GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis
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Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis
Not Done much since Scaleforum. I had intended to do the instructions for the Under frame but I started building and realised I had just given myself a lesson in how not to build it.that is i put it together in the wrong order.
Anyway had one of the layout boards out this afternoon although only track at the moment so I put the railmotor through the point work and it runs well. can be viewed at
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Y73VuLWpEE
Anyway had one of the layout boards out this afternoon although only track at the moment so I put the railmotor through the point work and it runs well. can be viewed at
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Y73VuLWpEE
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Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis
That run's sweet Jeremy. Nice work.
Al.
Al.
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Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis
Good to see another outing for your chassis Jeremy! I enjoyed the valve gear motion especially at the slower speeds.
Is that an 8' or a 9' trailing bogie?
Is that an 8' or a 9' trailing bogie?
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Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis
Post by CornCrake » Mon Oct 29, 2018 10:06 am
Good to see another outing for your chassis Jeremy! I enjoyed the valve gear motion especially at the slower speeds.
Is that an 8' or a 9' trailing bogie?
Still running on the 9' trailing bogie will be ordering an 8' pre production test etch next.
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Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis
I thought it looked a bit long. 4mm makes all the difference!
As far as the motor bogie is concerned any idea what radius curves the P4 version can cope with now?
As far as the motor bogie is concerned any idea what radius curves the P4 version can cope with now?
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Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis
Post by CornCrake » Tue Oct 30, 2018 10:05 am
As far as the motor bogie is concerned any idea what radius curves the P4 version can cope with now?
The railmotor in the video is running through 1:5 and 1:6 turnouts. Not sure how this equates to radius.
It does derail on the turnout at the back which is 1:4.5, and was not run through. The derailment is caused by not enough room in the hole in the underframe for it to rotate any further, the pickups plate was catching the footplate. The production underframe has a bigger hole so when I've finished it I will try through the tighter turnout.
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Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis
CornCrake wrote:I thought it looked a bit long. 4mm makes all the difference!
As far as the motor bogie is concerned any idea what radius curves the P4 version can cope with now?
A 4 wheel bogie like this will, of itself, go round sharper curves than any P4 modeller is likely to want to lay. The constraint is not the bogie itself, its the clearances in the body above, and how far this will allow the bogie to rotate, as Jeremy has pointed out.
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Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis
Will L wrote:
A 4 wheel bogie like this will, of itself, go round sharper curves than any P4 modeller is likely to want to lay. The constraint is not the bogie itself, its the clearances in the body above
Or in our case Mounted.
The Dean Suspension Posts and Beams may foul the Slide Bar Mount or and the Brakes. Luckily so far so good they don't, but this may not be the case when I fit the new underframe and try it round the 1:4.5 angle turnout.
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Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis
I am about half way through the footplate production etch build for the instructions, but not had much time to complete it lately.
Just arrived from the etchers the 8' Fishbelly Bogie production etch.
I had a spare corner on the sheet which I have used as a test for a Screw Link coupling not sure about the length of the links at the moment it looked fine on the drawing but a little short on the etch but that can soon be remedied I also added to this a small etch of extra parts from the valve gear for the delicate parts.
The drawing of the body is nearly finished ready for its first test etch. Just need to draw the small fittings like steps lamp irons water filler cap hinges and windscreen wipers. Once that is built I can move onto the roof seats and any other interior parts.
I am posting a couple of pictures of my long .5mm drill in action. My fingers are pushing down the tip, bending the drill so that is actually going into the rail and the blade straight, and not at an angle. This is so that I can put the wire in that folds down into the Brian Morgan turnout operating unit under the sleepers.
The long handle is very useful so that I can twist it carefully so that the drill flexes without snapping and without catching my fingers on the track or board. a scriber was used to mark the rail for the drill to catch in, and a drop of spit on the tip to lubricate it and help stop it loosing the tip in the hole.
Just arrived from the etchers the 8' Fishbelly Bogie production etch.
I had a spare corner on the sheet which I have used as a test for a Screw Link coupling not sure about the length of the links at the moment it looked fine on the drawing but a little short on the etch but that can soon be remedied I also added to this a small etch of extra parts from the valve gear for the delicate parts.
The drawing of the body is nearly finished ready for its first test etch. Just need to draw the small fittings like steps lamp irons water filler cap hinges and windscreen wipers. Once that is built I can move onto the roof seats and any other interior parts.
I am posting a couple of pictures of my long .5mm drill in action. My fingers are pushing down the tip, bending the drill so that is actually going into the rail and the blade straight, and not at an angle. This is so that I can put the wire in that folds down into the Brian Morgan turnout operating unit under the sleepers.
The long handle is very useful so that I can twist it carefully so that the drill flexes without snapping and without catching my fingers on the track or board. a scriber was used to mark the rail for the drill to catch in, and a drop of spit on the tip to lubricate it and help stop it loosing the tip in the hole.
