Brian Morgan Chassis and Iron Mink Instructions

Jeremy Suter
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Brian Morgan Chassis and Iron Mink Instructions

Postby Jeremy Suter » Sun Aug 27, 2017 10:08 am

This is just a few instructions on constructing Brian Morgan Underframes and the body of his Iron Mink kit which I have now had a few more etches delivered as several people asked me about getting some kits when I posted it on my other threads,
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and some jigs.
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Starting with the chassis it looks complicated but actually they are fairly simple and straight forward.
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Take the springing unit first. Make up the setting jig as in the photo by folding up both ends. Then one of the spring frames is shown in front of the jig all folded up ALL FOLDS ARE INWARDS and screw with a 10BA bolt to the setting jig, the nut will be required to be soldered to it so it can be fitted to the underframe later. Then take a length of 11 thou guitar wire to use as the spring and solder through the slots in the spring frame and repeat for the other side then cut to length which is the outside of the setting jig. Two shown but only one required.
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Moving on to the underframe cut out, pop out rivets in the W iron bottom and fold up as shown.
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I have also put a dab of solder on each of the folds where the meet each other. I have also fitted the small piece to the centre that the spring unit fits to.
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Take the W irons for the other side fold up and solder another 10BA nut to each one as shown. The top hat bearings should be fitted now and the spring sliders should be folded up and top hat bearings soldered to them the sliders fit on the inside of the bearings rather than slotted through as shown in the lower photo Clean them up so they slide smoothly in the slot in the W iron
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Now attach the spring unit with a 10 BA screw the W irons can be screwed to the underframe and the sliders fitted the spring wire should hold them in place at the base of the W irons.
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Fit wheels for testing that it runs and springs nicely.
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Jeremy Suter
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Re: Brian Morgan Chassis and Iron Mink Instructions

Postby Jeremy Suter » Mon Aug 28, 2017 4:57 pm

With a rolling chassis now done I can move on to the brakes, it will be a single side brake for this one.
Cut out the Brake Block unit as one piece and clean off the etch cusps. Then start folding the brake blocks as in picture, top right is as etched, top left is lifted up, bottom right is folded right over, and bottom left is soldered down. Once all four brake blocks are soldered in place and lined up fold over and line up the inner lever part and solder in place.
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The whole unit can then be folded over on itself, I used a thin ruler to fold round. Then soldered the two halves together making sure the brake blocks are all in line and etch cusp removed. I have also folded over the and soldered in place the brake guard loops.
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Now slot onto the two folded down fittings on the bottom of the chassis making sure you have it the right way round and on the side with the Vee on I have slotted a piece of .5mm NS wire though the Vee the Brake and the Stanchion in the centre of the floor.
I have also added some wheels to make sure it runs without rubbing. I still need to make the Brake Lever but will leave this until the end as its quite delicate and don't want to damage.
So I can now move onto the Wagon Floor which will need to be attached to the chassis by two captive 10BA nuts which are soldered to the inside of the floor.
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Turning the whole thing upside down you will see that the chassis is the same length as the body floor so it will need shortening to allow the buffer beams to be put on and the chassis is still removable. So I will cut about 2mm off each end with tin snips. you should also notice I have slotted a piece of .7mm NS wire through the two small holes in the fold down loop to keep in place the inside part of the removable W iron.
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Allan Goodwillie
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Re: Brian Morgan Chassis and Iron Mink Instructions

Postby Allan Goodwillie » Mon Aug 28, 2017 5:06 pm

Hi Jeremy, :)
looks to be a nice straightforward build so far, how much time has it taken considering it is a first build. :?:

Jeremy Suter
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Re: Brian Morgan Chassis and Iron Mink Instructions

Postby Jeremy Suter » Mon Aug 28, 2017 6:33 pm

Hi Alan
looks to be a nice straight forward build so far, how much time has it taken considering it is a first build.

Actually this is the second build, I ordered a batch of 24 etches as I have had a few enquiries and thought I ort to do some instructions for it.
As to time. To get so far it has taken me about an hour and a half.
To do the first one it took about 6 hours in total, but I was not taking photos and was not sure about everything. Brian Morgan only designed it and never did a test build. David Rothwell had, and he gave me a few pointers. I did spot a few things on the etch when I got them which were not right, so had to do a supplementary etch done which included a floor, buffer beams, and coupling hook back plates.
I also found when building the first one that the ventilator bonnets were too big, he had not allowed for the rivet plate along the top of the body so I have had to add them to the supplementary etch which is shown in the top photo.

