GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis instructions

Jeremy Suter
Posts: 153
Joined: Tue Apr 14, 2009 6:56 pm

GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis instructions

Postby Jeremy Suter » Tue Jun 26, 2018 10:22 am

This is not a beginners kit.
Its recommended reading the instructions carefully before building.

The Kit should Include everything except wheels and paint.

IMG_4361.JPG



Parts list.

Large Etch Chassis Parts.
Small Etch Valve Gear Parts.
4 Brass Horn Blocks.
6 Short Hand Rail Knobs.
Castings including 4 Sandboxes handed 2 right 2 left.
Cylinder tops left and right.
Boiler inserts 2 .
Mitsumi Motor.
High Level Gear Set.
4 Machined Body Mounts.
Copperclad 2 Strips.
Selection of Nuts and Bolts 8ba 12ba 14ba 16ba.
Selection of brass nickel and steel Wire and Tube.
A printed parts list and an etch parts list.

Jeremy Suter
Posts: 153
Joined: Tue Apr 14, 2009 6:56 pm

Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis instructions

Postby Jeremy Suter » Wed Jun 27, 2018 9:27 am

The Kit is designed to be built in S4 EM and OO gauges. OO modellers may have to alter the boiler mount to get the motor and gear box in as S4 and EM Modellers should be able to push the motor through the chassis side frames from below.
There are almost enough parts on the chassis etch to make a sprung and rigid chassis in different gauges. Although it is recommended that a sprung version is built in all gauges.


Starting with the Hornblocks these need backs attaching to them.

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The hornblock back should be soldered to the thick side on the hornblock with the spigot to the top. There is a recess in the etch to locate the brass hornblock.

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Once attached the spigot should be folded down and soldered in place. This is a reverse fold through 180 degree, there should now be a hole in the post to allow the spring wire to go through.

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Note they are handed and clean off any excess solder and put to one side.
Last edited by Jeremy Suter on Sun Jul 01, 2018 7:04 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Jeremy Suter
Posts: 153
Joined: Tue Apr 14, 2009 6:56 pm

Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis instructions

Postby Jeremy Suter » Wed Jun 27, 2018 6:57 pm

The Gearbox is next.
I have had to design gearbox to fit so that the motor slots up into the centre of the boiler with High Level gears on a 54:1 Ratio.

IMG_4365.JPG

Take the Gearbox Etch, and ream out the holes to fit 2mm screws. (If not using the motor supplied there are 2 small holes which can be enlarged to the correct size required and should fit a Mashima motor.)

IMG_4366.JPG

Fold up the etch and again ream out the larger holes to fit the 2mm steel Rod and the smaller holes to fit a 1.5mm rod these need to be a snug fit. The gear wheel will need a 2.5mm piece of tube spacer to keep centralized.

IMG_4367.JPG


The last thing is to fit the Axle bearings, I fitted from the outside and removed excess from the gear side but OO modellers may need to fit from the inside and remove excess from both sides as it may be a little tight in the chassis.

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Once all together run the motor to make sure it runs well and the end of the drive shaft should be cut so that it does not protrude out.

Jeremy Suter
Posts: 153
Joined: Tue Apr 14, 2009 6:56 pm

Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis instructions

Postby Jeremy Suter » Thu Jun 28, 2018 10:18 pm

Now I will start on the main Chassis.

I am building the a Sprung Chassis. The Rigid is exactly the same
Take the 2 side frames and the required gauge spacers.

IMG_4384.JPG


Pop out the rivets with a sharp point There are some practice ones on the side of the fret.

Miss out the rivets around the long slot on the left hand side of the right hand horn guide in the picture as there is an overlay plate for these.
You do not pop out any rivets on the Cylinder Front these may be required later as Indents for a flush riveted chassis. So the etch dots need to face outward on the chassis.

IMG_4385.JPG


Solder up the chassis so that it is square. I started with the front piece which should be slightly shorter top and bottom to allow for cylinder wrapper.
The Centre Spacer has 90 degree folds top and bottom which face backwards with the two slots to the top. The Rear Spacer is two parts. The piece with 2 slots fits into the recesses on the side frames. The final piece fits underneath along the half etch line with the short section to the rear.

IMG_4387.JPG


The next step is to fit the spring mounts which are 6 Short hand rail knobs before adding the Rivet overlays to the sides.
There are 5 small holes that run above the horn guides which will have to be drilled out to suit the hand rail knobs.
I used the two outer and the centre one the other two are not required unless you want to shorten the spring. Once fitted the excess on the front needs to be removed.

