My apologies in advance if I am using the wrong means to communicate with the Stores Oficer but I cannot find anywhere that allows me to ask a question about the Society's products, as opposed to buying them. My question is a simple one. Does the Society's 5 Lever Frame (Item LF 5) incorporate switching? The photo attached to the item suggests that they do. if so what are they (passing contact, DPDT etc) The web site is silent on this information as far as I can see.
Sorry again to be a pain.
Hollybeau ( member no. 2466)
S4 Stores Lever frame kits
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Re: S4 Stores Lever frame kits
hollybeau wrote:My apologies in advance if I am using the wrong means to communicate with the Stores Oficer but I cannot find anywhere that allows me to ask a question about the Society's products, as opposed to buying them. My question is a simple one. Does the Society's 5 Lever Frame (Item LF 5) incorporate switching? The photo attached to the item suggests that they do. if so what are they (passing contact, DPDT etc) The web site is silent on this information as far as I can see.
Sorry again to be a pain.
The one I built up has optional microswitches, they are single pole change over.
The design neatly fits the standard microswitch body into the base of the frame, so if there are other contact groups available in the same body, they'd probably fit.
- Nigel
Nigel Cliffe - Blog of various mostly model making topics
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Re: S4 Stores Lever frame kits
I don't beleive that the lever frame comes with mounts to automatically fit microswitches but I have seen several frames with them mounted on.
I chose to use slide switches as I had had problems in the past (with the MSE lever frame) where the levers slopped about a bit and became disengaged with the arm of the micro-switch.
Using the slide switches is easy as you drill a hole though the top of the toggle, thread a peice of brass rod through this and connect this to the base of the lever. Collars of tube that is a slide fit to the rod are put either side of the toggle and solderedc in place to act as limits. It is dead simple but because mine are firmly mounted into the control panel, I can not photograph them I am afraid! If you are at Uckfield we can lift up the skirts of the control panel to have a look?
I can not vouch for the Ambis lever frame, but the one that Jeremy stocks beats the MSE one hands down.
I chose to use slide switches as I had had problems in the past (with the MSE lever frame) where the levers slopped about a bit and became disengaged with the arm of the micro-switch.
Using the slide switches is easy as you drill a hole though the top of the toggle, thread a peice of brass rod through this and connect this to the base of the lever. Collars of tube that is a slide fit to the rod are put either side of the toggle and solderedc in place to act as limits. It is dead simple but because mine are firmly mounted into the control panel, I can not photograph them I am afraid! If you are at Uckfield we can lift up the skirts of the control panel to have a look?
I can not vouch for the Ambis lever frame, but the one that Jeremy stocks beats the MSE one hands down.
Mark Tatlow
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Re: S4 Stores Lever frame kits
The SHAG lever frame from our stores has one hole in the end frames to act as the pivot for the levers and two other holes in the end frames to act as the mounting for the micro switches - which are available from Squires. All that is needed to mount these is a long rod and lot of tubes cut to size to space out the micro switches so that they align with the levers.
All the parts required are detailed in the excellent instructions.
Only one suggestion though - if you are planning a long frame (mine is 35 levers) then it is better for 'straightness' to do them all at once possibly with a brass or N/S floor to act as stiffener - really just to stop you looking along the edges and seeing how wobbly the edges can look. With a short frame this is less noticeable.
Need at least a 40W iron though...
John
All the parts required are detailed in the excellent instructions.
Only one suggestion though - if you are planning a long frame (mine is 35 levers) then it is better for 'straightness' to do them all at once possibly with a brass or N/S floor to act as stiffener - really just to stop you looking along the edges and seeing how wobbly the edges can look. With a short frame this is less noticeable.
Need at least a 40W iron though...
John
Slaving away still on GCR stuff ...
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