Jeremy Suter
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Re: Brian Morgan Chassis and Iron Mink Instructions

Postby Jeremy Suter » Mon Aug 28, 2017 7:20 pm

With the Chassis and floor done I can put them to one side for now and get on with the body.

The body kit comes with a few etched Jigs to make the correct bends. I have only used the jigs marked 1 and 2 for the roof and the corners.
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Starting with jig 1 for the corners.

Cut the two large pieces out and fold up one should fit inside the other then fit the cornering pieces in as per the photograph. The part on the Right which say's fold right under I have folded it the wrong way by accident and it is now folded the other way. The two pieces should slot together. A rod will fit through the holes on each side to hold it together with a small gap for the side to slot in.
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Before the folds are made there is a small piece that has not been etched on the sides which needs to be removed, and is shown in the photo as marked with a green spot the lower side has been done and the upper one still requires removal.
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Once removed, punch out the rivets, and slot into the jig all the way and fold as shown.
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Or you could just fold round a file which is what I did on the first one I made.
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With the four corners all folded squarely fit the two ends together by slotting some .7mm wire through the holes top and bottom. and solder down the joins.
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Remove the rods when sides are properly soldered together.
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Now we have the sides and ends together the floor can be added it should be a perfect fit with only minor filing along the etched edge.
slot it in and push down on flat surface to get it flush with the bottom of the sides it can be spot soldered for now.
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David B
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Re: Brian Morgan Chassis and Iron Mink Instructions

Postby David B » Tue Aug 29, 2017 2:50 pm

Allan Goodwillie wrote:Hi Jeremy, :)
looks to be a nice straightforward build so far, how much time has it taken considering it is a first build. :?:


I have made a number of the Morgan underframes (the iron mink underframe is similar to the rest of the range) and can now build one in less than an hour. It seems to take longer to cut out of the fret than actually build. However, if you have not done one before, it takes a while to get your head around some of the folding (especially the brakes, which look more complicated than they really are) and Morgan idosyncracies.

Once you crack the first one, you are well away and the second one will be a doddle!

The instruction booklet, all 72 pages, is a necessary reference and can be downloaded from the S4 site. This covers the whole Morgan range and GWR brake variants, DC1, DC2 and DC3.

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Allan Goodwillie
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Re: Brian Morgan Chassis and Iron Mink Instructions

Postby Allan Goodwillie » Tue Aug 29, 2017 6:25 pm

Thanks David and Jeremy, :thumb

Trying out anything new always takes a bit more time, far more if you are coming up with designing something new, which no-one else has tried. I have no springy wagons so far, but intend building a few just for the pleasure, possibly for my new layout, I have about 80-90 wagons built already for that,the work having been done about three years ago, but I will be scratch building a few specials over next year and thought I would have a go at using the relatively new idea - perhaps adapting some of the chassis units available.

Now I do have to make and fit Jackson couplings for the wagons I already have and weathering, then loads. They are all NCB wagons of different types used by the Wemyss system. I have plenty of BR wagons from my other layouts which can be used for the Buckhaven branch which also runs through the scene.

I am not particularly a wagon buff, but still appreciate the expertise of those who are. When I first started in P4 all these years ago I tried to make every wagon special and did seek out the uncommon to raise the level a little, but when I started the museum in the 80's I started to batch build using kits and the number of specials as a proportion became more like it is in real life. I still enjoy assembling kits as it is one of the more relaxing sides of the hobby. I know that I have taken a short cut with many of the RCH wagons as the feeling I want is of quantity (it is a busy exchange yard) rather than everything being absolutely correct at this stage - most of the wagons on the system had a different door arrangement from the standard design.

In truth the standard types did exist on the system, but the Wemyss specific design was more common - I hope to back date at a later date to a more mixed population and include a number of one-off s - specially as the layout will include the wagon works. So I realise that this alone will probably attract the wagoners and they will possibly pick out all the imperfections! :shock: :!: I will make sure there are enough of the Neilsons etc. to make it all worthwhile. ;)

I will be down at Scalefourum and maybe get the chance to see some of the etches available and put one or two to the test myself. :D

Jeremy Suter
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Re: Brian Morgan Chassis and Iron Mink Instructions

