MR 1P 0-4-4T detailing
Re: MR 1P 0-4-4T detailing
Hello,
Not the same loco type but a good view for the detail.
trustytrev.
Not the same loco type but a good view for the detail.
trustytrev.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
-
- Posts: 472
- Joined: Tue Jan 11, 2011 9:53 pm
Re: MR 1P 0-4-4T detailing
Yes, thanks for that - I have a similar view of those on a 1P. The difficult bit is to make sure it looks good at a couple of feet away, rather than getting too caught up on the view from 2 inches away!
-
- Posts: 555
- Joined: Thu May 28, 2009 9:44 pm
Re: MR 1P 0-4-4T detailing
I had some custom etches done by Rumney for the tank straps on my BR STd and Ivatt class 2 tanks, which made up quite nicely See attached cruel enlargement).
Although this type of arrangement was common to many LMS and BR Standard tank locos, the lengths of the restraining link varies from class to class and, on taper boiler locos, along each tank. This variation makes it difficult to produce standard etched parts.
Dave.
Although this type of arrangement was common to many LMS and BR Standard tank locos, the lengths of the restraining link varies from class to class and, on taper boiler locos, along each tank. This variation makes it difficult to produce standard etched parts.
Dave.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
-
- Posts: 472
- Joined: Tue Jan 11, 2011 9:53 pm
Re: MR 1P 0-4-4T detailing
I don't think the style of rear lamp irons on the 1Ps is particularly rare, but it is not directly catered for by either the Masokits or Mainly Trains etches. However they weren't difficult to knock u. I did use some strips from the MT etch, but didn't necessarily need to.
For these to be fitted I had to fill and redrill the etched location holes in the Craftsman etch. Partly as the holes were several times larger than required, but also as 3 of the 4 were in the wrong place - top one too high, outer ones too far inboard.
Also fitted at this stage were vacuum (train and PP) and steam heat pipes. I'm based in September, so steam heat pipes would have just about been refitted from what I understand. The protection bracket above 1 of the vac pipes also needed fabricating.
Also shown are the rear spectacle plates. Surrounds are from Mainly Trains. The protection bars arent quite the right shape, and the holes would have been easier to drill in the right place with more forward planning to the need for these - but they haven't come out too badly, and hopefully I will consider such things earlier on in the project in future!
Following discussion on RMWeb on the impending Bachmann model regarding the chimney - I reassessed the Craftsman one. It looked nice, but not for the prototype I'm modelling. I ordered a few chimneys from Alan Gibson (another hit of no S4N, but the others have gone in the bits box to mature) and 4M614 looks about right with the right dimensions. Incidentally 4M615 is about the same as that provided by Craftsman.
I added an inner sleeve and central rod so that it will plug into the same hole in the top of the smokebox.
Lastly, while I have previously posted a photo before of the roof clipped in place, this is the underside with an extra bit of weight glued on.
For these to be fitted I had to fill and redrill the etched location holes in the Craftsman etch. Partly as the holes were several times larger than required, but also as 3 of the 4 were in the wrong place - top one too high, outer ones too far inboard.
Also fitted at this stage were vacuum (train and PP) and steam heat pipes. I'm based in September, so steam heat pipes would have just about been refitted from what I understand. The protection bracket above 1 of the vac pipes also needed fabricating.
Also shown are the rear spectacle plates. Surrounds are from Mainly Trains. The protection bars arent quite the right shape, and the holes would have been easier to drill in the right place with more forward planning to the need for these - but they haven't come out too badly, and hopefully I will consider such things earlier on in the project in future!
Following discussion on RMWeb on the impending Bachmann model regarding the chimney - I reassessed the Craftsman one. It looked nice, but not for the prototype I'm modelling. I ordered a few chimneys from Alan Gibson (another hit of no S4N, but the others have gone in the bits box to mature) and 4M614 looks about right with the right dimensions. Incidentally 4M615 is about the same as that provided by Craftsman.
I added an inner sleeve and central rod so that it will plug into the same hole in the top of the smokebox.
