GWR 59' Railmotor Body Instructions
Posted: Thu Aug 13, 2020 10:18 pm
This follows on from the Underframe Kit Instructions.
It is not a beginners kit, so please read all instructions carefully before starting.
I will be doing it in four parts, The main body, Interior, Roof. Glazing and Handrails. Which I will do after painting.
Part 1 The Main Body
Starting in the middle. Make up the internal doors they are handed left and right, backs and fronts so they need to be soldered together using a piece of .45mm wire to help locate them together through the door handle hole. When they are soldered together the wire can be cut leaving a small piece to represent the handle. There should be 5 doors.
The partitions are made of two pieces soldered either side of the doors, one with a cut out in the side and one without. They also need to be matched with each other. Two with holes in each side, one with two slots in the upper section, and two plain.
The ends are next. They need scribing along the half etch line on the inner side with the back of a knife to weaken the fold line so that it does not distort the window frame when folding.
They should be folded to the shape of the former.
The inner sections need the same scribing doing as the fold line is very close to the window glazing half etch, possibly cutting almost through at the top. Then fold to match the outer ends.
Before the two end parts are soldered together chamfer the inner pieces to make the side perpendicular to the front.
The two pieces that make up the end should be soldered together using the grab handle holes to match them up there should be a .6mm gap at the bottom to allow the former and sides .The grab handles can be soldered in permanently.
Make sure the slots for the glazing are free from solder so that the glazing can be slotted in later.
With the ends soldered together the former should be soldered to the bottom of the inner piece. There should be a .3mm gap below the former this is to allow it to fit inside the side.
Lastly on the ends, the window frames can be soldered in place best done by tinning first to avoid over doing the solder and filling the glazing gap.
It is not a beginners kit, so please read all instructions carefully before starting.
I will be doing it in four parts, The main body, Interior, Roof. Glazing and Handrails. Which I will do after painting.
Part 1 The Main Body
Starting in the middle. Make up the internal doors they are handed left and right, backs and fronts so they need to be soldered together using a piece of .45mm wire to help locate them together through the door handle hole. When they are soldered together the wire can be cut leaving a small piece to represent the handle. There should be 5 doors.
The partitions are made of two pieces soldered either side of the doors, one with a cut out in the side and one without. They also need to be matched with each other. Two with holes in each side, one with two slots in the upper section, and two plain.
The ends are next. They need scribing along the half etch line on the inner side with the back of a knife to weaken the fold line so that it does not distort the window frame when folding.
They should be folded to the shape of the former.
The inner sections need the same scribing doing as the fold line is very close to the window glazing half etch, possibly cutting almost through at the top. Then fold to match the outer ends.
Before the two end parts are soldered together chamfer the inner pieces to make the side perpendicular to the front.
The two pieces that make up the end should be soldered together using the grab handle holes to match them up there should be a .6mm gap at the bottom to allow the former and sides .The grab handles can be soldered in permanently.
Make sure the slots for the glazing are free from solder so that the glazing can be slotted in later.
With the ends soldered together the former should be soldered to the bottom of the inner piece. There should be a .3mm gap below the former this is to allow it to fit inside the side.
Lastly on the ends, the window frames can be soldered in place best done by tinning first to avoid over doing the solder and filling the glazing gap.