Postby Jeremy Suter » Tue Aug 29, 2017 10:33 pm

With the body shell made up I have moved onto the doors.
They are made of a three ply lamination numbered 3 for back and 2 for the middle plus the half etched top. This gives a stepped section to the lower door frame for the bevel top which stopped water collecting.
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I have soldered one door up and filed the joins clean.
Using .4mm wire through the etched holes, this lines them up and matches the holes in the body.
I also drilled out the pop marks for the door catch on the right hand door centre and top on parts 2 and 3. This will make it easier to drill out properly later.
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Now all soldered to the body using the holes and wires as guides, the excess wire cut off and filed down.
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Moving onto the riveted strapping which runs all along the top.
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Starting in the middle of the end I have soldered the strapping to the end and will fold round the body to get the curve in the right place I will not need to shorten it as the sides do not quite meet in the centre.
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With the rivet strip in place I can now start on the vertical stanchions which are half etch thickness. These slot into the slots along the edge of the doors and note that there is no rivet strip to go under them.
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Now do not put down with the floor to the ground or you will bend the delicate solebar section.
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ralphrobertson
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Re: Brian Morgan Chassis and Iron Mink Instructions

Postby ralphrobertson » Wed Aug 30, 2017 9:05 am

There are some clever designs there Jeremy. The way of bending the corners is really neat.

Ralph

Jeremy Suter
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Re: Brian Morgan Chassis and Iron Mink Instructions

Postby Jeremy Suter » Sun Sep 03, 2017 7:23 am

Thanks Ralph.
The Corner bending jig worked very nicely, even bending round the file put the bend in the right place as the half etch corner was just right for the radius.

Jeremy Suter
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Re: Brian Morgan Chassis and Iron Mink Instructions

Postby Jeremy Suter » Sun Sep 03, 2017 9:10 am

I can now work down each side and put on the T bars.
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Cutting out the riveted back plates and cleaning up the edges, first tinning the back of the rivet plate, I can then slot the bar section through. I have only snipped off the tags at the moment as they are half etch and very thin, too delicate to file down the length at the moment. The back plate should be a bit short of the top of the bar so that it fits below the top rivet plate on the body.
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They can then be slotted into position on the body. A hot iron on the inside should then be used to solder the T bar in place. Remember there should be a small gap on the bottom to allow the solebar to be attached.
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Once all the bars attached I can clean up the T bar edge with a fine file as the body now gives them strength.
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Best to now add the solebars to stop me damaging the brackets.
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The D shaped piece on the solebar backing will need to be removed, this side is the top as slightly wider than the base. They now need to be folded along top and bottom. The best way to do this is with bending bars which will keep them straight.
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Now it's easy to one side but to do the second I used two rulers held in the bending bars so I can fold the other side down without damaging the first.
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Once the backing piece is folded the etched inlay should slot in, make sure its in the right way round. There is a small slot on the right hand side for the brake lever guide to fit in and matches the backing piece. Then solder in place again its advisable to tin first. Do the same with the buffer beams but this time the rivet over lay fits on the outside I have also put the coupling hook surround on.
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Once the solebars are made they can be attached to the body slipping between the body and the bracket, the T section should fit to the rivet overlay in the solebar. and when sure its in the right place can be tack soldered to the body.
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Before fitting properly check that chassis still fits in the gap, when sure add buffer beams which should slot into the ends of the solebars and the spigots on the solebar fits into the recess in the buffer beam. they can then be soldered properly to the body.
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Phil O
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Re: Brian Morgan Chassis and Iron Mink Instructions

Postby Phil O » Sun Sep 03, 2017 7:31 pm

Hi Jeremy

Are there any more of these kits available, please, if so could I put my name down for a couple, to collect at Scaleforum.

Thanks

Phil

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Dave K
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Re: Brian Morgan Chassis and Iron Mink Instructions

Postby Dave K » Mon Sep 04, 2017 6:17 am

Jeremy Suter wrote: They now need to be folded along top and bottom. The best way to do this is with bending bars which will keep them straight.
IMG_2100.JPG
Now it's easy to one side but to do the second I used two rulers held in the bending bars so I can fold the other side down without damaging the first.

I've always used a 'Hold and Fold' to do this.

Jeremy Suter
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Re: Brian Morgan Chassis and Iron Mink Instructions

Postby Jeremy Suter » Fri Sep 08, 2017 10:01 pm

Thanks Dave a hold an fold will do the job very nicely.


