Brian Morgan GWR Bloater Underframe Kit

Jeremy Suter
Posts: 232
Joined: Tue Apr 14, 2009 6:56 pm

Brian Morgan GWR Bloater Underframe Kit

Postby Jeremy Suter » Sun Feb 24, 2019 10:27 am

It has been brought to my attention that there are some errors in the WN4590 Underframe kit for the GWR Bloater.
This was one of the last Kits that Brian did and I suspect he never checked it.

The etch is out and the first thing to notice is that the two Vees are different lengths and the Vacuum Cylinder is near to the Short Vee. This is incorrect it should be attached to the Long Vee and there is no connecting arm from the vacuum.

Please forgive the photos which may be slightly different to the description as I realised this when fitting the brake rigging and all I could do was to move the Cylinder but for further kits I will draw up a correcting and extra part etch so you can remove the vees and replace them.
This will also mean that the brakes will have to be reversed from the etched stated position as they are set to the height of the Vees.

The Brake Lever Brackets will be not need to be altered as the wide one should go at the end with the long Vee I have swapped them round as I have not moved the Vees but every thing else

Brake rigging fitted

chassis rigging pinned and soldered together.

Rigging added. There are some spacers to go on before the solebar is added

Solebars being folded up first fold.

Second Fold

Some .45mm NS wire added to the slots in the back of the sole bar before fitting to the chassis.

The solebars can be attached to the chassis and located by two wires slotted through the holes in each end.

These should be folded over to 90 degrees to go around the front of the springs.

And 90 degree downwards.

The top step brackets can be added by slotting in the gap formed by the spacers from the top and then folded by 90 degrees.


The steps can be made up

This is where there is a problem the top steps are fine but the lower steps are too wide Brian measured them from the back of the solebar rather than the front I will be drawing up new steps. I have not made new steps on mine I cheated I just put the brackets behind the springs.
I am drawing up new steps for the extra etch to correct this kit .
Body brackets added before fitting the steps.

Steps and spring and axlebox added.

All steps added and brake lever in place ready for the body. the lower steps are too deep still but I don't think it will be noticed when painted.

Body on.

The kit supplied some brass buffers which I did not use as they were not sprung so I have made a set.
Staring with 3.5mm Square rod in a Collet I turned the base.


With the base turned I cut it and a length on the rod off and turned it round to do the shank.
Then the body is turned these have a step in them.

With the body turned I need to drill out for the head with a 1.5mm drill. only going in as far as the base.

Then drilling through the shank with a .5mm drill so it can be sprung.

Finally parted off. These buffers did have strenghthening wings and bolt heads but I am not goint to bother with them.

User avatar
Le Corbusier
Posts: 1588
Joined: Wed Feb 11, 2015 3:39 pm

Re: Brian Morgan GWR Bloater Underframe Kit

Postby Le Corbusier » Sat Mar 02, 2019 8:39 am

lovely pictures of the turning ... thanks :thumb
Tim Lee

Jeremy Suter
Posts: 232
Joined: Tue Apr 14, 2009 6:56 pm

Re: Brian Morgan GWR Bloater Underframe Kit

Postby Jeremy Suter » Sun Mar 03, 2019 8:53 am

With the buffer shanks made I moved on to the heads.
Using a 5mm Nickel Silver rod in the big lathe I firstly turned the head size to 4.7mm and then the shank to 1.5mm lastly putting a pop mark in the end .I did not drill it out at this point as this lathe will not take the .5mm drill.

Then parted off ready for the heads to be faced.

They are now placed in the Boley lathe.

I have finished the front by facing it to .7mm thick and then coning it with a file.

I could have drilled all the way through the head at this point with a .5mm drill for the tail but decided it was too far about 4mm.
So using the pop mark as a guide I drilled in about 1mm in with the Pillar Drill which will take a .5mm drill.

Slotting in some .5mm wire and soldering in place. All that is required now are some springs

Springs added, slotted into shanks, fitted to the wagon, and painted.

The wagon has been fitted with AJ couplings as well as screw link for now. All I need to do now is weather it and I think I will repaint the roof a darker colour.

Posts: 313
Joined: Tue Apr 07, 2015 9:41 pm

Re: Brian Morgan GWR Bloater Underframe Kit

Postby garethashenden » Tue Mar 05, 2019 2:52 pm

AJs and screwlinks? They don’t interfere with each other?

Jeremy Suter
Posts: 232
Joined: Tue Apr 14, 2009 6:56 pm

Re: Brian Morgan GWR Bloater Underframe Kit

Postby Jeremy Suter » Wed Mar 06, 2019 9:04 am

Post by garethashenden » Tue Mar 05, 2019 3:52 pm
AJs and screwlinks? They don’t interfere with each other?

Hi Gareth
Yes they do. But not sure which way to go at the moment. All new wagons are fitted with AJs but my older stock has screw and 3 link so slowly fitting AJs to them. I like the ease of uncoupling the AJs just need to work out where to put the magnets on the layout.

Return to “Jeremy Suter”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest