GWR Fishbelly Bogie Instructions
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GWR Fishbelly Bogie Instructions
These Fishbelly Bogies come in two sizes 8' and 9' both used on Railmotors. As the 9' appears on many other GWR coaches I am making them available separately.
The Etch.
All the 180 degree folds fold outwards and all the 90 degree folds fold inwards, except the brake rod mounts which fold outwards these are also the crossbeam centralizers .
Start by removing the main section using a sharp knife on a hard board for a clean cut. then clean off any excess tabs.
Fold up the two centre beams to 90 degree.
Now fold up the sides and solder in place they should slot in the half etch slots keeping the two holes clear from solder these are for the springs to fit through later
Once soldered in place the rivet overlay can be folded down by 180 degree and soldered. The axle box keeper plate can be folded up, when fixed in place file off all the fold lines and etch cusps.
Now the centre beam can be folded down.
The bogie ends can be now fitted remembering to fold the strips to form a U shape first.
Attach both ends the centre beam should slot through the end do not solder centre at this point. keep the holes free from solder so the spring wire can be pushed through .
The Crossbeam can now be attached this has two fold down tabs on each side to fit in the open space of the top of the bogie and the eight loops should be folded up on the bogie. (This is the is the outward 90 degree fold) they should between them centralise the Crossbeam so it can be soldered in place at both end then the excess can now be filed off on the ends. Only one of the rivet overlays can be attached to the end at this point.
Turn upside down and the Brake pivot mount can be added.
The bearing mounts can now be cut out and bearings soldered in place. They fit on the side with the half etch ring they do not have to fit within the half etch (slightly smaller than the bearing rim). Once soldered in place the spring wire should be slotted through the half etch slots the large middle section should be bent in slightly to allow wire to go through and then pushed back to keep there but still able to slide on the wire.
Now nip off corners of the bottom of the bearing plates (should have done this before they were etched)
Now thread the spring wire though from the end without the overlay. Threading through the first bearing plate, the centre,and the second bearing plate to the U in the other end. Once all the way there pull back slightly and nip off the excess length then push back in. Repeat for the other side then the over lay can be soldered on to keep it in place. (Or not if you want to be able to remove the spring.)
The Etch.
All the 180 degree folds fold outwards and all the 90 degree folds fold inwards, except the brake rod mounts which fold outwards these are also the crossbeam centralizers .
Start by removing the main section using a sharp knife on a hard board for a clean cut. then clean off any excess tabs.
Fold up the two centre beams to 90 degree.
Now fold up the sides and solder in place they should slot in the half etch slots keeping the two holes clear from solder these are for the springs to fit through later
Once soldered in place the rivet overlay can be folded down by 180 degree and soldered. The axle box keeper plate can be folded up, when fixed in place file off all the fold lines and etch cusps.
Now the centre beam can be folded down.
The bogie ends can be now fitted remembering to fold the strips to form a U shape first.
Attach both ends the centre beam should slot through the end do not solder centre at this point. keep the holes free from solder so the spring wire can be pushed through .
The Crossbeam can now be attached this has two fold down tabs on each side to fit in the open space of the top of the bogie and the eight loops should be folded up on the bogie. (This is the is the outward 90 degree fold) they should between them centralise the Crossbeam so it can be soldered in place at both end then the excess can now be filed off on the ends. Only one of the rivet overlays can be attached to the end at this point.
Turn upside down and the Brake pivot mount can be added.
The bearing mounts can now be cut out and bearings soldered in place. They fit on the side with the half etch ring they do not have to fit within the half etch (slightly smaller than the bearing rim). Once soldered in place the spring wire should be slotted through the half etch slots the large middle section should be bent in slightly to allow wire to go through and then pushed back to keep there but still able to slide on the wire.
Now nip off corners of the bottom of the bearing plates (should have done this before they were etched)
Now thread the spring wire though from the end without the overlay. Threading through the first bearing plate, the centre,and the second bearing plate to the U in the other end. Once all the way there pull back slightly and nip off the excess length then push back in. Repeat for the other side then the over lay can be soldered on to keep it in place. (Or not if you want to be able to remove the spring.)
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Re: GWR Fishbelly Bogie Instructions
Now with the main bogie built the wheels can be added, this is a tight squeeze but should run freely.
So to the brakes using the .5mm wire cut to lengths which will slide through the holes on the crossbeam.
The brakes are made of two parts soldered back to back making sure the hole and slot are clear of solder. then attach one end to the -5mm rod before slotting through the holes in the crossbeam.
When the rod is through the holes the brake on the other end can be added but do not fix to the cross beam yet.
To add the brake rigging the picture shows which way round they fit. The bracket end which connects the pull rod to the lever should be twisted to 90 degree so that it can be connected to the brake lever which has four holes in it the end that has two in is for the lever to the centre of the bogie.
The bracket should be slotted through the brakes with the short arm between the U lever mount. The wire slotted through the holes in it and the second hole in the lever, then the long arm fitted to the third hole, (if you want to remove the wheels do not connect permanently to the lever.) This should leave the forth hole clear which is for the wire to slot into and then links back to the hole in the centre bolster. (Not Shown.)
The extra levers on the etch are not required on the bogie these are for the Vacuum Cylinder workings
Once happy with the position the rods holding the mount can be soldered to hold them in position. The tie bars have been added these are slotted into the ends of the keeper plates although I had to drill out the solder in the half etch recess so the .5mm wire fits into although they should be made out of bar I will file the top slightly to make it look flat.
So to the brakes using the .5mm wire cut to lengths which will slide through the holes on the crossbeam.
The brakes are made of two parts soldered back to back making sure the hole and slot are clear of solder. then attach one end to the -5mm rod before slotting through the holes in the crossbeam.
When the rod is through the holes the brake on the other end can be added but do not fix to the cross beam yet.
To add the brake rigging the picture shows which way round they fit. The bracket end which connects the pull rod to the lever should be twisted to 90 degree so that it can be connected to the brake lever which has four holes in it the end that has two in is for the lever to the centre of the bogie.
The bracket should be slotted through the brakes with the short arm between the U lever mount. The wire slotted through the holes in it and the second hole in the lever, then the long arm fitted to the third hole, (if you want to remove the wheels do not connect permanently to the lever.) This should leave the forth hole clear which is for the wire to slot into and then links back to the hole in the centre bolster. (Not Shown.)
The extra levers on the etch are not required on the bogie these are for the Vacuum Cylinder workings
Once happy with the position the rods holding the mount can be soldered to hold them in position. The tie bars have been added these are slotted into the ends of the keeper plates although I had to drill out the solder in the half etch recess so the .5mm wire fits into although they should be made out of bar I will file the top slightly to make it look flat.
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Re: GWR Fishbelly Bogie Instructions
Jeremy, sent me a test etch to assemble, I found it easier to fold the side frames through 90 degrees first and then carry on as per Jeremy's instructions. I was hoping to have the job sorted, before Jeremy got the production etches, but family problems and a week away have not helped. Old age has caught up with me, as my hand, eye coordination is somewhat lacking and I am spending more time on my hands and knees looking for and picking up the brake shoes.
I have a series of build photos on my phone and I will add them to this thread once I have completed the build.
I have to say that the etches are great and despite my miserable failings, the bogies have turned out square and run a treat. I have used 3.1mm brass wire to hold the the bearing etches, as that is what I had to hand.
All that is required to finish the job is suitable castings. A club member is in the market for a pair and I could do with another pair.
Phil.
I have a series of build photos on my phone and I will add them to this thread once I have completed the build.
I have to say that the etches are great and despite my miserable failings, the bogies have turned out square and run a treat. I have used 3.1mm brass wire to hold the the bearing etches, as that is what I had to hand.
All that is required to finish the job is suitable castings. A club member is in the market for a pair and I could do with another pair.
Phil.
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Re: GWR Fishbelly Bogie Instructions
Hi All
T finished my bogies last week, but I have only just found time to download the phone and post the pictures.
I have used a slightly different interpretation on the brake rigging which allows the wheels to be dropped without disturbing it. See the first two photos and finally the finished pair. Just awaiting the castings to complete the job, oh and build the coach to sit on them.
I have to say that they were a joy to build, I have taken a series of photos of my build, but as Jeremy has already posted his production etch seies of instruction, I will not clutter up his thread.
Thanks Jeremy.
Phil
T finished my bogies last week, but I have only just found time to download the phone and post the pictures.
I have used a slightly different interpretation on the brake rigging which allows the wheels to be dropped without disturbing it. See the first two photos and finally the finished pair. Just awaiting the castings to complete the job, oh and build the coach to sit on them.
I have to say that they were a joy to build, I have taken a series of photos of my build, but as Jeremy has already posted his production etch seies of instruction, I will not clutter up his thread.
Thanks Jeremy.
Phil
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Re: GWR Fishbelly Bogie Instructions
These bogies look splendid John
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Re: GWR Fishbelly Bogie Instructions
Comparing the sides with the grid on the mat suggests that the bogie shown in the top photo is significantly distorted.
Regards
Noel
Noel
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Re: GWR Fishbelly Bogie Instructions
Jeremy Suter wrote:These Fishbelly Bogies come in two sizes 8' and 9' both used on Railmotors. As the 9' appears on many other GWR coaches I am making them available separately. ....
Jeremy: are these 9ft fishbellies currently available from you? I'd like to order a pair if possible, to go under a C31 Toplight....
That would be an ecumenical matter.
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Re: GWR Fishbelly Bogie Instructions
Hi Ivan
Yes the etches are available but never got round to finishing the castings the etches are £15.
This is as far as I have got with the castings they have been in this state for 3 years now I do want to finish them and get them cast this year along with a some other bits I am doing for a Great Central Loco which I have been drawing.
Yes the etches are available but never got round to finishing the castings the etches are £15.
This is as far as I have got with the castings they have been in this state for 3 years now I do want to finish them and get them cast this year along with a some other bits I am doing for a Great Central Loco which I have been drawing.
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Re: GWR Fishbelly Bogie Instructions
Hi Jeremy.
What loco please ?
Alan.
What loco please ?
Alan.
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Re: GWR Fishbelly Bogie Instructions
Hi Alan
I am drawing a LNER J12 or GCR 6C as I have been asked to build one for a friend. I have plans to do other Sacre locos especially my favorite engine the 6B LNER D12 which have always been of interest.
6C 466 Trafford Park 1922
6B Manchester Central station 8.22
This one I cut the parts on a Pantograph milling machine but thought it would be better as a etched kit now.
I have drawn the tender and am waiting to have it test etched but need to fill the sheet which will have the loco to go on it.
I am drawing a LNER J12 or GCR 6C as I have been asked to build one for a friend. I have plans to do other Sacre locos especially my favorite engine the 6B LNER D12 which have always been of interest.
6C 466 Trafford Park 1922
6B Manchester Central station 8.22
This one I cut the parts on a Pantograph milling machine but thought it would be better as a etched kit now.
I have drawn the tender and am waiting to have it test etched but need to fill the sheet which will have the loco to go on it.
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Re: GWR Fishbelly Bogie Instructions
Hi Jeremy.
Excellent news, can't wait.
Al.
Excellent news, can't wait.
Al.
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Re: GWR Fishbelly Bogie Instructions
PS. And the 10t underframes are ?
Al.
Al.
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Re: GWR Fishbelly Bogie Instructions
Jeremy Suter wrote:Hi Ivan
Yes the etches are available but never got round to finishing the castings the etches are £15.
IMG_7030[1].JPG
This is as far as I have got with the castings they have been in this state for 3 years now I do want to finish them and get them cast this year ...
I'd like to order a pair of bogies, if I may.
That would be an ecumenical matter.
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Re: GWR Fishbelly Bogie Instructions
Great Central malarkey...
Well that has my attention then
Well that has my attention then
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enemy of truth....
Albert Einstein
Perfection is impossible.
But I may choose to serve perfection....
Robert Fripp
https://www.facebook.com/groups/PadgateWorks/
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Re: GWR Fishbelly Bogie Instructions
Just been building one for the Steam Railmotor. Not too sure about the photos of the brake yoke positions in the thread so I have done them more in line with the official drawings and details of other bogies.
Hopefully the photos help clarify.
Hopefully the photos help clarify.
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Re: GWR Fishbelly Bogie Instructions
I have completed the bogie now. Here are the final images. I will bend the pickups out later.
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Re: GWR Fishbelly Bogie Instructions
The only thing that deters me from ordering some of these bogies at the moment is the non-availability (yet) of castings for the springs and axleboxes. The axleboxes in particular were distinctive and so cannot really be 'bodged' from something else. In any case, etchings of this quality deserve castings of an equal standard. I see that Jeremy has made the masters, so maybe we won't have to wait too long for the complete kit. [EDIT: I see that the model just shown does have springs and axleboxes, so I assume the complete kit is now in fact available.]
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Re: GWR Fishbelly Bogie Instructions
This one is part of the Steam Railmotor kit. I purchased it at Rail Wells in August and all the castings were included.
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Re: GWR Fishbelly Bogie Instructions
martin goodall wrote:The only thing that deters me from ordering some of these bogies at the moment is the non-availability (yet) of castings for the springs and axleboxes. ..... I see that Jeremy has made the masters, so maybe we won't have to wait too long for the complete kit. [EDIT: I see that the model just shown does have springs and axleboxes, so I assume the complete kit is now in fact available.]
Mine were intended to go under a Slater's Toplight, so I assumed I should use the mouldings from the kit....
That would be an ecumenical matter.
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