Re: Tim V's workbench - latest shenanigans

[nberrington]

Here's the ticket...

http://www.highlevelkits.co.uk/
The "Flyshunter" under gearboxes. Chris' usual genius designs.

NB

[Tim V]

Regrettably, the flyshunter (as opposed to his lo-riders), does not incorporate any compensation.

[billbedford]

Yes Bill, but could he [or any of us] get his wagons all to accelerate and decelerate at virtually identical rates? If not, then wagons will either stop too soon or too late.

… Just as they did on the real railway…….

but do tell me how are these motorised wagon supposed to work in a train? are they all going to be fitted with clutches on the drive train? or maybe you think you could match the speed of a whole load of wagons to to that of the loco? and that's not even thinking about the current draw of multiple motors.

It all sounds about as prototypical as faces on locos……..

[Tim V]

At last some sunshine, and reasonably calm weather means I've finally got the airbrush out to do some painting. I didn't do any airbrushing last year thanks to the weather.

IMG_4954.JPG

IMG_4953.JPG

It's very hot, so I'm sat in the cool in the garage, with the workbench outside.

[DougN]

Looks like a nice spot to sit and do some modelling, Tim. I have always found I get more modelling down in summer than in winter. I seem to be proving that at the moment....can't find a spare hour or two to build my latest project.

[Tim V]

We didn't get much summer last year.

The rest of the garden is a disaster area

[beachboy]

Seeing your pics made me reflect as I use the workmate / laminate board outdoors for all sorts of modelling, base boards, & painting as often its warmer outside than indoors these days, plus the natural light. Which can reveal colours to be different shades than under a strip lights, even the daylight version.

But I have a Next digital travel clock that has a built in thermometer. Whilst the forecast air temp. has been 20deg., the clock thing has shown on occassion 31C, being a sheltered patio area. So have kept the paint well covered, or mix inside b4 going into the a/brush.

Once built a Scalextric layout outside in the sun. Measured the track, cut the board, then puzzled why 4 pieces of track was then another half inch longer and didn't fit.

Steve.

[jayell]

I use the workmate / laminate board

thass not a real workmate

I have one of the original cast aluminium ones that has two possible work heights as well as one like yours which is a pain to fold up for storage.

[Tim V]

You may have seen that Gordon Ashton & I are running the loco demonstration/help desk. I've been looking at the jigs available for chassis construction, and I quite like these Kean Maygib jigs. Here I'm using the EM version which is 13.26mm wide. By putting in etched washers (found some in etch scrap), I've increased their width to 14.3mm. I can't use the full width on Clutton, as building the frames that wide restricts their running to virtually straight track with my preferred Brassmaster's axleboxes. Shown here in a set of Comet frames.

IMG_5326.JPG

[DaveHarris]

Tim,

Your comments in your last post about not being able to go to the full chassis width puzzle me? What is wrong with the design of your favourite axleboxes which prevents them from being fitted to a frame spaced at the correct width for P4? Is this situation peculiar to this paticular brand of axleboxes, or are there other makes which present such problems, and if so, how do we know which requires a modified frame?

Dave H

[grovenor-2685]

Dave,
The Brassmaster's box, also used by Comet has grooves at the sides meant to slide on frame slots, so part of the box has to be outside the frames. Most other varieties, eg those from High Level or London Rd. are designed to fit flush with the outside of the frames. This sort of info is available from the various suppliers websites where there are usually illustrations or downloadable instructions.
Keith

[DaveHarris]

Thanks for that info Keith

Dave H

[steamraiser]

Tim's locos are also designed to go round 3ft radius curves that are on the two ends of Clutton, so a bit more side play may be neaded depending on the wheel base of individual locos.

Gordon A
Bristol

[Tim V]

Tim,

Your comments in your last post about not being able to go to the full chassis width puzzle me? What is wrong with the design of your favourite axleboxes which prevents them from being fitted to a frame spaced at the correct width for P4? Is this situation peculiar to this paticular brand of axleboxes, or are there other makes which present such problems, and if so, how do we know which requires a modified frame?

Dave H

There are also plenty of examples of other modeller's locos being tried on Clutton, they fail to get round the 3' curves.

Some of my older models have full width frames, but I used Exactoscale hornblocks in them, plus extra sideplay. I no longer use those, preferring Brassmasters. A drawing of the hornblock is on the CLAG sight, and is in an older Snooze.

[RJL56]

Hi Tim, you could always use MY Myford to make similar spacers to your own dimensions.
Just been to the new Myford shop and spent a virtual £4000 on a brand new Super 7. Didn't help calling into HPC half an hour later and spending another virtual £3000 on a laser! + VAT as there was someone next to me who shall not be mentioned.
Richard

[grovenor-2685]

Do you get a real lathe for virtual money? Maybe I should try that.
Keith

[steamraiser]

Keith,
The Myford shop is definitely worth a visit if you are in to lathes etc.
Staff were helpful and friendly.
All parts and prices should be listed on their web site.
I think there is VAT to add on to the price Richard L quoted.

Gordon A
Bristol

[Tim V]

Hi Tim, you could always use MY Myford to make similar spacers to your own dimensions.
Just been to the new Myford shop and spent a virtual £4000 on a brand new Super 7. Didn't help calling into HPC half an hour later and spending another virtual £3000 on a laser! + VAT as there was someone next to me who shall not be mentioned.
Richard

So, are you going to be on hand to take the lathe into Scaleforum, so I can demonstrate how to make frame jigs.... I seem to remember the last time we moved the Myford, there was much groaning

[Tim V]

The acquisition of a 2251 body from Justin, plus a Comet chassis and High Level gearbox over the weekend has prompted the progress today (on my recovery day from the show).

Now I know that High Level do a chassis for the 2251, but that would mean me learning new techniques (or re-learning old techniques I abandoned a long time ago, I don't know), so I preferred my regular method - as I explained on the demo to anyone who would listen.

IMG_5425.JPG

The frames are out and the rear one cleaned up. I'm not happy with the lack of material over the front hornblock opening, so I've cut out some semicircles to solder over top.

[Tim V]

Currently working on some Michael Clark Masokits telegraph cross arms. These things are just boring to assemble. However they are replacing some plastic ones that have become damaged over the years. So I hope these last longer!

IMG_5651.JPG

[Tim V]

I've been through a very quiet time recently, and haven't done much modelling.

Then I realised as I dropped yet another small item onto the floor in one of my brief modelling phases, that I needed one of those jeweller's aprons. I can't remember where I read about them, but they catch gold filings (for example). Save all those hours grubbing about on the floor

Well I can't afford a proper leather one, but a carpenter's apron was sitting unused in the garage, so I've clipped that to the workbench as a trial. So far nothing has been caught, but I'm amazed at the extra confidence it brings to one's modelling.

[grovenor-2685]

Till you forget about it and stand up, I hope your clips let go easily.
Keith

[David Knight]

I've done an apron up from a cheap item my wife purchased at a dollar store using velcro on the bottom corners and corresponding tabs on the bench. It works as advertised and saves a lot of time but as Keith says, you do have to be careful if the phone rings

Cheers,

David

[John McAleely]

Just wearing an apron is a big win, from my experience. I don't clip mine anywhere, and it still routinely saves many things from the carpet. Well worth putting on for that reason alone.

[Tim V]

Umm, but I find things bounce off and into the clutches of the Carpet God, never to be seen again. This way, the apron makes a bowl shape, the better to catch items. It works, as I dropped a piece of 0.33mm wire (twice) just now!