Lastly, while I have previously posted a photo before of the roof clipped in place, this is the underside with an extra bit of weight glued on.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
-
- Posts: 472
- Joined: Tue Jan 11, 2011 9:53 pm
Re: MR 1P 0-4-4T detailing
So in amongst a bit of cycling, the last few weekends have been spent trying to get the 1P ready for the paintshops. As with all good projects - a few good steps forward, before you work out something is wrong and needs a bit of backtracking.
The push pull apparatus is based on the alan Gibson white metal castings. A new wrapper has been formed, and some pipework added (control pipe yet to be added). As shown here, the control rod between the two parts will sit vertically...
The ejector uses two parts of the Craftsman white metal lump, alongside several bits of rod, tube and fuse wire. A spare Rumney models brake link is used for the diamond shaped front. All in all rather pleasing.
The following photo is with it still in separate sub sections, I am aware the pipework each side if the ejector isn't in a straight line. There is also 1 more pipe still to add.
The handbrake is a spare Dave Bradwell casting, designed to control a tender water scoop. This has a new bit of brass for its base with some rivets embossed. The front cylinder cover has been added and raised. The sides need tidying up, and more rivets adding (though I currently plan to do this with archers after priming). I haven't specifically taken photos of either of these bits, but the covers can be seen in corners of others.
Returning to the push pull equipment, the lower cylinder is offset out from the outside of the splashers on 58066. This doesn't necessarily seem to be the location on all 1Ps, some manage to line up with the splasher - and it doesn't appear to be as clear cut as a 1833/2028 difference. Having got the location looking right in relation to the splasher, the control rod will be nothing like vertical... so back to the drawings to assess what is out.
This determined that the main splashers should measure 22.66mm, and 26.66mm over the coupling rod boss clearance section. I had used the Craftsman castings as is, lining them up with the inside of the footplate. They are 2 of the 3 castings I have used as supplied (the third being the dome) so I should have known something may have been amiss at the time. These measure 26.7mm over main and 30mm over rod bosses.
I recall wondering at the time whether the white metal castings may be too thick, but taking a look at the rod boss section decided it looked like a reasonable chunk of hard work to do anything else, so used them as is, and moved on. Note to self, this has come back to bite!
Options I'll be mulling over this week:
1. Leave the splashers as they are, move the lower push-pull cylinder in line with control valve. Wrong for this 1P, though others did have that setup. Obviously the quickest route forward...
edit - 1.5! remove some from rear of splashers, and see if they will sit inboard without clouting the wheels...
2. Assess Brassmasters 4F splashers I have lurking. I used the 3F ones with success, they look the part, and all being 5'3" wheels should nominally be the same - yet 3Fs and 4Fs don't have the rod boss section, so presumably the footplate is higher on those so as not to need that section, and so the splashers will be smaller. If they are ok, these could potentially reuse part of the castings for that front section.
3. As 2, but with scratch built main splashers if the Brassmasters ones aren't quite right. Beading could be fun...
4. As 3, but etched - which would make forming a uniform curve easier, and make the beading easier.
Any replacement is likely to still be marginally over scale, but should be close enough to allow the location of the lower cylinder to look right, at the same time as the control rod being vertical.
All jolly good fun...
The push pull apparatus is based on the alan Gibson white metal castings. A new wrapper has been formed, and some pipework added (control pipe yet to be added). As shown here, the control rod between the two parts will sit vertically...
The ejector uses two parts of the Craftsman white metal lump, alongside several bits of rod, tube and fuse wire. A spare Rumney models brake link is used for the diamond shaped front. All in all rather pleasing.
The following photo is with it still in separate sub sections, I am aware the pipework each side if the ejector isn't in a straight line. There is also 1 more pipe still to add.
The handbrake is a spare Dave Bradwell casting, designed to control a tender water scoop. This has a new bit of brass for its base with some rivets embossed. The front cylinder cover has been added and raised. The sides need tidying up, and more rivets adding (though I currently plan to do this with archers after priming). I haven't specifically taken photos of either of these bits, but the covers can be seen in corners of others.