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Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis
Once that is built I can move onto the roof seats and any other interior parts
Can't wait for the roof seats - must have been pretty windy up there ...
David L-T
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Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis
Just for interest, Kernow have an update on their railmotor in their latest weekly newsletter.
can't post a link here as it was emailed to me.
steve
can't post a link here as it was emailed to me.
steve
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Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis
Your fish bellies are looking good!
Although I have made a start on the motor bogie, I have spent afternoon packing all my WIP modelling away prior to a couple of house moves!
A to B to C, as C is not ready yet!
Which means I will have to be content with just reading about modelling for a while .
Steve
Although I have made a start on the motor bogie, I have spent afternoon packing all my WIP modelling away prior to a couple of house moves!
A to B to C, as C is not ready yet!
Which means I will have to be content with just reading about modelling for a while .
Steve
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Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis
Very intrigued by your long 0.5mm drill. Evidently a long piece of steel rod; but how is the drill attached to it? Is that a collet on the end, or is there some other connection? It seems like the sort of thing I wouldn't need very often, but when I did need it I would need It badly.
Allan F
Allan F
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Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis
Post by allanferguson » Fri Nov 23, 2018 6:15 pm
Very intrigued by your long 0.5mm drill. Evidently a long piece of steel rod; but how is the drill attached to it? Is that a collet on the end, or is there some other connection? It seems like the sort of thing I wouldn't need very often, but when I did need it I would need It badly.
Allan F
Hi Allan
On the end of the long 1/8th steel rod is attached a collet by a grub screw luckily the collet had a 1/8th inch hole in the end and is only about 7.5mm in diameter so good for getting into low places like on the layout trackwork. I bought 10 of these collets with different centres on ebay several years ago.
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Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis
After a long wait the Diagram Q body first test etch has been received at first glace looks good.
Both side shown as when the backing is folded down the glazing will hopefully slot in between the layers.
Also etched again is the Diagram V2 Parcels Van with both 3 point compensation and sprung W Irons.
Just looking for time to have a go at finishing the production underframe and bogie.
Both side shown as when the backing is folded down the glazing will hopefully slot in between the layers.
Also etched again is the Diagram V2 Parcels Van with both 3 point compensation and sprung W Irons.
Just looking for time to have a go at finishing the production underframe and bogie.
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Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis
Looking forward to watching the Railmotor body go together.
This will truely be a model that reflects 21st century modelling.
Ken
This will truely be a model that reflects 21st century modelling.
Ken
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Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis
JackBlack wrote:Excellent. There goes my January bonus...
That would be an ecumenical matter.
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Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis
Started on the Body
Cut out the ends first as these need to be folded to form the shape as the fold is very close to the window I ran a three square file along the fold lines on the back to weaken them then soldered the window frames in to strengthen the front before folding to shape.
With the front done I moved onto the Internal Sliding Doors. They are handed with a small hole for the door handle which denotes which way round the go.
I tinned the window frames first then soldered in place and any excess solder cleaned off with a fibre brush.
Then making sure inside has been cleaned of any excess solder. before tinning the fold over side where it meets the front.
With the inside tinned and folded over. This needs to be soldered together. Not an easy job as the rate of expansion distorts the front. I found the best way was to solder as much as possible and then put it between two steel rules with a clamp on and baked it in the oven at 220 degrees for 20 minutes which took out all the stresses out and flattened it again.
Once cooked and allowed to cool its cleaned up with a fibre brush.
At this point I have folded the lower section under which also needed the fold line weakening with a file so that the fold bent in the right place rather then the above the bead line on the front. I formed the solebar by rolling round a steel rod then soldered the ends on. There is an end form shape soldered to the back of the end to make sure the ends are folded to the correct angles.
I have now cut the windows out of overhead projector acetate sheet and slotted into the gap between the front and back. These can be put to one side till painted.
Cut out the ends first as these need to be folded to form the shape as the fold is very close to the window I ran a three square file along the fold lines on the back to weaken them then soldered the window frames in to strengthen the front before folding to shape.
With the front done I moved onto the Internal Sliding Doors. They are handed with a small hole for the door handle which denotes which way round the go.
I tinned the window frames first then soldered in place and any excess solder cleaned off with a fibre brush.
Then making sure inside has been cleaned of any excess solder. before tinning the fold over side where it meets the front.
With the inside tinned and folded over. This needs to be soldered together. Not an easy job as the rate of expansion distorts the front. I found the best way was to solder as much as possible and then put it between two steel rules with a clamp on and baked it in the oven at 220 degrees for 20 minutes which took out all the stresses out and flattened it again.
Once cooked and allowed to cool its cleaned up with a fibre brush.
