GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis
Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis
Just curious about the wheelbase as (shame!) the kit might be useful for something else. I found a diagram on the Internet suggesting 8ft but would appreciate confirmation.
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Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis
Hi Jeremy,
I didn't realise you were planning a body as well.
And then the internals, my mind races with thoughts of walk-over seats, coal bunker, quadrant reverser and 3D printed boiler moulding to slip over the motor.
As far as the underframe is concerned, would it help if I sent you the Mallard body etch?
Steve
I didn't realise you were planning a body as well.
And then the internals, my mind races with thoughts of walk-over seats, coal bunker, quadrant reverser and 3D printed boiler moulding to slip over the motor.
As far as the underframe is concerned, would it help if I sent you the Mallard body etch?
Steve
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Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis
Jeremy Suter wrote:I will be releasing an undeframe and body kit later. Possibly as seperate kits but not sure yet the Underframe and Bogie etches are now almost complete, and I am midway through drawing the body.
Fantastic news!
Nick Allport
CLAG
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Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis
I have just spent the last few days making up some Chassis Kits ready for Wells show next week end they are £90 each.
I only have 12 kits at the moment plenty more etches but need castings and gearboxes to complete.
I only have 12 kits at the moment plenty more etches but need castings and gearboxes to complete.
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Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis
Here's a request for two but unfortunately not at Railwells.
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Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis
Jeremy Suter wrote:.....they are £90 each.
IMG_4511.JPG
Ooof!
The dawn of the £100 chassis kit is not far away.
...I only have 12 kits at the moment plenty more etches but need castings and gearboxes to complete.
How will you be dealing with non-show orders
That would be an ecumenical matter.
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Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis
Postby Armchair Modeller » Tue Jul 31, 2018 9:24 am
Just curious about the wheelbase as (shame!) the kit might be useful for something else. I found a diagram on the Internet suggesting 8ft but would appreciate confirmation.
Hi Richard
You don't say if you mean the Motor Bogie or the Other end.
All the GWR Motor Bogies were 8'. My railmotor has a 8' fishbelly for the other end.
I have also drawn the 9' Fishbelly. Just working on the castings and also waiting for the steps etch to arrive these bogies were used on some of the longer Railmotors.
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Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis
Hi Ivan
All you need to buy extra are the wheels. If you want a kit PM me.
All you need to buy extra are the wheels. If you want a kit PM me.
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Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis
Jeremy Suter wrote:.... If you want a kit PM me.
PM sent
That would be an ecumenical matter.
Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis
Jeremy Suter wrote:
Postby Armchair Modeller » Tue Jul 31, 2018 9:24 am
Just curious about the wheelbase as (shame!) the kit might be useful for something else. I found a diagram on the Internet suggesting 8ft but would appreciate confirmation.
Hi Richard
You don't say if you mean the Motor Bogie or the Other end.
All the GWR Motor Bogies were 8'. My railmotor has a 8' fishbelly for the other end.
I have also drawn the 9' Fishbelly. Just working on the castings and also waiting for the steps etch to arrive these bogies were used on some of the longer Railmotors.
Hi,
Sorry Jeremy - I meant the motor bogie. Many thanks for your reply. I will PM you to order one.
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Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis
Hi Jeremy,
On subject of wheels, for the Railmotor engine chassis I assume we will need 2 pairs of Alan Gibson 4S47L (for P4), but what should we order for the trailing bogie?
Are they 14mm Mansell or plain disc coach wheels?
Would help to know as I might as well order them all at the same time.
Steve
On subject of wheels, for the Railmotor engine chassis I assume we will need 2 pairs of Alan Gibson 4S47L (for P4), but what should we order for the trailing bogie?
Are they 14mm Mansell or plain disc coach wheels?
Would help to know as I might as well order them all at the same time.
Steve
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Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis
On subject of wheels, for the Railmotor engine chassis I assume we will need 2 pairs of Alan Gibson 4847L (for P4), but what should we order for the trailing bogie?
Are they 14mm Mansell or plain disc coach wheels?
Hi Steve
Correct for the Driving wheels.
Good question on the bogie, I assumed they would all be Mansell but checking photos, I found that it depends on which Railmotor you are building. The early Matchboard vehicles had Mansell wheels, but the later ones had Plain Disc. Certainly the Gloucester built diagram Q's and the 70' vehicles had Plain Disc wheels.
