GWR 59' Railmotor underframe instructions

Jeremy Suter
Posts: 141
Joined: Tue Apr 14, 2009 6:56 pm

GWR 59' Railmotor underframe instructions

Postby Jeremy Suter » Tue Apr 02, 2019 3:20 pm

This is a follow on from the Railmotor Chassis Instructions and the 9' Fishbelly bogie instructions, although I am supplying the 8' version in this kit the only variation is that we will be picking up off the bogie as well as the motor end.
This is not a beginners kit so please read all instructions carefully before starting.
The kit only requires wheels to complete.

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Parts List.

Large etch for underframe
Small etch for bogie
Castings for underframe including
4 buffer shanks plus springs and steel tube
Gas cylinders x2
Vacuum Cylinder x2
Lost wax casting for Buffer heads and coupling centre
Lengths of Double sided copper clad
Plastic coated wire
Hook up wire (not Shown)
10 BA Nut and Bolt
Casting for Bogie including
4 Axle boxes
4 Springs
2 Bolster Springs
Various lengths of brass nickel and steel wire (not shown)


Starting with the Footplate, Frame Ribs, Bogie mount, 10 ba nut and the Cylinder mounts.
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The 10 ba nut should be soldered to the hole on the inside of the Bogie mount and the folded up to fit the footplate.

All the ribs need to be folded to 90 degrees the long ones I have done in folding bars and cramped in the centre by the vice as the bit that needs holding is so thin.
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First fit the Gas Cylinder Mounts to the relevant half etched areas. Then the two ribs with cut out can be fitted over the top of them. Next add the rest of the ribs, I recommend only tack soldering for now to avoid distortion. The two ribs at the bogie end, the foldover faces the rear the others face the front. Once done fit the centre ribs which will hold all squaure these also slot into the Bogie Mount.
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Now move onto the Solebars, which are handed. The end with holes in goes to the Motor end and are for the motor suspension poles.
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The Solebar overlays also need to identified top and bottom, so look for the queen post rivet set which are two groups of three rivets with the bottom being the two together they should go against the foldover on the solebar .
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With the Overlays soldered to the Solebar they can be fitted to the Underframe the Ribs should fit into the slots in the back of the Solebars but may need the ends filing down a fraction so that it fits flush.

Now the ends can be folded over in two places to match the Underframe so that the buffer beam part on the footplate can be folded down to make the inner part of the Buffer beam.
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Once folded down solder in place.
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With the main shape now made its time to add in the pickup connection between the bogie and the motor ends.
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This is done with the four short pieces of copper clad and the thick coated wire. Solder the copper clad to the footplate as shown below then thread the wire through the holes in the ribs and solder to each end make sure there is none or very little slack.
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Now move onto the Water Tank.
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Match up the tank sides with the slots in the Underframe to check which way round it goes and a small piece will need to be filed off about .25mm shown in the picture with two black lines pointed at by arrows this is because the rib is very close to it. One of the ends has a hole in it which is for the motor end of the tank as it's where the water comes in.
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Once made the tank should be fitted to the body to check it fits but DO NOT SOLDER IN YET as it will be a handy place to add weight later.
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Jeremy Suter
Posts: 141
Joined: Tue Apr 14, 2009 6:56 pm

Re: GWR 59' Railmotor underframe instructions

Postby Jeremy Suter » Thu Apr 04, 2019 8:59 pm

The next Job is to attach the Vacuum Vees, Driver End Ribs and the Motor Suspension Backing Plates.

