GWR 59' Railmotor Body Instructions

Jeremy Suter
Posts: 232
Joined: Tue Apr 14, 2009 6:56 pm

GWR 59' Railmotor Body Instructions

Postby Jeremy Suter » Thu Aug 13, 2020 10:18 pm

This follows on from the Underframe Kit Instructions.

It is not a beginners kit, so please read all instructions carefully before starting.

I will be doing it in four parts, The main body, Interior, Roof. Glazing and Handrails. Which I will do after painting.

Part 1 The Main Body


Starting in the middle. Make up the internal doors they are handed left and right, backs and fronts so they need to be soldered together using a piece of .45mm wire to help locate them together through the door handle hole. When they are soldered together the wire can be cut leaving a small piece to represent the handle. There should be 5 doors.


The partitions are made of two pieces soldered either side of the doors, one with a cut out in the side and one without. They also need to be matched with each other. Two with holes in each side, one with two slots in the upper section, and two plain.


The ends are next. They need scribing along the half etch line on the inner side with the back of a knife to weaken the fold line so that it does not distort the window frame when folding.


They should be folded to the shape of the former.


The inner sections need the same scribing doing as the fold line is very close to the window glazing half etch, possibly cutting almost through at the top. Then fold to match the outer ends.


Before the two end parts are soldered together chamfer the inner pieces to make the side perpendicular to the front.


The two pieces that make up the end should be soldered together using the grab handle holes to match them up there should be a .6mm gap at the bottom to allow the former and sides .The grab handles can be soldered in permanently.


Make sure the slots for the glazing are free from solder so that the glazing can be slotted in later.

With the ends soldered together the former should be soldered to the bottom of the inner piece. There should be a .3mm gap below the former this is to allow it to fit inside the side.


Lastly on the ends, the window frames can be soldered in place best done by tinning first to avoid over doing the solder and filling the glazing gap.


Jeremy Suter
Posts: 232
Joined: Tue Apr 14, 2009 6:56 pm

Re: GWR 59' Railmotor Body Instructions

Postby Jeremy Suter » Fri Aug 14, 2020 9:12 pm

Moving onto the sides.
The sides should be cut out but leave in the strengthening bars along the top for now.
Fit the window frames in the appropriate places short, medium and long as with the ends best tinned first to keep the other side clear of solder.


Once the widow frames are in, turn the side over.
The door bangs will need pressing out with a sharp point, they are half etch spots on the back of the lower middle bead for the luggage compartment.
As with the ends the half etch fold at the bottom will need scribing with the back of a knife along the half etch fold line at the bottom. This should make it easier to fold without damaging the bead on the front. Then the top half will need folding over by 180degrees it will be best to tin it first I only did one side but both would be better. When you fold it over the strengthening bars should be folded out of the way so they can be removed later. Also check before soldering that the inner partitions will fit in the slots. File to fit if required.
I have used a resistance soldering iron to solder the sides together and found it worked without any distortion as it did when I built the original test etch with my Antex iron. When done make sure the glazing slots are clear from solder and remove the strengthening pieces.


Now the sides are all soldered flat the solbar needs to be formed I used a 3/8th inch bar screwed to a piece square section and then the side clamped between them and then in the vice to hold the middle and pulled round with a steel rule I used the half etch line at the base as a datum line against the square, but the bar was not much below the folded section. the bend should be in the centre of the lower panel do not over bend I did slightly.


Now clamp the side in bending bars and fold over the half etch at the bottom. The top should be perpendicular to the fold.


The sides now just need the door hinges fitting into the holes for the luggage compartment and the driver door.


Now the main body can be put together, identify which partition is which. The one with the slots at the top is for the driver end. The two with holes in each side are for the passenger entrance and the plain ones are for the luggage compartment.
Using the partitions put the body together the full side of the partition should fit in the slots provided, that side is always at the driver end except the passenger door ones which are handed. The floor pieces should fit in the gaps if unsure which way round they go.


The 12Ba mounting nuts for the underframe should now be added to the holes at each end of the body ( I had to re-drill them on this etch but have altered the production drawing.) I used the underframe to locate them in the right place before soldering to the body. I also found the buffer beams are too long on the underframe and need pairing back.