IMG_4388.JPG


I used a piece of wire to keep the Handrail Knobs level.

Now I can fit the Rivet Overlays for the Horn Guides and the Slide Bar Bracket.
Start with the Slide Bar Bracket, these are handed so that the recess should go round the half etch for the body spring mount and the slight L shape of it faces forward.
Slot the hornblocks in place and mark round the outside of them so that the rivet overlay can be soldered on in the right place and does not interfere with the springing of the hornblocks. These are handed and the tight riveted side faces to the centre of the chassis.

IMG_4390.JPG


I have now fitted the hornblocks with the wire springs in and the gearbox just to check every thing lines up OK.

Jeremy Suter
Posts: 153
Joined: Tue Apr 14, 2009 6:56 pm

Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis instructions

Postby Jeremy Suter » Sun Jul 01, 2018 6:54 pm

With the chassis all Square the Cylinders are the next thing to work on.
Select the correct gauge Cylinder parts as per the picture, also needed is the cylinder front which is not in photo.
IMG_4391.JPG

Start with the tube, this is for the piston to slide into. Then ream out to fit the Piston Stem Guides there are four for each side and a fifth half etched to finish.

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Solder these together so that they are all lined up and 1mm from the end of the tube. Once soldered together clean back all the etched cusps till it looks neat.

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Then slide on the Cylinder Fronts two part for each side. Note that these are handed and off set. once soldered in the right position clean off the Etched cusps.

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Now slide on the remaining parts in the right order so that they can be attached to the Chassis, that is Cylinder Front first followed by the two Cylinder inners the Cylinder Front and the first Inner need to be soldered together but not to the tube.

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Now Slot the Tube into the Cylinder back and the Cylinder front into the Chassis side and when satisfied they are in the right place solder to the chassis. Keep piston tube free for the moment.
Attachments
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Jeremy Suter
Posts: 153
Joined: Tue Apr 14, 2009 6:56 pm

Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis instructions

Postby Jeremy Suter » Sun Jul 01, 2018 9:33 pm

Before moving on to the Cylinder Covers and the Slide Bars its time to do the Boiler Base and the Spring Mounts.

IMG_4405.JPG


The Boiler Base parts will need to be curved, then slotted into the chassis side frames. I curved them by pressing around a 12mm Bar, then turning back to front and running a file across to get a tapered edge so that they fit close to the frames. Don't file off the bottom rivet. I also shortened the tabs so it is easier to go through the slots.

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Once slotted into the chassis the top rivet layer can be added, there are two indents on the back of the strip to locate on the two rivets on the top boiler parts. Then they will need to be form the shape by pressing against and soldering along.

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Now fitted to the main body of the chassis you can see through the hole the back of the handrail knob make sure it has been filed flush so that the insert can be fitted later.

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Now the Body Spring Mounts can be added. They need to have the rivets punched out and then cleaned up etched cusp to fit but on the riveted section for now when folded up hopefully should fit in the recess on the side frames.

IMG_4409.JPG


IMG_4410.JPG

Jeremy Suter
Posts: 153
Joined: Tue Apr 14, 2009 6:56 pm

Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis instructions

Postby Jeremy Suter » Mon Jul 02, 2018 10:26 pm

Now on to the Slidebars and Bracket.

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There are two laminations for each Slidebar which should be soldered together with the Half Etched side to the centre.

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Once soldered together they need to be filed flush and smooth without loosing the shape. The two slots in the top Slidebar need to be clear so that the Valve Gland rod can be pushed through later.

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Slot the Bracket to the Chassis with the half etched section facing forward, making sure its at right angle before soldering. Use the Cylinder front as a locater to slot the top Slidebar in position. Make sure level before soldering . They will need a little filing to fit. The cylinder end of the Slidebar will need shortening slightly.

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When happy add the lower Slidebar and again the Bracket will need filing for it to fit.
When the two bars are parallel Solder in position.

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With the Slidebars in Position the Cylinder Front can be soldered in place and the ends removed and filed flush.

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IMG_4417.JPG (99.07 KiB) Viewed 3422 times


I have also added the steps which fit in the Cylinder Front.

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The next thing is to put on the Bracket Edgings The Triangle part is for the top, there is a parallel section which faces forward.