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The front ribs should fit into the slots in the Underframe and the Bogie Mount and be just short of the Buffer beam so that they can be folded slightly to go 2mm past the fold in the buffer beam.
Solder the Single Vees into the two slots in the centre section, near the half etched area for the Folded Up Vees. Then solder the folded up vees into the Half etched area. Note one end is marked with an S, this end needs to go against the Solebar so that when fixed in place this Vee can be folded over the Solebar. Once folded over place a pair of pliers against the Solebar edge and fold up again These should not be a sharp folds and needs to look more of a tight joggle.
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Now solder the Suspension Backing Plates over the holes in the Solebar making sure the holes are clear when done.
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Going back to the Water Tank add the Overlays. There are seven on the etch and only 6 required, Notice on the none etched side there are two very small holes to mark where to fold by 90 degrees.
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These now need to be soldered to the Tank and the slots should fit over the slots in the Tank. To help hold them in place when soldering the tips can be folded over the top of the Tank.
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Now fit the ribs into the slots to form a T section there are far more ribs than required as being half etched they are very delicate.
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Check it still fits to the body then leave to one side for now.
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Now the steps can be made and added.
These need to be folded over so that the half etch link is on the outside and is stretched when clamping down and soldering together. Once soldered the front edges need rounding to look like a wooden step.
Then the brackets can be folded up, when soldering to the Solebar allow some solder to fill the gap between the step and the bracket to strengthen them.
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There are no marking points to mount the steps to the Solebar, except where the Centre Doors area. Shown by two lines on the top of the Footplate. The step should be fitted centrally between them with the base of the steps against the bottom beam of the Solebar.
The Driver End step edge should be 2.75mm from the buffer beam.
The Luggage Compartment step edge should be 61.25mm from the other end buffer beam.
Lastly the Motor End Step is a plain fold up with four rivets which need pushing out and the edge should fit 5.3mm from the buffer beam again all are against the Lower beam of the Solebar.
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Alternatively leave off until the body is done.

Jeremy Suter
Posts: 141
Joined: Tue Apr 14, 2009 6:56 pm

Re: GWR 59' Railmotor underframe instructions

Postby Jeremy Suter » Tue Apr 16, 2019 3:24 pm

The next step is to add the Queen Posts for the truss rods to slot onto. They are made up of two parts each to get thickness and help strengthen them.
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The two parts should be soldered together and the half etched side is the front. Then attach to the solebar with so that it is behind the group of three rivets in a triangle shape the line on the base part should rest against the bottom of the solebar.
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The Truss rod has two small slots in an two fold over pieces which need to be folded over by 180 degrees and cleaned up so that it fits flush. When done the Truss rod should be test fitted but not soldered on at this point as it has to fit through the steps which is the next step.
Now remove the Truss Rod for now.

Making the steps is probably the most fiddley part of the model.
They consist of the mounting frame two steps Ten links and a backing link and lots of .3mm wire.
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So starting with the Mounting Frame , fold it to a U shape and slot two pieces of .3mm wire through the holes and solder in place from the inside. Now the two Longest Links with three holes in should be fitted to the rear rod at a right angle and end with the larger gap between the holes is used.
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More .3mm Wire should be used to slot through the holes.
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When fixed, the links for the Top Step should be identified they are the Short Three Hole link and the Longest Two Hole link, along with one of the links with fold over ends (Shorter one) this should be folded over at each end and a .3mm wire fitted through. The Long Two Hole link should fit to the other wire through the Mounting Frame. This is not parallel to the rear but leans forward a little to get the correct angle use the Three Hole link with the small gap forward to form the angle. The folded link should fit between the two middle holes in this link but not soldered at this point.
The next section gets more fiddly as we need to attach the bottom step.
So using the final two hole links the longer one is the base and the shorter one is the front link between the two steps. The Bottom Step should be folded up. Starting at the rear and fold up the back then the two flaps at each end down. then the step top should be folded over and slot a .3mm wire through the holes in the flaps.
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The hole lot needs to be fitted together so that the step is in the middle with the two short upright links next and the long ones on last then fold over the ends of the wire to stop them falling off. Slot the long links over the ends of the wire in the bottom of the long link in the mounting frame and fold over end to stop them falling off.
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Now the two short links need to be fitted to the top step front link by a .3mm wire, this rod needs to be removable. Make sure the bottom step is level before soldering in place. The other joints can now be soldered except the rod for the top step.
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The Top Step should be Folded up fitted between the middle links and the wire slotted through the frame and step then folded over at each end so it can be removed later to fit the hand rails to the doors in the body.
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The Top Step should now be lined up and soldered to the folded link behind and the link now soldered to the mounting frame so that the front rod can be removed without the step falling.
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All the rods can now be shortened ack to the frame. I have not filed them back yet in the picture above