The fronts should now be added, The front former should fit over the fold in the side and the ends should fit into the recess in the side some filing may be required to make them fit snugly the high windows end goes at the boiler end the standard windows at the drivers end.


At the motor end there are two inner frames which fit in the doorway. Fit the one without holes in on the boiler side recess first with the slot facing the front. The one with holes in needs to go in the recess on the other side of the door with the slot facing the passengers but the base will need snipping out to go around the nuts that holds the underframe. but do not solder this side in yet.


The motor end doors should be made next by folding over the inner window frame and soldering to the back of the door.


Now fit the doors into the slots in the inner frame. The handles on both sides are toward the front of as they are sliding doors on the real thing. The front frame can be soldered when happy with the fit.


Do the same with the centre doors as with the engine compartment doors. Two types are supplied single window for the Diagram Q1 Swindon Built vehicles and double window for the Gloucester Built Diagram Q.


Now the sliding window in the boiler compartment should be fitted there is an inner frame which the inner sliding window fits in but will not hold it if you want the window to slide (I was going to make it sliding but forgot when doing the final production etch.) The Water intake door can be soldered on the panel next to the window there are two types one with a cross on it and one without check photographs of the one you are modelling to get the correct door.

IMG_5655 (2).JPG

Moving back to the ends. The steps and lamp irons should be fitted to the positions shown in the photo, some vehicles had two lamp irons one below the one in the picture.


This finishes the body section there are some more parts left on the etch for the interior.

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Mark Tatlow
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Joined: Tue Dec 02, 2008 11:24 pm

Re: GWR 59' Railmotor Body Instructions

Postby Mark Tatlow » Sat Aug 15, 2020 7:02 pm

I do like your tool for forming tumble homes Jeremy, we will be making one of those tomorrow!
Mark Tatlow

Jeremy Suter
Posts: 232
Joined: Tue Apr 14, 2009 6:56 pm

Re: GWR 59' Railmotor Body Instructions

Postby Jeremy Suter » Tue Dec 29, 2020 9:23 pm

Moving onto the Interior

Some of the parts are on the body etch and others are on the roof etch.


First of all make sure the floors fit in there respective places, file to length if necessary.
Now starting with the low partitions, they need to be laminated back to back so there is planking on both sides, one should be deeper than the other so if fits in the slot in the floor plate.

The deeper length fits on the side with the bench seat.

Now the chairs can be made, they just fold up to produce the seat. The seat back does NOT want to be 90 degrees to the base and
there should be 2 half etch slots in the underneath.

Once the seat is made add the legs. Carefully folding them up from the base frame and solder to the slots in the bottom of the seat.

When all the seats are made up they can be soldered to the floors. They do not all have to point the same way as they could have the backs pushed across when going the other direction.

The next job is to make up the bench seats, these have 4 sets of legs on each side.

First of all the leg sets. As these are 180 degree bends fold backwards, solder together and file off the fold line.

When all the leg sets are made the seat should be folded to form a zig zag and the centre leg sets pushed through the slots in the seat. They should fit flush at the top, and against the knee.

The end legs should now be added and seat attached to the floor.

The seated sections can be put to one side now. The cushions will need to be added to the by directional seats. These will be a 3d print.

Moving onto the coal bunkers there are two types as these were altered during there lifetime from short with no coal bars to tall with 2,3 or 4 rails so check your prototype for correct version some short bunkers had rails aswell
It is the same for both sizes.
Fold the back part to match the coach end making sure the holes match the grab handle holes then roll the front but fold the ends to just under 90 degrees so they fit in the slots in the bunker back part. THIS IS A REVERSE FOLD.

Solder front to back.

I have had to file the base and side to fit inside the body and over the nuts that fit the body to the underframe but will alter the tool before etching again. now the coal door should be added.

I folded the sides up to look like runners but its not important.

If modelling the version with coal rails, drill out the holes in the 4 legs which should be added to the bunker. 2 in the slots where we folded it to form the shape, and 2 inside the corners where the front meets the back.


The rails should be added using .4mm wire I have not folded it just pulled them through producing a natural arc and soldered at the ends only.