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The long one is for the Centre. To form the shape I rolled around a small fine at both ends so it would fit inside the C section of the Bracket and then pushed into position making sure it does not interfere with the slidebars before soldering.

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The short one is the bottom and when soldered into position cut the excess off.

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Now the Reversing Lever Bracket can be added to the base of the Slidebar Bracket.

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Fold into a U shape and solder into the Half etched section on the Bracket. A .8mm rod pushed through both sides will help solder on in the wright position.

Jeremy Suter
Posts: 153
Joined: Tue Apr 14, 2009 6:56 pm

Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis instructions

Postby Jeremy Suter » Tue Jul 03, 2018 10:19 pm

Now for the Expansion Link Bracket.

This is made from two parts.

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The Y shape piece slots into the other, which needs to be folded into a U shape first, there are no fold lines only the half etch edge to position the fold which folds back on itself on each side.

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When U shape is formed slide the Y shape piece into the slot. Centralizing and then solder in position. The end needs cutting back leaving enough to go through the Slidebar Bracket.

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I have slotted a wire through to make sure they are square before attaching to the Slidebar Bracket.

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Now fitted to the Chassis.
All this is a tight fit and it may be easier to do this before adding the Slidebar Brackets top edging. The Expansion Bracket should fit with the holes for the Expansion Link pivot clear above the Slidebar and in all in front so that it does not interfere with the Crosshead.

Jeremy Suter
Posts: 153
Joined: Tue Apr 14, 2009 6:56 pm

Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis instructions

Postby Jeremy Suter » Wed Jul 04, 2018 8:00 am

The next step is to finish the Cylinders.

IMG_4430.JPG


Starting with the Covers. On one side at the end where the two legs are there are two half etched lines appearing on one side. Run a sharp knife along them to make sure they go through. When done Join the two lines with another slice of the Knife to produce a fold line.

IMG_4431.JPG


This section needs to be folded about 30 degrees to form the top part of the cylinder and the curve should be formed next. I did it by pulling round a 3mm rod testing regularly so not under doing the curve the other end of the cover should reach the side frames.

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The rivet overlay for the front of the Cylinders can be added now this piece should be put on Back to Front if a none riveted front is wanted the rivets should slot into the holes in the inner piece, otherwise with a riveted front the small gap in the centre should be on the lower rivet row.

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When all done the drain cocks sould be made from .5mm wire and cut to about 1.2mm deep. The drain cock pull rod should be also added.( I have not got one yet its on the later Valve gear Etch.) The Cylinder fronts should be added the spacer etch shown above is not required.

IMG_4434.JPG

Jeremy Suter
Posts: 153
Joined: Tue Apr 14, 2009 6:56 pm

Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis instructions

Postby Jeremy Suter » Wed Jul 04, 2018 9:52 am

Now move onto the boiler base which fits on the top of the chassis. The half etch lines should slot over the chassis side frames,
IMG_4435.JPG

then the four lugs at each corner are to locate it in right position. The ring should match the lower Boiler Base parts. For OO modellers only the rear section will need to be cut out to slot the Motor Gearbox in from the top. EM and S4 modellers should fit it from below. When soldered in place fold round the excess rivet layer.
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moving to the rear of the Chasssis the brake levers can be added. There is a rivet overlay already attached and the Brackets are drawn to go over it, but may need some filing so that they fit level the top should be parallel to the track.
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Once soldered into position the levers should fitted with a .7mm rod with the large lever close to the left hand side and again be parallel to the track.
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Leave the other two smaller ones loose on the rod for now.
IMG_4439.JPG

Jeremy Suter
Posts: 153
Joined: Tue Apr 14, 2009 6:56 pm

Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis instructions

Postby Jeremy Suter » Wed Jul 04, 2018 3:50 pm

The Brakes are the next Job

IMG_4446.JPG


There are two types. Short on the front and the Long on the rear. I have drawn front and backs as well as a set of spare Shoes which are not needed. Fronts and Backs should be soldered together and holes drilled out with a .45mm drill then cleaned up.

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The Pull Bars need a .45mm rod soldering in the half etched groove on one side only.

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Slot the pull bars through the pull lever before soldering a .45mm rod on the other end.
A .45mm rod needs to be put through the holes in the chassis to attach the Brake Hangers. The rear end needs to be cut the middle out so the motor can go through.

IMG_4449.JPG


Use .45mm wire to slot the Pull rod between the two loose cranks on the Brake Lever, then thread the brakes into there positions. when satisfied solder the brakes to the Pull Bars but not the Brake Hangers to the Mounts then Fix the two loose cranks in position but not allowing them to solder the Pull Rod in as it needs to be dropped out.