At this point I have folded the lower section under which also needed the fold line weakening with a file so that the fold bent in the right place rather then the above the bead line on the front. I formed the solebar by rolling round a steel rod then soldered the ends on. There is an end form shape soldered to the back of the end to make sure the ends are folded to the correct angles.
I have now cut the windows out of overhead projector acetate sheet and slotted into the gap between the front and back. These can be put to one side till painted.
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Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis
With both sides done and attached.
I moved onto the partitions. This is where I came to find errors, firstly the partitions are too wide I forgot to take off the thickness of the sides so an afternoons filing to get them to fit. Also the slots for the doors were on the wrong side so they had to put on in reverse so that the doors would fit. The slot needs to go to the top so that the doors can slide in.
Starting at the centre doors there are fronts and backs with a door sandwiched in between each.
The next problem was there were not enough, I was one partition short so the luggage compartment is singles at each end. I shall add the missing bits to the interior and roof etch. Which means I can redraw the wrong parts for checking without running this etch again.
Now to add the doors. At this point I have decided to make the diagram Q1 body rather than the Diagram Q as originally thought. The only difference between them are the doors. As when I looked at the doors the fold down window backs on the double doors was offset by 1mm on one side, how it happened I don't know as the other side was fine.
All doors fitted and hinges slotted in.
Just need to add the small parts now, the sliding window in the boiler compartment is in, So the front steps and lamp irons and water filled door are ready to go on.
All fitted.
The only thing to be added to the body are the hand rails and door handles which I will do last, after fitting to the underframe I will make them up but keep them to one side until after painting.
Now this is the first Body test etch put together and very pleased with how its gone together. The only major error was the partitions, a few small alterations of sizing will have to be made to make the sides fold easier
I moved onto the partitions. This is where I came to find errors, firstly the partitions are too wide I forgot to take off the thickness of the sides so an afternoons filing to get them to fit. Also the slots for the doors were on the wrong side so they had to put on in reverse so that the doors would fit. The slot needs to go to the top so that the doors can slide in.
Starting at the centre doors there are fronts and backs with a door sandwiched in between each.
The next problem was there were not enough, I was one partition short so the luggage compartment is singles at each end. I shall add the missing bits to the interior and roof etch. Which means I can redraw the wrong parts for checking without running this etch again.
Now to add the doors. At this point I have decided to make the diagram Q1 body rather than the Diagram Q as originally thought. The only difference between them are the doors. As when I looked at the doors the fold down window backs on the double doors was offset by 1mm on one side, how it happened I don't know as the other side was fine.
All doors fitted and hinges slotted in.
Just need to add the small parts now, the sliding window in the boiler compartment is in, So the front steps and lamp irons and water filled door are ready to go on.
All fitted.
The only thing to be added to the body are the hand rails and door handles which I will do last, after fitting to the underframe I will make them up but keep them to one side until after painting.
Now this is the first Body test etch put together and very pleased with how its gone together. The only major error was the partitions, a few small alterations of sizing will have to be made to make the sides fold easier
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Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis
Jeremy, you are putting panelled coach kit construction onto a new level. That is looking excellent, you don't fancy doing some Period 1 LMS coaches do you?
I hate the Comet LMS panelled coach sides, by the time the panel is etched away there is so little metal left it is so easy to mark the metal - don't ask how many times I have done that!
Ralph
I hate the Comet LMS panelled coach sides, by the time the panel is etched away there is so little metal left it is so easy to mark the metal - don't ask how many times I have done that!
Ralph
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Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis
Hi Jeremy,
This is beginning to look a lot like a great challenge to start my 2019 building programme.
Just getting my Motor bogies running and then hopefully the underframe and bodies will be released by yourself so I can complete the models.
Have a good Christmas break and look forward to sending in my order for the remaining parts of the Steam Railmotor challenge.
Regards
Ken
This is beginning to look a lot like a great challenge to start my 2019 building programme.
Just getting my Motor bogies running and then hopefully the underframe and bodies will be released by yourself so I can complete the models.
Have a good Christmas break and look forward to sending in my order for the remaining parts of the Steam Railmotor challenge.
Regards
Ken
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Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis
Jeremy,
You are definitely taking etched coach kits to a whole new level, I look forward to the release of the complete kit, although I don't think my bank manager will!
Phil.
You are definitely taking etched coach kits to a whole new level, I look forward to the release of the complete kit, although I don't think my bank manager will!
Phil.
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Re: GWR Steam Railmotor Chassis
Jeremy, you've made it look so easy compared with the Mallard body!
Is there a slight tumblehome, and if so how did you form it?
Looking forward to your roof solution...
Steve
ps Happy New Year
Is there a slight tumblehome, and if so how did you form it?
Looking forward to your roof solution...
Steve
ps Happy New Year
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