Jeremy Suter
Posts: 141
Joined: Tue Apr 14, 2009 6:56 pm

Re: GWR 59' Railmotor underframe instructions

Postby Jeremy Suter » Thu Apr 25, 2019 9:51 pm

With the steps now built they need the top filing flat and making fit the half etched space in the underframe.
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Note that the rod in the Centre step is still loose I have also added the truss rods which slot through the step frame between the two steps. Bent up to meet the Solebar behind the Vees and twisted through 90 degrees (Back Up Front down)to be attached to the Solebar where they meet the cross rib.
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Now moving on to the Vacuum Cylinders and levers.
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The levers are made of a four part lamination two outers and two inners to go round the Rod in the Vacuum Cylinder. The Crank for the link to the bogies is a two part lamination and is double ended although only reaches to one bogie as the water tank is in the way to meet the other.
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The Vacuum Cylinder needs the bottom frame cutting off and filing flat. I made the pattern slightly too tall.
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Once filed flat again it needs to sit at a slight angle which leans toward the Vee and goes over the hole in the underframe.
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Using .6mm wire for the cross rod in the vee slot the cylinder lever in to match the cylinder and the rigging lever fits in the centre of the underframe with the angle leaning to the water tank on the bogie end as per the picture then repeat for the other end with the levers facing the same way.
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The next step is to add the gas cylinders there is a pop mark in one end which needs drilling out .7mm and when fitted to the underframe this end should be in the centre. There are also 4 lengths of half etched strip for the strapping.
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Place the Cylinders on the mounts and roll the trapping round a file so that it can be slotted over the cylinder and through the holes in the underframe The water tank is still removable so that I can do this easily and the solder in place.
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Then turning the underframe round the excess can be soldered and flied flush.
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Jeremy Suter
Posts: 141
Joined: Tue Apr 14, 2009 6:56 pm

Re: GWR 59' Railmotor underframe instructions

Postby Jeremy Suter » Sat Apr 27, 2019 8:38 am

Moving on to the buffer beams.
The Overlay is the next part to be added, this needs to have the bottom lip folded by 90 degree and the rivets popped out on the back first.
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When folded, it needs to be bent to match the underframe profile there are two slots in the folded over section to mark where it needs bending.
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Solder to the underframe with the buffer holes as a guide to get it central.
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Solder Body Mounting Guides to the buffer beam near the fold on the folded back part.
The front steps are the next part to be added but these were only on in later days, not sure when they were added but looks like they were only carried in the later Chocolate and Cream Livery period.
First solder lengths of .5mm wire to the buffer beam against the three rivets on the opposite side to the buffer hole.
The steps need to be folded to shape and shortened by 1mm.
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Fold the back up by 90 degrees then the sides by 90 degrees the back needs to be folded back again just above the 90 degree bend. then the .5mm wire needs to be cut to length and folded outward the step should be attached along the half etch line on the back to the wire and finish 6mm below the solebar.
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Another part only carried in the later period re the Truss Rod Loops.
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These need to one folded at the half etched lines so that the form the shape.
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Once the shape is formed they can be slotted round the truss rod before soldering together they will need shortening in length by 1mm to fit the space shown.
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Jeremy Suter
Posts: 141
Joined: Tue Apr 14, 2009 6:56 pm