Now that the solebars and buffer beams are on, I have moved onto the ends starting with the ventilator bonnets. These are in half etched thickness and the fold lines have been marked on one side by a row of very small holes not wide enough to etch through and should be on the inside of the fold.
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When folded they can be slotted into the relevant slots in the end.
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With the vents fitted the end stations can be added. The rivet plate will need shortening at the top to fit beneath the top rivet strip. (the end with the slot in it on the left hand side of the photo). and the bottom key on the stanchion will need shortening to fit against the buffer beam.
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The sides and end stanchions all done, I am adding the door catch pole which is made from a piece of .3mm Nickel Silver rod fitted up against the etched loop. Make sure the holes for the loop hinges are re-drilled. I found it easier to use some 36 SWG copper wire to hold the rod tight against the body rather than the short etched strips in the kit. I did the same for the latch pin as well.
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next using my bending bars again I have made up the door top which is also half etch thickness with small holes for the fold lines.
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These should not be folded to a right angle but stopping just short to give it a slopping top when fitted to the body. There should be to slots by the top of the door I used a piercing saw to reopen them.
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Jeremy Suter
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Re: Brian Morgan Chassis and Iron Mink Instructions

Postby Jeremy Suter » Sun Sep 10, 2017 8:57 am

With the body completed the next step is the roof. This is where a second jig is used to hold the roof and solder on a subframe.
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The cradle and the subframe both slot together and the roof can be sandwiched in between.
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As the roof is only half etch thickness with rivets on the top I have placed some thin card behind to protect them in the roll bars.
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Once rolled to the right curve it can be placed in the cradle and the subframe soldered on. There are marks on the inside of the roof to make sure the subframe is in the right place.
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Once done the roof is checked in the body and the marks for the subframe can be seen on the top. The solder should fill them.
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Now I have added the roof straps and cleaned up the surface ready for slotting on the body.
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The cradle is used to hold the body while I solder on the axlebox stops. I have also added the etched number plate to the left hand end of the solebar.
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Now the roof is slotted on the body, chassis fitted and placed next to the one I made earlier.
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Le Corbusier
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Re: Brian Morgan Chassis and Iron Mink Instructions

Postby Le Corbusier » Sun Sep 10, 2017 10:04 am

This is the most fantastic demonstration of skills and a really useful blow by blow account of how to go about things.

Thanks :thumb
Tim Lee

Phil O
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Re: Brian Morgan Chassis and Iron Mink Instructions

Postby Phil O » Sun Sep 10, 2017 1:14 pm

Jeremy.

A great piece of modelling and an informative thread on how to put it together.

Thanks

Phil

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Allan Goodwillie
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Re: Brian Morgan Chassis and Iron Mink Instructions

Postby Allan Goodwillie » Sun Sep 10, 2017 3:29 pm

Very nice Jeremy. :D

Makes me even more likely to tackle one for myself. I will certainly have a go at using some of the chassis kits for a few specials when the time comes. Quite a number of creative solutions for different construction problems covered which would be solutions for a number of other problems. Certainly has me thinking now. :)

Jeremy Suter
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Re: Brian Morgan Chassis and Iron Mink Instructions

Postby Jeremy Suter » Sat Sep 16, 2017 8:51 am

Thanks everybody for your comments if anybody is interested in a kit please get in touch.

The last piece of metalworking in the kit is the brake lever and guide. This is the most complicated part of Brian Morgan's Design.

Staring with the lever guides, of which there are two types. One with ratchet and the other with pin lock, both make up in same way but with minor differences.
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I am doing the pin lock version.
The first fold is a reverse fold and actually folds back on itself.
This fold is not on the ratchet version.
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Once folded back on itself the two types now look similar. So the next folds are to make the lower mount to the solebar. The side piece needs to be folded back on itself and a right angle formed at the dot.
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When happy solder in place.
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Next. The top needs to be folded back to a right angle.
There is no marking for this but it needs to fit in the slot in the solebar so that the lower mount fits into the solebar.
At the lower end of the guide the dot above the lower mounting bracket should fold forward to 180 degree (I've only done 90 degree in the photo) and then 90 degree on the other side.
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Now to 180 degree.
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The front can now be folded back I used a ruler to fold against.
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Now fold the front top to the back and then fold upwards to fit the back. When happy that the front is parallel to the back solder in place, and remove any extra length.
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The ratchet version does not fold to the top but curves to meet the top and of coarse the ratchet needs to be folded in.
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The lever can be formed there is a fold guide on the etch and fold lines on the lever itself of which the first fold nearest the pivot folds back rather than forward so I have put some solder over it for strength the folds at the handle end are marked by dots and are bends rather than folds.
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Once done all can be added to the body. I have only soldered the lever to the guide, and the guide to the body. The bracket on the guide has been folded back and shortened to meet the W iron but not soldered to it, so the chassis can be removed for painting.
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I have supplied Bill Bedford's Mousa Models 3D printed axlebox springs and buffers to finish the wagon off. These are a little brittle but when added to the model should be more alright. I had to clean out the axlebox back to allow the sprung bearings to spring. Buffer heads I will add after painting to make sure the still spring.
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Couplings are of your choice as no couplings are in the kit. My choice is AJ and have fitted them by soldering on at the opposite end of the chassis droppers still need to be added.
IMG_2160.JPG

