GWR 59' Railmotor Body Instructions

Jeremy Suter
Posts: 359
Joined: Tue Apr 14, 2009 6:56 pm

GWR 59' Railmotor Body Instructions

Postby Jeremy Suter » Thu Aug 13, 2020 10:18 pm

This follows on from the Underframe Kit Instructions.

It is not a beginners kit, so please read all instructions carefully before starting.

I will be doing it in four parts, The main body, Interior, Roof. Glazing and Handrails. Which I will do after painting.

Part 1 The Main Body

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Starting in the middle. Make up the internal doors they are handed left and right, backs and fronts so they need to be soldered together using a piece of .45mm wire to help locate them together through the door handle hole. When they are soldered together the wire can be cut leaving a small piece to represent the handle. There should be 5 doors.

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The partitions are made of two pieces soldered either side of the doors, one with a cut out in the side and one without. They also need to be matched with each other. Two with holes in each side, one with two slots in the upper section, and two plain.

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The ends are next. They need scribing along the half etch line on the inner side with the back of a knife to weaken the fold line so that it does not distort the window frame when folding.

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They should be folded to the shape of the former.

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The inner sections need the same scribing doing as the fold line is very close to the window glazing half etch, possibly cutting almost through at the top. Then fold to match the outer ends.

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Before the two end parts are soldered together chamfer the inner pieces to make the side perpendicular to the front.

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The two pieces that make up the end should be soldered together using the grab handle holes to match them up there should be a .6mm gap at the bottom to allow the former and sides .The grab handles can be soldered in permanently.

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Make sure the slots for the glazing are free from solder so that the glazing can be slotted in later.

With the ends soldered together the former should be soldered to the bottom of the inner piece. There should be a .3mm gap below the former this is to allow it to fit inside the side.

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Lastly on the ends, the window frames can be soldered in place best done by tinning first to avoid over doing the solder and filling the glazing gap.

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Jeremy Suter
Posts: 359
Joined: Tue Apr 14, 2009 6:56 pm

Re: GWR 59' Railmotor Body Instructions

Postby Jeremy Suter » Fri Aug 14, 2020 9:12 pm

Moving onto the sides.
The sides should be cut out but leave in the strengthening bars along the top for now.
Fit the window frames in the appropriate places short, medium and long as with the ends best tinned first to keep the other side clear of solder.

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Once the widow frames are in, turn the side over.
The door bangs will need pressing out with a sharp point, they are half etch spots on the back of the lower middle bead for the luggage compartment.
As with the ends the half etch fold at the bottom will need scribing with the back of a knife along the half etch fold line at the bottom. This should make it easier to fold without damaging the bead on the front. Then the top half will need folding over by 180degrees it will be best to tin it first I only did one side but both would be better. When you fold it over the strengthening bars should be folded out of the way so they can be removed later. Also check before soldering that the inner partitions will fit in the slots. File to fit if required.
I have used a resistance soldering iron to solder the sides together and found it worked without any distortion as it did when I built the original test etch with my Antex iron. When done make sure the glazing slots are clear from solder and remove the strengthening pieces.

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Now the sides are all soldered flat the solbar needs to be formed I used a 3/8th inch bar screwed to a piece square section and then the side clamped between them and then in the vice to hold the middle and pulled round with a steel rule I used the half etch line at the base as a datum line against the square, but the bar was not much below the folded section. the bend should be in the centre of the lower panel do not over bend I did slightly.

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Now clamp the side in bending bars and fold over the half etch at the bottom. The top should be perpendicular to the fold.

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The sides now just need the door hinges fitting into the holes for the luggage compartment and the driver door.

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Now the main body can be put together, identify which partition is which. The one with the slots at the top is for the driver end. The two with holes in each side are for the passenger entrance and the plain ones are for the luggage compartment.
Using the partitions put the body together the full side of the partition should fit in the slots provided, that side is always at the driver end except the passenger door ones which are handed. The floor pieces should fit in the gaps if unsure which way round they go.

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The 12Ba mounting nuts for the underframe should now be added to the holes at each end of the body ( I had to re-drill them on this etch but have altered the production drawing.) I used the underframe to locate them in the right place before soldering to the body. I also found the buffer beams are too long on the underframe and need pairing back.