Returning to the push pull equipment, the lower cylinder is offset out from the outside of the splashers on 58066. This doesn't necessarily seem to be the location on all 1Ps, some manage to line up with the splasher - and it doesn't appear to be as clear cut as a 1833/2028 difference. Having got the location looking right in relation to the splasher, the control rod will be nothing like vertical... so back to the drawings to assess what is out.
This determined that the main splashers should measure 22.66mm, and 26.66mm over the coupling rod boss clearance section. I had used the Craftsman castings as is, lining them up with the inside of the footplate. They are 2 of the 3 castings I have used as supplied (the third being the dome) so I should have known something may have been amiss at the time. These measure 26.7mm over main and 30mm over rod bosses.
I recall wondering at the time whether the white metal castings may be too thick, but taking a look at the rod boss section decided it looked like a reasonable chunk of hard work to do anything else, so used them as is, and moved on. Note to self, this has come back to bite!
Options I'll be mulling over this week:
1. Leave the splashers as they are, move the lower push-pull cylinder in line with control valve. Wrong for this 1P, though others did have that setup. Obviously the quickest route forward...
edit - 1.5! remove some from rear of splashers, and see if they will sit inboard without clouting the wheels...
2. Assess Brassmasters 4F splashers I have lurking. I used the 3F ones with success, they look the part, and all being 5'3" wheels should nominally be the same - yet 3Fs and 4Fs don't have the rod boss section, so presumably the footplate is higher on those so as not to need that section, and so the splashers will be smaller. If they are ok, these could potentially reuse part of the castings for that front section.
3. As 2, but with scratch built main splashers if the Brassmasters ones aren't quite right. Beading could be fun...
4. As 3, but etched - which would make forming a uniform curve easier, and make the beading easier.
Any replacement is likely to still be marginally over scale, but should be close enough to allow the location of the lower cylinder to look right, at the same time as the control rod being vertical.
All jolly good fun...
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
-
- Posts: 472
- Joined: Tue Jan 11, 2011 9:53 pm
Re: MR 1P 0-4-4T detailing
Looking at the more closely, option 1.5 should be a goer. I lined up the inner edge with the inside edge of the foot plate, but that does leave the etched footplate underhanging. Hopefully they will let go without dislodging too much else.
On the bright side, this will allow me to make a neater, yet still robust, attachment for the oil pots on the tops - clouds & linings.
On the bright side, this will allow me to make a neater, yet still robust, attachment for the oil pots on the tops - clouds & linings.
-
- Posts: 472
- Joined: Tue Jan 11, 2011 9:53 pm
Re: MR 1P 0-4-4T detailing
On the home straight - splashers removed, narrowed, and reseated - and all other bits and bobs now slotting in around them.
The only bits I haven't fully got my head around are a few extras on the bufferbeam. They are evidently push pull (ok, motor train) related - but the 1P appears to be a top and bottom bracket with an unrelated round grab handle - while the Ivatts had the same too brackets, but no handle, and some electrical wiring. Is what looks like a handle on the 1P the same wiring loom as the Ivatt, just twiddled up? The coaches quite clearly* have a 2nd set of electrical cables which duplicates the standard set on the end of LMS coaches - and the lower bufferbeam brackets does look abut the same as a holster, but what I don't get is that the coaches have an obvious plug sat in the holster when not loomed between carriages. These look empty, unless that is to do with the angle?
1P
Ivatt
I presume it is a direct mirror on the rear bufferbeam? It looks like it, but the photos I have are from angles where obstructions like buffers get in the way so only 99% sure.
I think I mainly understand what is going on (just about enough to model it) - but not 100 % (ie why the holster looks empty).
edited to add - the clearly* is due to having a few photos at Oxenhope of the mid day train, which was generally Fairburn 2-6-4 hauled and in none PP mode, while the push pull set of the day trundled down to Bradford FS and back to charge the batteries. These photos are part way through run round, so show the end of the coach quite well.