All that needs to be done now is paint and weight.

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David B
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Re: Brian Morgan Chassis and Iron Mink Instructions

Postby David B » Sun Sep 17, 2017 3:59 pm

Going back a bit to the solebars, I have been making a batch of a dozen Iron Mink and DC1 underframes, both of which are 9' wheelbase. The GW very conveniently had holes in their solebars which I used to make a simple jig to help construction.

The jig is slightly narrower than the inside width of the solebar and made from a couple of layers of copper clad (soldered together), which does not act as a heat sink. I drilled a couple of 1mm holes using a solebar as a guide to take two short lengths of n/s wire which I blackened with a felt pen. I chamfered the tops of the pegs in a Dremel.
IMG_2894crw.jpg
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The overlay, which had been tinned whilst still on the fret, is put on the pegs and some more flux put on . . .
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IMG_2895crw.jpg (31.69 KiB) Viewed 3920 times

. . . then adding the solebar (not tinned) which has been folded, but not too tightly, in a Hold'n'Fold. You can see the notch Jeremy refers to for the lever guide. There is a notch in the overlay which, of course, must be lined up.
IMG_2896crw.jpg
IMG_2896crw.jpg (21.23 KiB) Viewed 3920 times

The reason for the jig is because I prefer to solder from the back wherever possible, in this case using an RSU, to leave the face clean and I have made 24 solebars!
IMG_2897crw.jpg
IMG_2897crw.jpg (32.55 KiB) Viewed 3920 times

Finally, I removed the solebar from the jig and tightened the folds with parallel (Maun) pliers. With this length of solebar I worked from each end, the image showing the first end being tightened.
IMG_2898crw.jpg
IMG_2898crw.jpg (32.44 KiB) Viewed 3920 times

Jeremy Suter
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Re: Brian Morgan Chassis and Iron Mink Instructions

Postby Jeremy Suter » Sun Sep 17, 2017 6:52 pm

Thanks David
That is a nice Jig idea.

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Craig Warton
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Re: Brian Morgan Chassis and Iron Mink Instructions

Postby Craig Warton » Mon Sep 18, 2017 9:49 pm

Jeremy,

When you mentioned that you would put instructions up on your work bench thread I did not quite anticipate this. Absolutely brilliant. Superb instructions and one of the very best blow by blow wagon builds I have ever seen. I have a few wagons to finish off first, but I suspect that one of my 6 Iron Minks will be hitting the work bench shortly, for this is incredibly inspirational.

David, a excellent idea for a jig and something I will set up for myself. Simple and elegant and very tidy soldering, I expect nothing less from you!

Thank you for taking the time to bring Brians iron Mink to fruition and making it available to a wider audience.

Regards,

Craig W

Jeremy Suter
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Re: Brian Morgan Chassis and Iron Mink Instructions

Postby Jeremy Suter » Thu Sep 21, 2017 10:08 pm

Hi Craig
Thanks for the comment. Hope you find them easy to build.
Anyway now all painted waiting for weathering.
IMG_2167.JPG

GWSGMember
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Re: Brian Morgan Chassis and Iron Mink Instructions

Postby GWSGMember » Fri Sep 22, 2017 11:09 am

As Membership Secretary of the Great Western Study Group I learnt yesterday that Brian had passed away recently.

I hope this Mink and his underframes continue to shine a light on his efforts on behalf of all GW Modellers out there.

Ken

Jeremy Suter
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Re: Brian Morgan Chassis and Iron Mink Instructions

Postby Jeremy Suter » Fri Sep 22, 2017 7:05 pm

Thanks Ken
Brian Morgan's Kits and bits etc. Etch Tools are all now owned by me so will not be disappearing.
Jeremy Suter


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