That's coming on nicely Guy. Your a bit ahead of me, I've only just slapped some paint on my one. LOL.
Keep Safe
Dave
The LNWR brown train
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Re: The LNWR brown train
Looks excellent Guy, I think you have captured the paintwork nicely.
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Re: The LNWR brown train
Winander wrote:I think you have captured the paintwork nicely.
Agreed. It looks very good.
Terry Bendall
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Re: The LNWR brown train
And the build... great model!
I'm on the process of finishing one of the GER 4-wheel coaches from Eveleigh Creations, and it will use your printed buffers/lamps/springs... You are giving me hopes with the teak paint
Carlos
I'm on the process of finishing one of the GER 4-wheel coaches from Eveleigh Creations, and it will use your printed buffers/lamps/springs... You are giving me hopes with the teak paint
Carlos
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Re: The LNWR brown train
Thanks chaps.
The teak recipe is described in a post on RMweb if anybody wants to try. It uses only acrylic paints, c.f. Mike Trice's method with oil paints. The LNWR 3rd is the second vehicle to receive this formulation. I've stripped my LNWR brake-3rd to repaint it in this way, the painting pictured further up this thread being not so good; also, somewhat destroyed in an incident last night.
There is a problem with the use of acrylic paints and Tamiya varnishes: they do not withstand any solvents. On the brake-3rd, I got a pressfix transfer out of position and tried to shift it with some meths, which has worked in the past on cured enamel-paint. The paint gave way before the transfer and left a horrible mess. In fact, that transfer stuck so absolutely that I had to clean back to bare metal before it could be removed. Any transfer glue that sticks better than Halfords' primer is eldritch stuff.
The teak recipe is described in a post on RMweb if anybody wants to try. It uses only acrylic paints, c.f. Mike Trice's method with oil paints. The LNWR 3rd is the second vehicle to receive this formulation. I've stripped my LNWR brake-3rd to repaint it in this way, the painting pictured further up this thread being not so good; also, somewhat destroyed in an incident last night.
There is a problem with the use of acrylic paints and Tamiya varnishes: they do not withstand any solvents. On the brake-3rd, I got a pressfix transfer out of position and tried to shift it with some meths, which has worked in the past on cured enamel-paint. The paint gave way before the transfer and left a horrible mess. In fact, that transfer stuck so absolutely that I had to clean back to bare metal before it could be removed. Any transfer glue that sticks better than Halfords' primer is eldritch stuff.
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Re: The LNWR brown train
The repainted brake-3rd and the all-3rd together. The repainting is not wonderful but definitely better than the original (see picture at the top of this thread). This is the level of consistency between coaches I can get with this method. I think it's just about OK for representing coaches built and maintained as a set.
The roof on the brake-3rd has warped and will have to be coerced into place.
Does anybody know if the footboards should be unpainted wood or painted black? The available photos are ambiguous.
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Re: The LNWR brown train
Brake-cylinder assemblies for the remaining none-brake coaches of the set, plus one spare in case I decide to make it up to nine coaches. These are models that I've previously used at Shapeways but now I can print them at home. I need to do one with a handbrake linkage for the brake-2nd.
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Re: The LNWR brown train
Guy
I can certainly see that using the printer is going to save a lot of time fitting this sort of detail if you have a full rake of coaches to do. How much of the time saved goes into producing the drawing, servicing the printer and refining and cleaning up the results? i.e. It is usually quicker to fabricate one off's the hard way, so how many repeats to you need to make it worth doing.
One other question. One of the good things about fabricating this sort of thing out of metal is that they are reasonably immune from damage if the coach derails big time and and the underframe comes into abrupt contact with the track. Is the printed stuff going to survive this sort of encounter?
Will
I can certainly see that using the printer is going to save a lot of time fitting this sort of detail if you have a full rake of coaches to do. How much of the time saved goes into producing the drawing, servicing the printer and refining and cleaning up the results? i.e. It is usually quicker to fabricate one off's the hard way, so how many repeats to you need to make it worth doing.
One other question. One of the good things about fabricating this sort of thing out of metal is that they are reasonably immune from damage if the coach derails big time and and the underframe comes into abrupt contact with the track. Is the printed stuff going to survive this sort of encounter?
Will
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Re: The LNWR brown train
Very good questions, Will.
I didn't log the time to make the CAD for this thing, but I think it was under 15 hours spread over five days, and that produced three slightly different versions. Having dimensioned sketches for everything made it a lot faster, and the shapes aren't particularly complex. Also, the work can be done when away from the modelling bench, there being no need to test-print until the CAD is complete.
Time to produce these parts is ~20 minutes labour and ~2.5 hours elapsed for the set of 6. Running the printer involves switching on, plugging in the memory key and telling it which file to print; then it runs by itself. Washing the print and curing it takes about 15 minutes, of which 5 minutes is waiting for the UV source to do its thing.
I could make the vacuum cylinder from scratch moderately quickly (if I left off its fasteners; drilling for lots of bolts would take a while); and John now includes a casting for this in the recent version of the kits. The vacuum reservoir is also easy. The cruciform crank with its mounting is less easy, and the version of that with the handbrake linkage is proper fiddly. The pull rod with the eye in it, to go round the piston rod, would take a while. Say 5 hours for one assembly, if I reduced the level of detail?
My software tells me that the cost in resin was 11p for the batch of 6, which is probably on the low side (I think I told it the price per bottle of resin when it was on special offer) but by no more than a factor of 2. The propanol to wash the prints costs money, but it can be reused after stilling, so the volume used per print is low. I'm still using my first litre of propanol. The printer uses electricity, but hardly enough to notice.
If the coach crashes in service, then the lower arm of the cruciform crank will break off. In that case, if I keep the broken-off bit I can glue it back on; I did this already on my brake-3rd, where I was clumsy during final assembly. If the part is lost, or if the rest of the assembly got utterly trashed (less likely), then I remove its mortal remains and print a new one.
I didn't log the time to make the CAD for this thing, but I think it was under 15 hours spread over five days, and that produced three slightly different versions. Having dimensioned sketches for everything made it a lot faster, and the shapes aren't particularly complex. Also, the work can be done when away from the modelling bench, there being no need to test-print until the CAD is complete.
Time to produce these parts is ~20 minutes labour and ~2.5 hours elapsed for the set of 6. Running the printer involves switching on, plugging in the memory key and telling it which file to print; then it runs by itself. Washing the print and curing it takes about 15 minutes, of which 5 minutes is waiting for the UV source to do its thing.
I could make the vacuum cylinder from scratch moderately quickly (if I left off its fasteners; drilling for lots of bolts would take a while); and John now includes a casting for this in the recent version of the kits. The vacuum reservoir is also easy. The cruciform crank with its mounting is less easy, and the version of that with the handbrake linkage is proper fiddly. The pull rod with the eye in it, to go round the piston rod, would take a while. Say 5 hours for one assembly, if I reduced the level of detail?
My software tells me that the cost in resin was 11p for the batch of 6, which is probably on the low side (I think I told it the price per bottle of resin when it was on special offer) but by no more than a factor of 2. The propanol to wash the prints costs money, but it can be reused after stilling, so the volume used per print is low. I'm still using my first litre of propanol. The printer uses electricity, but hardly enough to notice.
If the coach crashes in service, then the lower arm of the cruciform crank will break off. In that case, if I keep the broken-off bit I can glue it back on; I did this already on my brake-3rd, where I was clumsy during final assembly. If the part is lost, or if the rest of the assembly got utterly trashed (less likely), then I remove its mortal remains and print a new one.
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