Re: GWR 59' Railmotor underframe instructions

Postby Jeremy Suter » Sat May 11, 2019 8:04 am

The next parts to put on are the Motor Mounts from the Chassis Kit.
First of all the edges on the front need rounding. The rear edges could also be done as they are round on the real thing but I have left the backs as I don't want to loose to much metal for strength.
They also need the base drilled to slot in the .6mm wire, there are starter holes already put in but will need drilling out further so that the wire can be soldered in securely.
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The next step is to fit them to the underframe I have put a second piece of .6mm wire in them to go through the hole in the under frame. Sorry I have not put starter holes here as when I made them the underframe was not ready and the earlier version was not pinned.
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Now slot them through the holes in the backing plates and solder in place perpendicular to the footplate and parallel to each other, it might be an idea to use one of the spare chassis mounts from the chassis etch to make sure every thing is in the right place.
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The Vacuum Pipes should now be fitted these I have made up from .8mm wire with 36 SWG copper wire wound round them.
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Fit them to the front Buffer Beam to the left hand side next to the coupling surround.
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The Steam Pipes are made in the same way and need to go on the other side of the coupling.
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Solder to the underframe behind the Buffer Beam.
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To finish the buffer beams the Buffers need to be fitted.
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The buffers have been already drilled out 1mm hole. So first of all the steel tube needs to be slotted in the end. I have slightly squashed the buffer shank to keep the tube steady while gluing and using the .4mm wire rod to make sure its central when it comes out the front.
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Now solder them to the Buffer Beam they should fit between the rivets.
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The Buffer Heads need to be cut from the spru and faces cleaned up then the shank needs to be drilled so that the .4mm wire can be soldered in to make the tale.
Once made slot the spring on the tale and slot into the buffer set to the right distance and fold the tale over so that it will not come out. As the Buffer Heads are oval they will need to be kept level I have done this with a .3mm wire soldered across the two tales.
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The couplings can now be added The hooks are made of 2 pieces laminated together and then edges rounded. There are both cast and etched Screw parts. The cast one needs the toggle hole drilling out .3mm so that a .3mm wire can be used as the toggle. There is an etch one for the etched Screw Link.
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The last part to add to the buffers is the step. These only appear on the later Railmotors with the lower step.
They should be folded over at each end and glued to the Buffer in the positions shown.
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The last etched parts to be added are some small oblong pieces with a fold line in the middle. Not sure what they actually are unless they are Jack Supports and only appear on late livery versions These should be soldered to the Solebars in the approximate postions shown.
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They go on both sides but I have not fitted them or the truss rod loops as modelling an earlier version.
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Jeremy Suter
Posts: 141
Joined: Tue Apr 14, 2009 6:56 pm

Re: GWR 59' Railmotor underframe instructions

Postby Jeremy Suter » Tue Jun 18, 2019 9:42 pm

With the Underframe now made there are a few small things to do for fine detailing.
The first one is a pipe .6mm rod which runs from the bottom of the Solebar at the centre of the motor bogie running to the centre of the Vacuum Vee and then running into the middle. Its only on the one side as shown in picture.
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The next one is the feed pipes for the gas lamps .7mm rod which come out of the Gas Cylinders they come out of the cylinders at the centre end and loop down before they go up to the footplate I have soldered them to the ribs nearest to each Cylinder. this is easier to do without the water tank on.
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I shaped the wire with a set of round nose pliers and cut to length.
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A 1.5mm brass rod fitted into the hole in the end of the water tank running toward the motor end this is the water filler pipe from the boiler compartment.
I have also added a .5mm rod from the vacuum crank towards the bogie I have forgotten to draw the link so just bent the rod and put through the hole. I will add the link to the body etch.
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The bogie end goes through the top or nearest the footplate end, and the motor end goes in the lower end.

The next step is to makeup the Trailing Bogie which is exactly the same as the 9' fishbelly instructions I have already done.
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To finish the 8' bogie for the railmotor pickups need to be added.
There is a cut out on each side of the bolster of the bogie for a piece of Copper clad to be soldered in place so that some pickups can be soldered to it.
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The pickups are made of .3mm nickel silver wire and not bent toward the wheels yet this should be done after painting and wheels fitted. I have also fitted the connecting hook up wire and folded round and under to keep out of the way of the pivot and also so that they don't interfere or restrict the movement of the bogie.

The next step is to add the castings. The bolster springs are not shown but fit on the bottom of the Bolster.
Fit the axle boxes first there should be a gap between the bottom of the axlebox and the tie bars then the Springs can be added with no gap between them and the axlebox they are handed one end has the damper not filed flush and goes to the outer end of the bogie.
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The bogie can be added to the Underframe I used all four of the oval washers to get to the right height.
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Thread the hook up wire through the two holes in the Underframe Rib. Then screw the bogie in place and pull through any slack making a loop at the top end before soldering to the copper clad on the underframe. I tinned both first so I would not have to use any flux when putting together after painting.
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I will now take them apart for painting and mask off the copper clad and hook up wire so it is easily soldered on again without using any flux. Notice I am using old wheels for building will put new ones in after painting.
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