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Now add the Guard Irons into the half etched recess in the front of the Chassis.

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Now bend to shape.
The next thing to do is add pick ups plates I used 2 pieces of double sided copper clad soldered to the top of the boiler mount.

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Note I have dropped the brakes out.
With all the Nickel Silver work done on the chassis its time to put on the White Metal Castings.

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Slot the Washout Plug casting into the gap between the Boiler Base and the Chassis. this will need thinning to fit .

The Cylinder Tops can be soldered into position with the overflow facing forward note these are handed to fit in gap.

There are 4 Sandboxes which again are handed by the rivet pattern on the face. The lower rivet is the side that fits to the chassis. The Sandboxes outside edge fit in line with the side frames on both front and rear. and a .6mm wire is used for the sand pipe.

Note: Use good photographs of the Railmotor you want as many Railmotors had the front Sand Box between the Cylinders rather than in front.

IMG_4457 (2).JPG


Now Wash and Paint before adding the Wheels and Valve Gear

Jeremy Suter
Posts: 153
Joined: Tue Apr 14, 2009 6:56 pm

Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis instructions

Postby Jeremy Suter » Tue Jul 10, 2018 2:48 pm

Now with the chassis painted the wheels should be added I am using Alan Gibson 3'11 instead of the 4' wheels they are .33mm too small over diameter but the spokes and crank throw are much nearer the prototype which looks better.
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Keep the brakes separate for now.

Before fitting the wheels to the Axles the Crank screws should be added.

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Slot the Hornblocks onto the axle the correct way round so that the spring guide will be nearest the middle and face centre when slotted into the chassis. Now check they fit in the chassis and run freely. This will have to be quick check as the crank pin fouls the Slidebars. I had to put a 6 thou washed on each end of the axle to remove excess slop.
The right hand side leads when quartering the wheels.
Once gauged and quartered I have pinned them so that this axle is now fixed

Repeat for the drive axle but adding the motor gear box first so that it will slot up into the chassis.
I will not pin these wheels until I am happy with running.

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Checking the fit. you need a bit of patience to get everything in the right place I had to file a small section of the gear box as chassis boiler mount was sitting on it and not allowing the springing to go down far enough. Its not shown in picture as taken before testing

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Now starting with the Coupling rods.
Each rod is made up of two laminations and the round end fits behind the slidebars it is also recessed to give some extra clearance.

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Once the laminations are soldered together smoothed off and holes reamed out to fit the coupling rod bearings.
I have fitted them to the front wheel set only. the Crank Pin Bearing has been shortened and put on the wrong way round too keep the thickness to a minimum. Then fixed in place. I soldered them but this could be glued to prevent damaging the plastic wheel.

IMG_4467.JPG


Now all slotted into the Chassis with the springs added. You can just see where I had to file the gearbox through the hole in the top.
Coupling Rods fitted to the Drive end then check that motor runs the wheels smoothly.

Jeremy Suter
Posts: 153
Joined: Tue Apr 14, 2009 6:56 pm

Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis instructions

Postby Jeremy Suter » Wed Jul 11, 2018 11:05 am

With the coupling rods on and running smoothly move onto the Crosshead and Connecting Rod.

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Again two laminations for each Connecting Rod. Solder together then file smooth and reame holes to fit Crank Bearing and allow a 16BA Screw to run freely in the Crosshead end.
The Crosshead is made from 2 parts a Front and Back.
The Back needs the top and bottom folding to 90 degree so that it fits between the Slidebars and runs freely back and forth. the two folds should match the recess in the Front piece.
The front of the Back also needs folding up, both folds are inwards first one 180 degrees the second 90 degrees to form a double thickness then the hole needs drilling out to fit a .8mm Rod for the Piston. Solder it in place, so that there is enough clearance for the Connecting Rod to fit.

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Now fit a 16BA screw into the back of the Crosshead and solder in place, then file back the head so that it does not interfere with the Coupling rods when in situ.

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There is an overlay to be soldered on the front to thicken up the Drop Link.

When all done slot every thing into the Slidebars with the Connecting Rod to the drive axle then make sure the piston is long enough to slide in and out of the Cylinder without getting stuck or dropping out.

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When all runs smoothly fit the Front of the Crosshead and fix with a 16ba nut and push front so that it meets the piston. Do not fix permanently yet.