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The fronts should now be added, The front former should fit over the fold in the side and the ends should fit into the recess in the side some filing may be required to make them fit snugly the high windows end goes at the boiler end the standard windows at the drivers end.

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At the motor end there are two inner frames which fit in the doorway. Fit the one without holes in on the boiler side recess first with the slot facing the front. The one with holes in needs to go in the recess on the other side of the door with the slot facing the passengers but the base will need snipping out to go around the nuts that holds the underframe. but do not solder this side in yet.

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The motor end doors should be made next by folding over the inner window frame and soldering to the back of the door.

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Now fit the doors into the slots in the inner frame. The handles on both sides are toward the front of as they are sliding doors on the real thing. The front frame can be soldered when happy with the fit.

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Do the same with the centre doors as with the engine compartment doors. Two types are supplied single window for the Diagram Q1 Swindon Built vehicles and double window for the Gloucester Built Diagram Q.

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Now the sliding window in the boiler compartment should be fitted there is an inner frame which the inner sliding window fits in but will not hold it if you want the window to slide (I was going to make it sliding but forgot when doing the final production etch.) The Water intake door can be soldered on the panel next to the window there are two types one with a cross on it and one without check photographs of the one you are modelling to get the correct door.

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Moving back to the ends. The steps and lamp irons should be fitted to the positions shown in the photo, some vehicles had two lamp irons one below the one in the picture.

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This finishes the body section there are some more parts left on the etch for the interior.
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Mark Tatlow
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Re: GWR 59' Railmotor Body Instructions

Postby Mark Tatlow » Sat Aug 15, 2020 7:02 pm

I do like your tool for forming tumble homes Jeremy, we will be making one of those tomorrow!
Mark Tatlow

Jeremy Suter
Posts: 359
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Re: GWR 59' Railmotor Body Instructions

Postby Jeremy Suter » Tue Dec 29, 2020 9:23 pm

Moving onto the Interior

Some of the parts are on the body etch and others are on the roof etch.
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First of all make sure the floors fit in there respective places, file to length if necessary.
Now starting with the low partitions, they need to be laminated back to back so there is planking on both sides, one should be deeper than the other so if fits in the slot in the floor plate.
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The deeper length fits on the side with the bench seat.
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Now the chairs can be made, they just fold up to produce the seat. The seat back does NOT want to be 90 degrees to the base and
there should be 2 half etch slots in the underneath.
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Once the seat is made add the legs. Carefully folding them up from the base frame and solder to the slots in the bottom of the seat.
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When all the seats are made up they can be soldered to the floors. They do not all have to point the same way as they could have the backs pushed across when going the other direction.
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The next job is to make up the bench seats, these have 4 sets of legs on each side.
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First of all the leg sets. As these are 180 degree bends fold backwards, solder together and file off the fold line.
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When all the leg sets are made the seat should be folded to form a zig zag and the centre leg sets pushed through the slots in the seat. They should fit flush at the top, and against the knee.
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The end legs should now be added and seat attached to the floor.
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The seated sections can be put to one side now. The cushions will need to be added to the by directional seats. These will be a 3d print.