The only bits I haven't fully got my head around are a few extras on the bufferbeam. They are evidently push pull (ok, motor train) related - but the 1P appears to be a top and bottom bracket with an unrelated round grab handle - while the Ivatts had the same too brackets, but no handle, and some electrical wiring. Is what looks like a handle on the 1P the same wiring loom as the Ivatt, just twiddled up? The coaches quite clearly* have a 2nd set of electrical cables which duplicates the standard set on the end of LMS coaches - and the lower bufferbeam brackets does look abut the same as a holster, but what I don't get is that the coaches have an obvious plug sat in the holster when not loomed between carriages. These look empty, unless that is to do with the angle?
1P
Ivatt
I presume it is a direct mirror on the rear bufferbeam? It looks like it, but the photos I have are from angles where obstructions like buffers get in the way so only 99% sure.
I think I mainly understand what is going on (just about enough to model it) - but not 100 % (ie why the holster looks empty).
edited to add - the clearly* is due to having a few photos at Oxenhope of the mid day train, which was generally Fairburn 2-6-4 hauled and in none PP mode, while the push pull set of the day trundled down to Bradford FS and back to charge the batteries. These photos are part way through run round, so show the end of the coach quite well.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
-
- Posts: 555
- Joined: Thu May 28, 2009 9:44 pm
Re: MR 1P 0-4-4T detailing
Peter,
I'm not an expert on the 1 P's and the photo is rather grainy, but to me it looks like the cable is clipped to the buffer beam blow and level with the RH end of the upper connector block bracket. It then bulges out from the beam and snakes right-left to the plug which I think is just visible as a dark area in the holster. In other words, exactly as on the Ivatt 2-6-2.
I can't find any decent photos of the back of an Ivatt tank, but the Fowler and BR Standard tanks were definitely symmetrical, front and back, in terms of the electrical connection (left side on loco, or right as you look at it).
Dave.
I'm not an expert on the 1 P's and the photo is rather grainy, but to me it looks like the cable is clipped to the buffer beam blow and level with the RH end of the upper connector block bracket. It then bulges out from the beam and snakes right-left to the plug which I think is just visible as a dark area in the holster. In other words, exactly as on the Ivatt 2-6-2.
I can't find any decent photos of the back of an Ivatt tank, but the Fowler and BR Standard tanks were definitely symmetrical, front and back, in terms of the electrical connection (left side on loco, or right as you look at it).
Dave.
-
- Posts: 44
- Joined: Thu Mar 05, 2015 4:18 pm
Re: MR 1P 0-4-4T detailing
The extra electrics, probably also including the holster, are for the engine bell communication from the driving trailer which replaced a Heath-Robinson mechanical arrangement of wires which on a 1P had a guide tube on top of the cab. Many coaches acquired these extra cable connections which were similar, if not identical to the electric lighting control cables, so the coaches had two in each side. The extra set were labelled "ENGINE BELL" on the coaches and were painted a different colour (red? - I haven't seen a colour photo**). Whilst I said that many coaches acquired them (don't know dates), equally, many did not. Furthermore, I don't know how many locos had the bell arrangement.
** Just found a photo on p110 of Vol 1 of Bradford's Railways in Colour and yes, the cylindrical boxes mounted on the coach end were red - the cables were not. The connectors are not visible - they're inside the holsters - but I would guess that they too were red.
Phil Tattershall
** Just found a photo on p110 of Vol 1 of Bradford's Railways in Colour and yes, the cylindrical boxes mounted on the coach end were red - the cables were not. The connectors are not visible - they're inside the holsters - but I would guess that they too were red.
Phil Tattershall
-
- Posts: 472
- Joined: Tue Jan 11, 2011 9:53 pm
Re: MR 1P 0-4-4T detailing
Thanks both, that helps explain what is going on in the murk - and shouldn't be too hard to reproduce.
Phil, that book is one not (yet) in my library - but I did buy this photo from colourrail - is it the same one by any chance?
https://colourrail.co.uk/api/image/medi ... e7207e5d23
(hopefully that link works, otherwise searching colourrail for Oxenhope should bring it up).
It isn't particularly clear in the small thumbnail, but does agree with what you describe colour wise - though I don't recall any labelling alongside. I'll go and find it...
Phil, that book is one not (yet) in my library - but I did buy this photo from colourrail - is it the same one by any chance?
https://colourrail.co.uk/api/image/medi ... e7207e5d23
(hopefully that link works, otherwise searching colourrail for Oxenhope should bring it up).