This last section is a slight variation from the Prototype as there is no fixing visible on the front of the crosshead. I have found that this is the easiest way to fit the Crosshead as the Drop Link hits the Reversing Lever Bracket when sliding into the Slidebars.

Jeremy Suter
Posts: 153
Joined: Tue Apr 14, 2009 6:56 pm

Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis instructions

Postby Jeremy Suter » Tue Jul 17, 2018 2:12 pm

Check that the chassis runs smoothly with the pistons in place.

Now the Valve Gear should be started.

IMG_4472.JPG


I have laid out the Valve Gear in order from the Cross Head front to the Eccentric Crank. Some of the links are made from two laminations. There are also two types of Radius Rods and Valve Glands.

All the holes need to be enlarged. Those that are not laminated should have the holes drilled out it fit the .5mm Rod which should be soldered in so that the laminated ones will sandwich around them. The laminated parts should be drilled out to .6mm to allow a loose fit over the .5mm Rods.

IMG_4474.JPG


To get the rods perpendicular to the Links I have slotted both sides on the rod then soldered in place ready to be cut apart.

The next step is to tin the inner sides of the laminated parts, making sure no solder goes on the section to go around connecting link.
Once tinned the two parts of the Union Crank should sandwich the Drop Link and the Combination Lever. Then add heat to it in the centre section so to solder it together making sure they still articulate. When happy with the join file back the .5mm rod close to the front and back.

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With the first three links in the Valve Gear chain done the next piece is the Radius Rod. This is also a lamination to go over the centre .5mm rod on the Radius Rod but will need to be folded to go round the Lift Link. Both front and back fold round the lift link making sure the holes line up. the lift link is a loose fit as the rear hole has to go round the Expansion Link which is double thickness and then slot into the Expansion Link Bracket.

With the valve gear section done the Valve Gland should be folded up all folds are inwards and right angles so that the top .5mm rod on the Radius Rod goes through the hole in the front of the gland the two holes in the side should be drilled .5mm and a .5mm rod slotted into it. That rod needs to go through the two posts on the top Slidebar aswell.

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This photo shows the folds front and back on the Radius Rod.

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Now add the links to the chassis by fitting the Crosshead first, the .5mm rod through the Valve Gland should be slotted through the holes in the posts on the Slidebars. Then the far end of the Radius Rod slotted into the Expansion Link Bracket and soldered in place so that it is level, drilled out to .7mm and the expansion link will rock in the gap.
If you do not want to do this last soldering the other Radius Rod could be used which has a fold on the other end which shoud be slotted onto the rod of the Valve Gland and will keep it at the right height. Only the top pivot rod of the Combination Lever should be used and the Valve gland will be fixed instead of sliding on the rod.
The Lift Link should be left hanging for now.

Jeremy Suter
Posts: 153
Joined: Tue Apr 14, 2009 6:56 pm

Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis instructions

Postby Jeremy Suter » Tue Jul 17, 2018 10:19 pm

With the main Valve Gear done the Reversing Lever which again is made from two laminations can be added.

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The two parts should be slotted onto a .9mm rod and the rod put through the Reversing Lever Bracket then add the two on the other side.

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Now slot the Lift Lever between the two parts of the Brake Lever and solder them together, the Lift Lever can be soldered to the Brake Lever. Before soldering to the .9mm rod make sure the Crosshead runs freely behind it.

IMG_4485.JPG


The next stage is the Expansion Link This is made of two Pieces the one with the link loop should be on the outside and a .5mm rod needs to be soldered in it so that the Eccentric rod can be soldered around it and allowing it to swing when in position.

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With the Eccentric rod together now it needs to be attached to the Eccentric crank which is also two parts the Half etched one is the front so that the ring round the small hole works as a spacer to allow free running between the Rod and Crank. The lace pin should be used as a rivet and soldered from behind then filed back so that it will not fowl the connecting rod when going round.
The Last step with the valve gear is to attach the Eccentric Crank to the Crankpin.

IMG_4490.JPG


Now attach these three cranks to the chassis, firstly slot the Expansion Link into the Bracket by using a .7mm Rod to work as a pivot and secure from behind then cut to length so that it finishes flush with the front. I secured with a small drop of glue on the back.
Now the Eccentric Crank should be attached to the Crankpin, there is a washer to go on the pin before the crank to work a spacer to keep the crank from nocking on the connecting rod. The Crank should be soldered to the crankpin so that it looks like its about 3 minutes to the O'clock. Then the excess pin should be cut back and filled flush.

