Re: Tim V's workbench

Tim V · Postby **Tim V** » Sat May 17, 2014 6:46 pm

Trying to use the LED output to drive a buzzer - watch this space!

Paul Townsend · Postby **Paul Townsend** » Sun May 18, 2014 4:50 am

Tim V wrote:Trying to use the LED output to drive a buzzer - watch this space!

If you literally mean an old-fashioned buzzer which uses a solenoid-relay type mech don't forget it will produce large reverse induction spiky voltages that could damage the feeding electronics....buffering is essential from a logic feed that was Ok just for led.
A modern piezo-electric screamer would be safer but check current draw.

Tim V · Postby **Tim V** » Sun May 18, 2014 6:56 am

I have a circuit in mind, I will discuss this on Tuesday.

Captain Kernow · Postby **Captain Kernow** » Sun May 18, 2014 3:03 pm

Tim V wrote:The lower screw was inaccessible behind the worm wheel!

An annoying situation, agreed.

Where possible, I now mount the motor with the screws right and left of the motor spindle, where this is allowed for (eg. some High Level gearboxes)...

Tim V · Postby **Tim V** » Sun May 18, 2014 6:46 pm

I completely agree.

This engine was built this way when I removed the Portescap in February 2006. I wouldn't do it this way now.

Tim V · Postby **Tim V** » Sat May 31, 2014 8:40 am

Currently down in the Garage workshop, on the Myford making baseboard joiners.

IMG_0373.JPG

And this is what I'm trying to make.

IMG_0374.JPG

John Palmer · Postby **John Palmer** » Sat May 31, 2014 9:27 am

Bet you're glad of the Myford's grunt for work like that. And the reason for the steady is?

Tim V · Postby **Tim V** » Sat May 31, 2014 10:04 am

Myford limitation, mandrel hole 19/32", piece I'm working on 1" diameter, and I'm working 6" out from the chuck.

Tim V · Postby **Tim V** » Sat May 31, 2014 4:35 pm

And here is the result ready to glue in.

IMG_0375.JPG

Russ Elliott · Postby **Russ Elliott** » Sat May 31, 2014 5:42 pm

Nice one, Tim.

Tim V · Postby **Tim V** » Sat Jun 07, 2014 1:11 pm

Currently being built is a DCC power breaker. I joined MERG recently, and this is my first kit. Gone together very well.

IMG_0377.JPG

Tim V · Postby **Tim V** » Fri Jun 13, 2014 8:43 pm

Well, it was so good, I've ordered a couple more. A very enjoyable kit to put together.

nigelcliffe · Postby **nigelcliffe** » Fri Jun 13, 2014 9:11 pm

I don't know if it made the final instructions for the cut-out kit, but if you put two turns of wire through the coil (its a tight fit with the supplied wire, but slightly thinner could be substituted), the current handling thresholds are halved to 0.75A and 1.5A depending on the jumper setting. This might be useful if using low current motors in locomotives.

I was one of the beta-testers for the DCO kit and this "feature" became apparent during the test builds.

- Nigel

Tim V · Postby **Tim V** » Fri Jun 13, 2014 9:19 pm

Not mentioned in the instructions, nor is the wire supplied :!:

Paul Townsend · Postby **Paul Townsend** » Sun Jun 15, 2014 11:17 am

Tim V wrote:Not mentioned in the instructions, nor is the wire supplied

Thats because "everyone knows how a transformer works"

Going further 3 turns should trip at .5Amp etc.
Almost any wire will do that can carry the max load your DCC power unit can supply. Enamelled copper wire is good as no space wasted on thick plastic. Just scrape off the enamel at ends for soldering. Diameter of 1mm is fine for 5 Amps.

David B · Postby **David B** » Sun Jun 15, 2014 1:48 pm

Paul Townsend wrote:Thats because "everyone knows how a transformer works"

Oh no they don't!!

Tim V · Postby **Tim V** » Mon Jul 14, 2014 3:42 pm

The power breakers have been installed, and now I've moved onto coaches. I've got a couple of the standard B sets in a rather poor maroon colour. Stripped off the paint yesterday, revealing this red plastic. Today I'm cutting open droplights and filling in the excess window. A way to go yet, there are three more bodies to work on.

IMG_0741.JPG

John Palmer · Postby **John Palmer** » Mon Jul 14, 2014 6:39 pm

Is that Airfix or Dapol in origin, Tim?

I remember stripping the paint on my Airfix pair using brake fluid - they were then moulded in white plastic, I think (like your vents?). To do away with the excess window I separated the window concerned from the rest of the transparency, glued it in place, worked Milliput into the seam and sanded smooth. You can make out where it was on close inspection, but it's undetectable at normal exhibition viewing distances.

Will these sets be to Diag. E140 or E145?

Tim V · Postby **Tim V** » Mon Jul 14, 2014 6:48 pm

I think Dapol. The problem I may have is the white plastic showing through the paint, but I'm thinking of using red plastic scrapings from the rest of the coach to coat the white - we'll see what happens.

The underframes are already done, to E140.

Tim V · Postby **Tim V** » Fri Aug 15, 2014 2:19 pm

Ready for spraying, it's a reasonably warm, windless day here. An old record player is used to rotate the bodies.

IMG_0968.JPG

dcockling · Postby **dcockling** » Fri Aug 15, 2014 3:49 pm

Tim V wrote:An old record player is used to rotate the bodies.

78 rpm Tim? :lol:

Tim V · Postby **Tim V** » Fri Aug 15, 2014 11:29 pm

This record player will achieve that!

Tim V · Postby **Tim V** » Sat Sep 13, 2014 6:04 pm

Update on the Ivatt. I'm paying a lot of attention to the motion bracket support, rather weak on the basic Comet kit. Beefed up with a substantial brass block, drilled, screwed, and soldered together.

IMG_1006.JPG

steve howe · Postby **steve howe** » Sat Sep 13, 2014 6:11 pm

dcockling wrote:
Tim V wrote:An old record player is used to rotate the bodies.

78 rpm Tim?

Those old wax cylinders are worth a fortune now.....

Mike Garwood · Postby **Mike Garwood** » Sat Sep 13, 2014 8:15 pm

Tim V wrote:Update on the Ivatt. [/attachment]

What happened to the Standard class 4 tank update I've been waiting for... :?:

And more importantly, is how did the coaches 'turn' out?

Mike

Scalefour Forum