Check that it fits in position you will have to squeeze it a little to slot between the front and the roof support on the door frame.
Remove and put to one side for painting

The Boiler Section has to go around the pickups so it has been raised a little. The floor base has a large hole to allow this and the
raised floor folds over and fits in the slots provided. Solder in place.

The boiler itself should be rolled I just bent it round a 12mm bar carefully and the two tabs should fit in the slot and soldered in place. I pulled the slots in a bit so the tabs pushed through easily. The boiler should be slightly tapered wider at the top than the bottom.

The disc should be fitted in the top with it flush at the front and slightly lower at the back then soldered in place and the excess at the back filed off. This is not important to get it right as it cannot be seen through the windows when the roof is on.

The washout plug etches should be soldered behind the holes in the boiler.

Once done the boiler can be attached to the floor plate. The seem needs to face the door of the luggage compartment so the coal hole faces the coal bunker.

With the boiler fitted to the floor the Reversing Lever should be made.

The tips of the front ratchet frame should be folded back on them selves to double up at each end and drilled with a.5mm drill along with the backing frame then pinned together and soldered in place.


Once soldered together file back the wire and form a zig zag, the lever frame should end up facing the front when fitted to the boiler and the lever should be added before fitting. The lever centre position is Neutral Forward gear the lever is at the boiler end and Reverse the other end.

I have added a copper pipe to the hole at the back.

There are two other levers and ratchets which should be made up in a similar way these are for the door section and are for pulling the steps out when needed. The lever fits on the wall panel behind the right hand door on the inside. and should be fitted after painting the interior



Thanks to and Copyright David Brandreth for this picture.

So this should be what we have now.

The boiler should have some pipework on it and have made up some pieces which will need lost wax casting although the boiler top will be resin I have purposely made it slightly squat to fit in under the roof and over the motor.

Still some of the fine detail needs to be added but that can wait until after the roof is done.

Jeremy Suter
Posts: 232
Joined: Tue Apr 14, 2009 6:56 pm

Re: GWR 59' Railmotor Body Instructions

Postby Jeremy Suter » Sat Jun 12, 2021 10:35 pm

The Next stage is to do the Roof.

This is a three arc or elliptical roof and very hard to form.

So starting at the rain strip, which is made from two layers and screwed together rather than soldered at this point. Although a slight error in the production etches 4 holes have been missed out. only two are important and are marked 1 and 2 in this photo will need to be drilled out 2mm

These two parts need to be cut out with the frame still attached the one with the half etch slots goes on top.


They should be screwed together first.
Then the frame only can be soldered leaving the centre until later. Once this is done the roof ribs can be folded up This part could be done earlier. Then the two missing holes can be drilled using the top layer as a guide.

Now make sure the frame will fit to the body, and there are no high spots on the partitions in the body. Some filling may be required at corners of each end to fit inside the body ends .

Now with the roof frame in place fit the roof mounts, these are on the body etch. So that they slot into the holes and spaces in the partitions.

Fits in recesses between these two.
IMG_5643 (2).JPG

Slots in this side.
IMG_5642 (2).JPG

Now 12BA nuts need to be soldered in the recess making sure they line up with the body mounts.
IMG_6146 (2).JPG
IMG_6146 (3).JPG

Now the difficult part is to roll the roof and two skins are supplied in case of error the instructions make it sound easy but this is really hard to get right.
Firstly roll the shallow top arc in rolling bars. I have put a piece of paper behind to soften the impact ion the etched side. If the ends roll and the middle stays flat put thicker paper in the centre section as the bars are actually bowing.

large radius rolled. You can see the tabs which slot into the rain strip. DO NOT use the frame to form the tight radius section as it will indent the roof.

The tight radius should be formed using a 5mm bar and angle screwed together. I use an 8mm one to form tumblehomes.

The tabs should be pulled through the gap in the bar and angle so that the edge of the roof is just visible. I have then clamped the whole lot in a vice at the roof centre then pulled round the roof using a steel rule. over bending the curve as it will spring back and when slotted into the frame is not pulling on the ribs.

Repeat this for both sides and slot into rain strips.

Turn upside down and solder in place. Using the slots and tabs and keep flat.

Remove from frame.

Finish soldering and clean up. tabs and edges.

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