It isn't particularly clear in the small thumbnail, but does agree with what you describe colour wise - though I don't recall any labelling alongside. I'll go and find it...
-
- Posts: 44
- Joined: Thu Mar 05, 2015 4:18 pm
Re: MR 1P 0-4-4T detailing
Yep, that's the one. There's also a cylinder on the coach high up to the lhs of the gangway - I've no idea what it was for.
Phil
Phil
-
- Posts: 472
- Joined: Tue Jan 11, 2011 9:53 pm
Re: MR 1P 0-4-4T detailing
I believe the cylinder is a fire extinguisher, fitted in the mid 1950s. These were mentioned on the RMWeb thread covering the Bachmann portholes (which include them):
https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index ... le-review/
The question raised on the RMW thread was whether they should have them in crimson and cream, as per the original set of Bachmann releases. It doesn't look like that was categorically answered - nor whether it was a univeral fitment (or how quickly applied).
Pete
edited to add, the only other useful google link from 'LMS coach fire extinguisher' brings up another RMW thread started by Morgan. On there Larry assumes them to be coincidental with the higher end step removal, and put it at 60-65 - but that is wrong from this evidence on the Worth Valley.
https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index ... t-is-this/
https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index ... le-review/
The question raised on the RMW thread was whether they should have them in crimson and cream, as per the original set of Bachmann releases. It doesn't look like that was categorically answered - nor whether it was a univeral fitment (or how quickly applied).
Pete
edited to add, the only other useful google link from 'LMS coach fire extinguisher' brings up another RMW thread started by Morgan. On there Larry assumes them to be coincidental with the higher end step removal, and put it at 60-65 - but that is wrong from this evidence on the Worth Valley.
https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index ... t-is-this/
-
- Posts: 181
- Joined: Wed Jul 23, 2008 7:45 pm
Re: MR 1P 0-4-4T detailing
If it helps anyone, the Oxenhope photo is also included on page 56 of Ian Allan's BR Steam in Colour 1948-1968 book by Colin Boocock.
-
- Posts: 44
- Joined: Thu Mar 05, 2015 4:18 pm
Re: MR 1P 0-4-4T detailing
PeteT wrote:I believe the cylinder is a fire extinguisher, fitted in the mid 1950s.
On there Larry assumes them to be coincidental with the higher end step removal, and put it at 60-65 - but that is wrong from this evidence on the Worth Valley.
https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index ... t-is-this/
The two D1999 coaches were motor fitted at Wolverton with a date (presumably into service) of 4 Feb 1956 so that may be the date of fire extinguisher installation.
-
- Posts: 472
- Joined: Tue Jan 11, 2011 9:53 pm
Re: MR 1P 0-4-4T detailing
It was a bit of dilemma which fragile bits are going to be more robust (or less likely to be damaged or desoldered) - but I chose to do the bufferbeam detailing before the lamp irons. This will make cleaning up after the lamp irons trickier, but hopefully not impossible.
Some 1mm strip, 5A fuse wire, 10A fuse wire, and 0.7/0.5mm tubing has most of the push pull equipment added to the front bufferbeam. I am thinking of just using the comet casting for the holster and plug. What was confusing me in a lot of photos was that the holsters evidently werent a very tight fit, so a lot of the time the wire goes through it with the plug dangling out of the bottom (or having not been put back in the holster in the first place).
So, a bit more cleaning up, add the plug - and then repeat for the rear bufferbeam...
Some 1mm strip, 5A fuse wire, 10A fuse wire, and 0.7/0.5mm tubing has most of the push pull equipment added to the front bufferbeam. I am thinking of just using the comet casting for the holster and plug. What was confusing me in a lot of photos was that the holsters evidently werent a very tight fit, so a lot of the time the wire goes through it with the plug dangling out of the bottom (or having not been put back in the holster in the first place).
So, a bit more cleaning up, add the plug - and then repeat for the rear bufferbeam...