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Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis
Jeremy Suter wrote:On subject of wheels, for the Railmotor engine chassis I assume we will need 2 pairs of Alan Gibson 4847L (for P4), but what should we order for the trailing bogie?
Are they 14mm Mansell or plain disc coach wheels?
Hi Steve
Correct for the Driving wheels.
Good question on the bogie, I assumed they would all be Mansell but checking photos, I found that it depends on which Railmotor you are building. The early Matchboard vehicles had Mansell wheels, but the later ones had Plain Disc. Certainly the Gloucester built diagram Q's and the 70' vehicles had Plain Disc wheels.
The preserved 93 has disc wheels and what looks like an American 9ft bogie, so that's what I'll be following!
That would be an ecumenical matter.
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Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis
Jeremy,
On your "instructions" topic there is a step concerning the wheels where you state:-
What do you mean by "pinned"?
Steve
On your "instructions" topic there is a step concerning the wheels where you state:-
Slot the Hornblocks onto the axle the correct way round so that the spring guide will be nearest the middle and face centre when slotted into the chassis. Now check they fit in the chassis and run freely. This will have to be quick check as the crank pin fouls the Slidebars. I had to put a 6 thou washed on each end of the axle to remove excess slop.
The right hand side leads when quartering the wheels.
Once gauged and quartered I have pinned them so that this axle is now fixed
Repeat for the drive axle but adding the motor gear box first so that it will slot up into the chassis.
I will not pin these wheels until I am happy with running.
What do you mean by "pinned"?
Steve
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Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis
Hi Steve
Thanks for asking about the wheels being "Pinned " Good question I didn't think to explain it when writing the instructions.
Pinning the Wheels is making sure that they will not move on the axle so that they do not loose there quartering.
This can be done in two ways by either drilling through the boss and axle and putting a wire in.
Or my prefered way is to put a small slot in the axle so that when the wheels are on, I can drill a .45 mm hole between the axle and the plastic wheel centre so that a .45mm wire can be slotted in so that the wheel will not slipe round the axle.
Thanks for asking about the wheels being "Pinned " Good question I didn't think to explain it when writing the instructions.
Pinning the Wheels is making sure that they will not move on the axle so that they do not loose there quartering.
This can be done in two ways by either drilling through the boss and axle and putting a wire in.
Or my prefered way is to put a small slot in the axle so that when the wheels are on, I can drill a .45 mm hole between the axle and the plastic wheel centre so that a .45mm wire can be slotted in so that the wheel will not slipe round the axle.
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Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis
Payment sent for one kit initially
That would be an ecumenical matter.
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Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis
Hi Jeremy,
I have not started my build yet, I've been reading the instructions thoroughly to get acquainted with everything before I make a blunder.
The etches look too good to spoil!
At the end of the instructions for the chassis, you state:-
Did you make a jig to get them exactly 10.4mm apart?
Steve
I have not started my build yet, I've been reading the instructions thoroughly to get acquainted with everything before I make a blunder.
The etches look too good to spoil!
At the end of the instructions for the chassis, you state:-
For this 4 milled posts are supplied. They need the corners rounding and the hole in the bottom drilling out to .7mm for a .7mm wire to be soldered in a starter hole has been made. They need to be soldered to the Underframe 10.4mm apart. Now the height should be adjusted to suit.
Did you make a jig to get them exactly 10.4mm apart?
Steve
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Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis
Hi Steve
Good Question. I hadn't thought about people using the Mallard Bodies.
So the short answer is No, but on the Underframe etch which is now ready for a production run. There are two holes and rivet overlays at the right spacings to mount the suspension Brackets to. I originally thought to fit a rod to the Bracket to fit to the Underframe, but I have not done it on the test Build.
Good Question. I hadn't thought about people using the Mallard Bodies.
So the short answer is No, but on the Underframe etch which is now ready for a production run. There are two holes and rivet overlays at the right spacings to mount the suspension Brackets to. I originally thought to fit a rod to the Bracket to fit to the Underframe, but I have not done it on the test Build.