Moving onto the coal bunkers there are two types as these were altered during there lifetime from short with no coal bars to tall with 2,3 or 4 rails so check your prototype for correct version some short bunkers had rails aswell
It is the same for both sizes.
Fold the back part to match the coach end making sure the holes match the grab handle holes then roll the front but fold the ends to just under 90 degrees so they fit in the slots in the bunker back part. THIS IS A REVERSE FOLD.
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Solder front to back.
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I have had to file the base and side to fit inside the body and over the nuts that fit the body to the underframe but will alter the tool before etching again. now the coal door should be added.
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I folded the sides up to look like runners but its not important.
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If modelling the version with coal rails, drill out the holes in the 4 legs which should be added to the bunker. 2 in the slots where we folded it to form the shape, and 2 inside the corners where the front meets the back.
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The rails should be added using .4mm wire I have not folded it just pulled them through producing a natural arc and soldered at the ends only.
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Check that it fits in position you will have to squeeze it a little to slot between the front and the roof support on the door frame.
Remove and put to one side for painting
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The Boiler Section has to go around the pickups so it has been raised a little. The floor base has a large hole to allow this and the
raised floor folds over and fits in the slots provided. Solder in place.
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The boiler itself should be rolled I just bent it round a 12mm bar carefully and the two tabs should fit in the slot and soldered in place. I pulled the slots in a bit so the tabs pushed through easily. The boiler should be slightly tapered wider at the top than the bottom.
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The disc should be fitted in the top with it flush at the front and slightly lower at the back then soldered in place and the excess at the back filed off. This is not important to get it right as it cannot be seen through the windows when the roof is on.
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The washout plug etches should be soldered behind the holes in the boiler.
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Once done the boiler can be attached to the floor plate. The seem needs to face the door of the luggage compartment so the coal hole faces the coal bunker.
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With the boiler fitted to the floor the Reversing Lever should be made.
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The tips of the front ratchet frame should be folded back on them selves to double up at each end and drilled with a.5mm drill along with the backing frame then pinned together and soldered in place.
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Once soldered together file back the wire and form a zig zag, the lever frame should end up facing the front when fitted to the boiler and the lever should be added before fitting. The lever centre position is Neutral Forward gear the lever is at the boiler end and Reverse the other end.
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I have added a copper pipe to the hole at the back.
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There are two other levers and ratchets which should be made up in a similar way these are for the door section and are for pulling the steps out when needed. The lever fits on the wall panel behind the right hand door on the inside. and should be fitted after painting the interior
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Thanks to and Copyright David Brandreth for this picture.


So this should be what we have now.
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The boiler should have some pipework on it and have made up some pieces which will need lost wax casting although the boiler top will be resin I have purposely made it slightly squat to fit in under the roof and over the motor.
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Still some of the fine detail needs to be added but that can wait until after the roof is done.
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Jeremy Suter
Posts: 359
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Re: GWR 59' Railmotor Body Instructions

Postby Jeremy Suter » Sat Jun 12, 2021 10:35 pm

The Next stage is to do the Roof.
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This is a three arc or elliptical roof and very hard to form.

So starting at the rain strip, which is made from two layers and screwed together rather than soldered at this point. Although a slight error in the production etches 4 holes have been missed out. only two are important and are marked 1 and 2 in this photo will need to be drilled out 2mm
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These two parts need to be cut out with the frame still attached the one with the half etch slots goes on top.
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They should be screwed together first.
Then the frame only can be soldered leaving the centre until later. Once this is done the roof ribs can be folded up This part could be done earlier. Then the two missing holes can be drilled using the top layer as a guide.
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Now make sure the frame will fit to the body, and there are no high spots on the partitions in the body. Some filling may be required at corners of each end to fit inside the body ends .
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Now with the roof frame in place fit the roof mounts, these are on the body etch. So that they slot into the holes and spaces in the partitions.
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Fits in recesses between these two.
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Slots in this side.
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Now 12BA nuts need to be soldered in the recess making sure they line up with the body mounts.
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Now the difficult part is to roll the roof and two skins are supplied in case of error the instructions make it sound easy but this is really hard to get right.
Firstly roll the shallow top arc in rolling bars. I have put a piece of paper behind to soften the impact ion the etched side. If the ends roll and the middle stays flat put thicker paper in the centre section as the bars are actually bowing.
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large radius rolled. You can see the tabs which slot into the rain strip. DO NOT use the frame to form the tight radius section as it will indent the roof.
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The tight radius should be formed using a 5mm bar and angle screwed together. I use an 8mm one to form tumblehomes.
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The tabs should be pulled through the gap in the bar and angle so that the edge of the roof is just visible. I have then clamped the whole lot in a vice at the roof centre then pulled round the roof using a steel rule. over bending the curve as it will spring back and when slotted into the frame is not pulling on the ribs.
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Repeat this for both sides and slot into rain strips.
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Turn upside down and solder in place. Using the slots and tabs and keep flat.
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Remove from frame.
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Finish soldering and clean up. tabs and edges.
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Jeremy Suter
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Re: GWR 59' Railmotor Body Instructions

