.roxeymouldings.co.uk/produc ... 5mm-shaft/

North West Short line have items (pn/487-6 is for 1.5mm drive and shafts), their own website doesn't have much in the way of photos but there is one shown at blueoxtrains. This *look* smaller/shorter, but without seeing one I can't be sure. Does anyone know whether Branchlines still stock NWSL parts? (I would/could/will ask directly, but not on a BH weekend).

http://store.blueoxtrains.com/nwsl-482- ... u-joint-s/

The other alternative is the 'fuel line' and ball bearing. In theory it looks good/slimline, and if it becomes the weak point of the drive train could be a good thing for that to 'give' before anything else in a failure mode - but only as long as it isn't an inherent weak point that itself could cause issues under normal operation. I think, from memory, a 1.5mm shaft would use a 1mm ID fuel line - but recall a snooze article by Steve Duckworth which included this system - the online index tells me it will be issue 201 or 202 (and possibly feedback/comments in 205 if I'm reading the index correctly). I'll dig these out for a read later.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Miniature-Si ... U28P88t9cg

Time for a spot of weeding...

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Will L
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Re: Stanier 3P - Judith Edge Kit

Postby Will L » Fri Apr 10, 2020 10:09 am

PeteT wrote:... the forming of the footplate with 2mm and 3mm rod went surprisingly well, and I am pleased with the outcome.
I've always found that rolling curves into brass is not as difficult a job as peole fear, the real trick is being prepared to give it a go. As you have found.

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Re: Stanier 3P - Judith Edge Kit

Postby davebradwell » Fri Apr 10, 2020 12:53 pm

IMG_1117.JPG


My V3 drive shown, but unfortunately the green speaker hides some of it. You may be able to set it lower but for a number of reasons now lost, I didn't. You can just see one of the NWSL couplings bought from Dynadrive - there's another behind the gearbox I sometimes use the neater version of these but my stash is running out and I haven't found a way forwards since their shut down. Drive is in a straight line when heavy body is in place, or so I believe. Coupling should really sit closer to motor to reduce overhang and stub of rear shaft is left in place in case final tuning requires thin flywheel. Gearbox anti-rotation tab just in front of speaker. 30:1.

I won't use rubber tube for couplings - I've never seen a straight piece yet so it will always have a preferred direction, no matter how slight, which can cause cyclic lurching. A good feedback decoder might overcome this but dc or r/c folk with their basic motor drives should be wary. Nick Mitchell covers reasoning behind smooth drives in latest MRJ 278.

Suggest you do a basic drawing, perhaps freehand on squared paper - I have some pads with 5mm grid which enabled me to scheme out drives and suspension to large scale while visiting mother-in-law or such. It makes working out changes much quicker than just tacking bits on and hoping.

Your footplate looks exciting but there's no support structure. V3 had one but the Mk1 fell to bits and I ended up with it balanced on bits of scrap on a surface plate to keep all in line without anything drooping. Try rule along edge of rear section to check front is in line. Perhaps your tank assy will keep it true.

DaveB

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Wizard of the Moor
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Re: Stanier 3P - Judith Edge Kit

Postby Wizard of the Moor » Fri Apr 10, 2020 3:37 pm

Does the V3 Mk2 have a support structure, Dave?
James Dickie

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PeteT
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Re: Stanier 3P - Judith Edge Kit

Postby PeteT » Fri Apr 10, 2020 4:40 pm

Will - don't speak too soon! It was these bits which worry me, only curving through 90 degrees and having some straight overrun at each end! They are also helped my having half etched lines on the underside. These were useful for the front section, as I had the feed in sorted but feed out to fettle - so I added some solder to the 'good' part so any fettling didn't disturb the wrong bit.

20200410_172737.jpg


So the elephant is still in the room for the tapered boiler to roll, but I'll chew it one bite at a time once I'm onto it.

Thanks Dave - pretty much the setup I had come to the conclusion of using. I've decided to try one of Chris' new 1320C coreless motors (will be fine with a Zimo decoder), and my 'DC test bed' is a gaugemaster model W which will also be fine. so this itself will sit nicely in the bunker, but not with a joint alongside it. However it will all be low down in the gloom so I think a joint in the cab is far preferable to building myself issues by having both joints in the relatively short gap between the backhead and the gearbox, so it'll just have to do. The way Mike has designed it the cab floor is mounted to the chassis anyway (not that PAD followed this method with his 7mm build). If I resign myself to not hiding the UJ in the bunker too then I could also allow for a a flywheel should the need arise.

I would like to think the drive rods would mainly pull the tubing 'straight', but I agree that there would be some offset - however minimal - and while anything I build will have some tolerances it would be good to reduce the ones inherent by design. I'll probably stick to the Ultrascale ones initially. I don't think the fuel tubing method results in anything shorter, but it would be slimmer. I will try and get some of the NWSL type to see if they are smaller - but if Branchlines don't have any then it will be waiting until the virus is over as NWSL have temporarily closed in line with rules in their state.

Unfortunately my MRJ is currently marooned with my dealer!

Good point on the footplate - the valancing is helping hold it where set at the moment, and it is all nicely square - but otherwise there isnt anything to hold it that way until the tanks are fixed, and then the boiler in front of that. I don't think I'll be doing much more to it until there is superstructure tacked on.

One thing I do like about the way PAD built the 7mm version is detailing sub sections before assembling it all together, so I will be trying some sections using this method.

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Re: Stanier 3P - Judith Edge Kit

Postby Dave Franks » Tue Apr 14, 2020 9:13 am

Made a start on the Stanier 3P yesterday being a day off from the business, chassis frames assembled, Highlevel hornblocks fitted, motor configuration worked out. Enjoyed the freedom of no instructions and having to think things through.
Will post pictures later.

Dave Franks.
Dave Franks

Wharfeside project:- www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/to ... s-project/

Lanarkshire Models& Supplies
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