IMG_4489.JPG


When all done make sure all still runs well.

Jeremy Suter
Posts: 153
Joined: Tue Apr 14, 2009 6:56 pm

Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis instructions

Postby Jeremy Suter » Wed Jul 18, 2018 12:07 pm

With the Chassis and Valve Gear all running the Balance Weights can be added there are two sets depending on which wheels you have used the thinner set go with Alan Gibson 3'11'' wheels, the fatter set go with his 4' wheels but to use the 4' wheels you will need to move the crankpin closer to the centre to allow the wheels to go round with the coupling rods on.

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The Balance Weights should be fitted to the wheels in the opposite quarter to the Crankpin, with the Slim one to the Front Axle and the Fatter to the Rear.

Jeremy Suter
Posts: 153
Joined: Tue Apr 14, 2009 6:56 pm

Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis instructions

Postby Jeremy Suter » Wed Jul 18, 2018 12:34 pm

The next step is to add Pickups This is always a matter of choice but for mine I am picking up off all 4 wheels from above I will also add pickups to the Rear Bogie later.
I have put the Pickup plates on the top of the Chassis Boiler Mount, then a .7mm wire has been soldered on top and folded down so that the spring pickups I have made are strengthened to keep in place.

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Spring pickups made from .3mm nickel wire wound round a 1mm drill and have been handed so that I can solder on the top with the loops slotted over the .7mm rod which is then cut to length. Then folded at right angle to go behind the wheels and sprung forward too wipe gently on the back of the wheels then cut to length.

IMG_4496.JPG


Now we can wire the Pickups to the Motor.

Jeremy Suter
Posts: 153
Joined: Tue Apr 14, 2009 6:56 pm

Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis instructions

Postby Jeremy Suter » Wed Jul 18, 2018 3:27 pm

Now to the Dean Suspension.

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This is made from two parts a Mounting Plate and Suspension Plate. Held together with an 8BA nut used as a bearing. This should be soldered to the Mounting plate and filed almost flush on the Hexagon side. The Suspension Plate can then be fitted over it and the 8BA bolt screwed in and shortened to length.
The Mounting Plate has a cut out on one side to go around the Slidebar Mounting Plate, but some filing may be required.

This part now done the Suspension Pate should be formed to shape. That is the two sides should be folded down to right angles. This is a Reverse Ford with the Half Etch on the Otside.
(NOTE All Folds on this piece are Reverse Folds).

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Next the sides need to be folded back on themselves by 180 degrees, then the four flaps should be folded back by 180 degrees, although one side will need to be filed almost flush with the side so to give more movement on the chassis when fitted. This is the side the Brakes are on.
All this piece should be well soldered together and edges should be filed square. When all done the four corner holes can be drilled out with a .8mm drill to fit the Suspension Posts on the Body.

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Once all done it should be screwed back together and painted before adding to the Chassis.

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To add to the chassis the 4 14BA steel Bolts should be used, slot them through the holes in the mounting plate but do not fix in place then slot them through the mounts on the Chassis and run on a 14BA nut to hold in place do not fix or cut the Bolts as this will be the only way to adjust the height later.

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Now the Brakes that we made earlier can be added.
I have Filed back the Pull bars to go around the Suspension Beams as they were reducing the amount of radial turn on the chassis, If more movement is required then the beam could be removed and a .5mm rod replace it.

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A short .5mm rod has been pushed through the Brake Pull Rod Levers and some paint will hold it there just in case I need to remove the Brakes.

This is the Chassis Completed. So all that needs to be done is to fit to body.

IMG_4508.JPG


For this 4 milled posts are supplied. They need the corners rounding and the hole in the bottom drilling out to .7mm for a .7mm wire to be soldered in a starter hole has been made. They need to be soldered to the Underframe 10.4mm apart.
Now the height should be adjusted to suit.
IMG_4509.JPG

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Horsetan
Posts: 944
Joined: Tue Jul 29, 2008 9:24 am

Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis instructions

Postby Horsetan » Wed Jul 18, 2018 5:49 pm

Remarkable :thumb
That would be an ecumenical matter.

Phil O
Posts: 236
Joined: Sun May 05, 2013 5:23 pm

Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis instructions

Postby Phil O » Fri Jul 20, 2018 12:18 pm

WOW, fantastic.


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