Postby Jeremy Suter » Sun Jul 04, 2021 9:35 am

Now with the basic roof made up, there are some parts to be removed from it. Keeping these in till now helped with forming the roof shape
Firstly the section where the boiler is needs to be removed this I did with a 3 square file on the joins at each end then snipped from the chimney hole to the edge and folded over using a file to weaken the joint before snapping off. The cross section below should also be removed.
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The next section to be removed is the cross member rib and the attached part which can be seen through the hole (I forgot to do it so had to remove it when I realised its in the way of the the boiler when the fittings are added later). I used a slitting disc to remove it.
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Now the roof panel should be shaped and added this I did with a 12mm bar rolled on my knee for the low arc and then in the tighter curve in the bar clamp.
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The roof shutter should also be fitted now with the slide frame to the rear.
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Turning the roof upside down the ends need to be thickened up with the two edging pieces they need to be rolled to fit the roof profile I did it with the bar on my knee.
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To attach them to the roof start in the middle and work to the edge then remove any excess.
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Fit to body to make sure all fits neatly.
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Now add the Lamp tops to the holes on the centre line.
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The conduit pipe should be made from .4mm nickel wire and soldered to the raised mounts on the roof and a small section should be fitted either side of the lamp tops to meet the main pipe these are soldered direct to the roof where the main pipe is on the mounts and a gap should be seen.
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Now the Conduit Junctions can be fitted to the roof in the small holes on the right hand side as you face the driving end
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Slot the pin through the hole and solder from below.
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Using the .4mm wire fit a section from the main pipe either side to the holes as per the pictures.
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Using the small half etch section to form an oval and solder in the recess in the roof panel where the safety valve will be seen. It may need shortening to fit.
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I used a file to roll it round at each end.
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.5mm brass wire should be used to make the roof handle and slot into the holes at either end, then another piece should be pushed through the middle hole to meet the handle and solder at both ends to secure.
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Using a small piece of scrap make a piece to fit below the whistle hole but not flush with the roof as we need to make the whistle look like is not fitted to the roof.
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Now it will need a .7mm hole in it for the whistle, which might be best fitted after painting
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Jeremy Suter
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Re: GWR 59' Railmotor Body Instructions

Postby Jeremy Suter » Sat Jul 10, 2021 1:28 pm

Next Job to do is the chimney and baffle. The baffle needs to be rolled to a shallow arc I did it by rolling a bar over it on my knee.
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Fit the chimney through the hole in the baffle till it stops and solder in place then solder 2 rods either side of the chimney to create the gap when its fitted to the roof.
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Slot through roof. It can be fix in place if required or left removable.
Then fit whistle to the hole as mentioned earlier again this may be left removable for now.
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Now add the shell vents they may need some cleaning up and the holes in the roof will need enlarging a little I did it by twisting a file in the holes in an anticlockwise direction so I am not screwing it in.
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Going back to the interior. The 3d printed seat cushions and boiler top should be glued in place.
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The
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The boiler top has a hole in the side which should face forward as per the picture.
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The fine detail can now be added to the ends and a picture of the motor modelled in the livery you want to finish it in would be helpful . Generally speaking if modelling in Red livery period the bell was not fitted yet.
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For those modelling the later period when the bell was fitted, you will have to drill a .7mm hole in the left hand panel to mount it. I did it by placing the bell in the right position and using a .7mm drill to mark and drill the end then slotting some .7mm brass wire through it and soldering on the inside remembering that the glazing needs to be slotted in after painting . slot the bell on and cut to length filing it back to leave a small spigot to represent the nut on the bell this does not need fixing until after painting.
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The triangle should be soldered to the centre of the middle panel slightly above the beading.
The two mounts for the pipe work from the bell have a spigot on the back when etched so the end will either need drilling for them to fit through or as I have done. Cut the spigot off file flush then solder direct to the end. The pipe should be shaped as per the picture.
The end mounts and junction box will be on the boiler fillings casting.
The windscreen wiper on this end is on the left hand side and I used some .3mm wire to attach to the window frame. The name board just needs the end folding over and slotting through the holes provided if no board require cut it out and attach each side separately.
The boiler end only needs the wind screen wiper adding to the right hand window.
IMG_6554.JPG
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Jeremy Suter
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Re: GWR 59' Railmotor Body Instructions