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Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis
I would suggest mounting the posts on the solebar last. Make the bogie and suspension bracket, fit the posts to the bracket and then match them to the underframe.
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Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis
CornCrake wrote:Hi Jeremy,
I have not started my build yet, I've been reading the instructions thoroughly to get acquainted with everything before I make a blunder.
The etches look too good to spoil!
Almost enough parts to build two motor bogies.
At the end of the instructions for the chassis, you state:-For this 4 milled posts are supplied. They need the corners rounding and the hole in the bottom drilling out to .7mm for a .7mm wire to be soldered in a starter hole has been made. They need to be soldered to the Underframe 10.4mm apart. Now the height should be adjusted to suit.
Wait now.... you got instructions with your kit? Mine must be missing....
That would be an ecumenical matter.
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Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis
Hi Horsetan,
The instructions were not with the kit but the ones Jeremy published on here:
https://www.scalefour.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=132&t=5928&p=62221&hilit=gwr+instructions#p61785
Steve
The instructions were not with the kit but the ones Jeremy published on here:
https://www.scalefour.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=132&t=5928&p=62221&hilit=gwr+instructions#p61785
Steve
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Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis
CornCrake wrote:Hi Horsetan,
The instructions were not with the kit but the ones Jeremy published on here:
https://www.scalefour.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=132&t=5928&p=62221&hilit=gwr+instructions#p61785
Think I'd better print those out.
That would be an ecumenical matter.
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Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis
I have recently received some 3'11" wheels from Alan Gibson for the motor bogie, but they are without crankpin holes, just an indent on the front surface as a position guide.
It looks as though I am in need of a crankpin drilling jig as described by Will L here https://www.scalefour.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=8522#p8522, but suitable for an 8" throw.
Does anyone know if such a beast is currently available, or where I might get one made?
Steve
It looks as though I am in need of a crankpin drilling jig as described by Will L here https://www.scalefour.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=8522#p8522, but suitable for an 8" throw.
Does anyone know if such a beast is currently available, or where I might get one made?
Steve
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Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis
Could you not make a simple jig yourself? I made one for my Gibson wheels that had dimples ....
My method was quite crude but has been successful.
I used an off cut of milled brass (I soldered together two pieces of an old set of K's frames to gain some thickness). I drilled an axle hole to house over the wheel axle and then drilled a pilot hole offset the correct distance for the crank pin.
I then drilled the crank hole (located by eye over the dimple) through the pilot hole and into the wheel using a pin vice.
The pilot hole and axle hole were drilled using a Dremel held in a stand (I don't have a pillar drill yet) which kept the holes pretty vertical. The pilot hole acted as a guide for the drill in the pin vice (both for location and verticality) and the accuracy has worked pretty well for me.
Alternatively, you could use Allan Goodwillie's jig a description of how to make is found here .... its the 20th post down
https://www.scalefour.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=666
My method was quite crude but has been successful.
I used an off cut of milled brass (I soldered together two pieces of an old set of K's frames to gain some thickness). I drilled an axle hole to house over the wheel axle and then drilled a pilot hole offset the correct distance for the crank pin.
I then drilled the crank hole (located by eye over the dimple) through the pilot hole and into the wheel using a pin vice.
The pilot hole and axle hole were drilled using a Dremel held in a stand (I don't have a pillar drill yet) which kept the holes pretty vertical. The pilot hole acted as a guide for the drill in the pin vice (both for location and verticality) and the accuracy has worked pretty well for me.
Alternatively, you could use Allan Goodwillie's jig a description of how to make is found here .... its the 20th post down
https://www.scalefour.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=666
Tim Lee
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Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis
Hi Tim,
Thanks for your suggestion.
I will give it a try, but without a pillar drill don't hold out much hope in getting the holes vertical/parallel.
I've also found this suggestion:- https://www.scalefour.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=2019&start=50#p18358
The required crankpin throw is 8" which equates to 2.6mm, will have to see how accurately I can measure & mark up.
Steve
Thanks for your suggestion.
I will give it a try, but without a pillar drill don't hold out much hope in getting the holes vertical/parallel.
I've also found this suggestion:- https://www.scalefour.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=2019&start=50#p18358
The required crankpin throw is 8" which equates to 2.6mm, will have to see how accurately I can measure & mark up.
Steve
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