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
-
- Posts: 643
- Joined: Tue Oct 02, 2012 3:31 pm
Re: MR 1P 0-4-4T detailing
Looking good Pate, I've got all this to look forwards too.
Keep up the progress but above all Keep Safe.
Dave
Keep up the progress but above all Keep Safe.
Dave
-
- Forum Team
- Posts: 3044
- Joined: Sun Jul 20, 2008 6:00 pm
Re: MR 1P 0-4-4T detailing
PeteT wrote:It was a bit of dilemma which fragile bits are going to be more robust (or less likely to be damaged or desoldered) - but I chose to do the bufferbeam detailing before the lamp irons. This will make cleaning up after the lamp irons trickier, but hopefully not impossible.
I had exactly the same dilemma with my 48xx body.
In my case, the lamp irons went on first!
All glued, as soldering to a plastic body never ends well. But I'd much rather the whole thing was in brass. This messing around with RTR bodies isn't really to my tatses.
Cheers
Paul
Beware of Trains - occasional modelling in progress!
www.5522models.co.uk
www.5522models.co.uk
-
- Posts: 472
- Joined: Tue Jan 11, 2011 9:53 pm
Re: MR 1P 0-4-4T detailing
Thanks both,
Funnily enough Paul that thought crossed my mind, in that it has all gone together nicely here - but may be a different story when I get to duplicating it for the Ivatt 2MT! Anyway, with that thought but back in the problem space of future me, I have been making progress with the set for the back.
I have also decided (ish) to make the holster. I have some 2x2mm brass section, which I have for LMS coach hooded vents as per an MJT article - filing down to 2x1mm U section. I did the same for this and it looks right, so now just need to fabricate the plug.
I went with the 2x1 as that sizes up about the same as the Comet casting. However, it blatantly isnt the same size as the hooded vents:
https://www.svrwiki.com/LMS_2886_Six-wh ... ater_32919)#/media/File:LMS_2886_20150322.jpg
Maybe 1.5mm would have been better - but I don't have any - so will probably go with the 2mm, but will reassess against the casting - that would be easier to fettle down in size if required.
Funnily enough Paul that thought crossed my mind, in that it has all gone together nicely here - but may be a different story when I get to duplicating it for the Ivatt 2MT! Anyway, with that thought but back in the problem space of future me, I have been making progress with the set for the back.
I have also decided (ish) to make the holster. I have some 2x2mm brass section, which I have for LMS coach hooded vents as per an MJT article - filing down to 2x1mm U section. I did the same for this and it looks right, so now just need to fabricate the plug.
I went with the 2x1 as that sizes up about the same as the Comet casting. However, it blatantly isnt the same size as the hooded vents:
https://www.svrwiki.com/LMS_2886_Six-wh ... ater_32919)#/media/File:LMS_2886_20150322.jpg
Maybe 1.5mm would have been better - but I don't have any - so will probably go with the 2mm, but will reassess against the casting - that would be easier to fettle down in size if required.
-
- Posts: 472
- Joined: Tue Jan 11, 2011 9:53 pm
Re: MR 1P 0-4-4T detailing
The AGM gave a good deadline opportunity to get this finished (along with the Bachmann version test build) - and aside from fitting the sand pipes, and making the return spring for the brake gear (thanks to (Serjt-) Dave for the reminder on these!) this was achieved, and since then thoe bits have been completed too. This is now classed as done! The cab internals could be a bit more refined, but its mostly hidden from view by the crew and roof.
Transfers are all fox.
From here it is back to the J39, which I had set myself the target of Scaleforum. This was a fairly arbritrary stake in the ground, but would have been a good opportunity to show the result to Mr Bradwell - I was disappointed to see this withdrawal from the line up, but will still try and meet this target. It has been going on long enough and is onto the easy (/cosmetic) bits.
Transfers are all fox.
From here it is back to the J39, which I had set myself the target of Scaleforum. This was a fairly arbritrary stake in the ground, but would have been a good opportunity to show the result to Mr Bradwell - I was disappointed to see this withdrawal from the line up, but will still try and meet this target. It has been going on long enough and is onto the easy (/cosmetic) bits.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
-
- Posts: 643
- Joined: Tue Oct 02, 2012 3:31 pm
Re: MR 1P 0-4-4T detailing
Hi Pete. 58066 has turned out very well. Don't blame me for the brake return springs. It was John P who told me about them in the first place. LOL. My 58047 is all stripped down and waiting it's turn in the paintshop.