Postby Jeremy Suter » Thu Aug 04, 2022 8:23 am

The final Part of the building is to do the Boiler Backhead Fittings.
This is a brass Lost wax casting.
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The parts should be cut off the sprue as per the picture.
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Starting with the Fire Hole Doors this should be soldered behind the opening with the handles central.
The pressure gauge needs to fit centrally on the 3d printed top so a 2mm hole has been drilled to fit it. Then the injector holes can be drilled with a 1mm drill 8.5 mm either side of the centre of the first hole . Fit the injectors as per the picture, they will need to be cut to length.
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Next add the gauge plate.
It will need to be drilled out to fit the pipes and also to fit the handles later.
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The regulator back and pipes will also need cutting to length and should be fitted to the hole in the front of the boiler. The hole in the centre will need drilling out to fit the regulator handle. I also found that it was easier to remove the pipes to the gauge glass and fit that separately.
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The pipes can be refitted with the copper wire supplied.
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A hole now needs to be drilled to fit the safety valve which is in line with the hole in the roof I did this by fitting the part inside the body roof on and drilling in the centre of the opening. but to the rear as the spigot on the casting is at the back.
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Add the safety valve this will need to be slightly counter sunk so that it does not protrude though the roof too far. The regulator handle has also been fitted and a piece of wire has been added to that to form the control link.
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Another hole needs to be drilled in the top of the top to fit the steam pipe it should be just to the right of the gauge plate casting.
Lastly fit the copper wire to form the large steam pipe it needs to be shaped to go around the fittings The turned gauge glass can be added along with the two handles on the pipes can be fitted in the hole we made earlier they are made from lace pin heads.
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The last piece on the casting is the controls for the other end and can be fitted to the centre of the floor after painting.
IMG_7017 (2).JPG
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Re: GWR 59' Railmotor Body Instructions

Postby Jeremy Suter » Fri Mar 31, 2023 7:55 am

The final parts of the railmotor need to be added after painting,
I forgot to take a picture of the driver end controls and the windows being slide into place before screwing the roof on but the glazing should be cut to fit in the slots between the outer and inner side pieces and the driver controls fitted behind the centre window with the vacuum brake on the right hand side looking through the window. 0,45mm Brass wire is supplied for the hand rails.
I used old Ronseal Varnish which has gone a bit thick as a glue to hold the wire and the glazing which does not slot in.
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The whistle fits in the recess in the roof in front of the chimney if you have not already fitted it.
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The hand rails for the centre door should be fitted into the holes in the side of the recess then come down and slot into the centre of the steps. This hole should have a removable rod in it.
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As for door handle I did etch them but in the end I used 045mm brass wire folded over and filed flat then slotted in the holes.
Lastly the Grab handles to the passenger door and the luggage compartment can be fitted there is a small jig on the body etch to help form the shape.
Bend a piece of 0.45mm brass wire to 90oslot in hole, pull round curve and fold over this should now fit in the two holes but it should be filed flat before fitting.
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Rdawson28
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Re: GWR 59' Railmotor Body Instructions

Postby Rdawson28 » Fri Mar 31, 2023 9:44 am

Hi Jeremy, this really is superlative! How available is the kit?

Jeremy Suter
Posts: 359
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Re: GWR 59' Railmotor Body Instructions

Postby Jeremy Suter » Thu Apr 06, 2023 7:53 pm

Rdawson28 wrote:Hi Jeremy, this really is superlative! How available is the kit?


I had 25 sets of etchings done for the body and have sold 12 and I now put kits together when needed. total cost £240 only requires wheels to complete.
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bécasse
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Re: GWR 59' Railmotor Body Instructions

Postby bécasse » Thu Apr 06, 2023 8:05 pm

It's weird how much shorter it looks painted in plain crimson as opposed to the "two-tone" chocolate and cream!


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