All Best
Dave
All Best
Dave
-
- Posts: 95
- Joined: Sun Dec 17, 2017 8:49 pm
Re: MR 1P 0-4-4T detailing
Thanks for sharing in one place.
I have one that will need a lot more detailing 57073
One that needs rewheeling [Bachmann] 57072
And what you have posted will enable me to complete 57086
I have one that will need a lot more detailing 57073
One that needs rewheeling [Bachmann] 57072
And what you have posted will enable me to complete 57086
-
- Posts: 825
- Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2011 11:09 pm
Re: MR 1P 0-4-4T detailing
RAO wrote:I have one that will need a lot more detailing 57073
...
And what you have posted will enable me to complete 57086
I suspect that might be a typo for 58086 (and 58073), as these are from the Somerset & Dorset's stud in early Nationalisation days.
The problem is that both 58073 and 58086 are both 2228 class engines, rather than the 1833 class of which 58072 is a representative. There are quite a lot of differences between the two classes, the 2228s having deeper tanks, higher pitched boilers and shorter length cabs than the 1833s. The cab differences are accentuated by the increase in cab height resulting from re-boilering with Belpaire boilers. When I attempted a scratch build of 58086 I was not aware of these differences and ended up with a mongrel locomotive in appearance, having features derived from both classes, and for my money neither the Craftsman nor the Bachmann versions of Johnson's bogie tanks can be made into satisfactory representations of the more massive 2228s without substantial alteration.
58073 is a particularly distinctive locomotive, being one of the batch of 5 condenser-fitted machines built by Dübs in 1895 and one of the three from this batch refitted with condensing equipment in 1928 following its removal in 1902 - would be really good to see a model of this locomotive that accurately captures the 2228 'vibe'!
My unsatisfactory scratchbuild of 58086 has gone back to the shops for a complete strip down and rebuild using a number of custom etched components in an attempt to correct the errors of the original.
(Edited to correct emphasis)
Last edited by John Palmer on Wed Jul 06, 2022 2:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.
-
- Posts: 377
- Joined: Sun Jun 17, 2018 8:26 am
Re: MR 1P 0-4-4T detailing
It is surprising just how many "classes" of loco exist which, on close examination, actually break down into a number of sub-classes which appear much the same to the unquestioning eye but which, from a modelling point of view, are almost totally different. Sometimes, differences in weights or dimensions (or even diagram numbers) ring warning bells, but sometimes it is just down to careful examination of photographs and that growing nagging feeling that something, somewhere, isn't quite right.
-
- Posts: 142
- Joined: Wed Dec 04, 2019 7:04 pm
Re: MR 1P 0-4-4T detailing
So, can anyone tell me where to find a drawing of the 2228 class since I would like to model 58086 myself? (that doesn't mean buying an entire book, and being in Norway that would be rather tricky ... or at least the dimensions that are different from the earlier 1833 version (tank height, boiler pitch). At least there is no shortage of photos of the S7DJR survivors ...
kind regards, Peter
kind regards, Peter
-
- Posts: 825
- Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2011 11:09 pm
Re: MR 1P 0-4-4T detailing
I really don't think there's a substitute for the GA drawings set out in 'Midland Engines No.1 1833 and 2228 Class Bogie Passenger Tanks', published by Wild Swan. However, the attached .pdf drawing may be of some assistance in illustrating the differences between these two classes. It's derived from my rough and ready drawings for re-design of my 2228 class to overcome the deficiencies in my original build, but with dimensions derived from the GA drawings in the Wild Swan profile. The 2228s are always distinguishable from earlier engines when seen from the front by reason of the smokebox door locking ring being totally exposed - on earlier engines it is partially concealed by the casing over the valve chest. But the differences really become apparent in the area of the cab, as I think the attached drawings show.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: ClaudeBot and 0 guests