Re: Tim V's workbench - latest shenanigans
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Re: Tim V's workbench
Don't know. The model was passed to me. Yes recent stock is much better than old stock, but forewarned is forearmed, it's in the builder's interest to check the rims don't come off.
Tim V
(Not all railways in Somerset went to Dorset)
(Not all railways in Somerset went to Dorset)
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Re: Tim V's workbench
If it has the 2.5mm conversion axles, which I would expect as it looks to have the Bachmann bearings on the axles, then I'm pretty sure that the Bachmann 3F conversion set was introduced by Colin not By AG. i have two sets here waiting to go on my Garratt.
Regards
Keith
Regards
Keith
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Re: Tim V's workbench
Many thanks Tim and Keith.
I trust you will be posting how it goes Keith?
Cheers,
I trust you will be posting how it goes Keith?
Cheers,
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Re: Tim V's workbench
Just measured the axles with my trusty callipers - 2.48mm!
Tim V
(Not all railways in Somerset went to Dorset)
(Not all railways in Somerset went to Dorset)
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Re: Tim V's workbench
Tim V wrote:Just measured the axles with my trusty callipers - 2.48mm!
Oops, yes, my mistake, post now corrected.
Keith
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Re: Tim V's workbench
I wasn't checking your figures Keith!
Tim V
(Not all railways in Somerset went to Dorset)
(Not all railways in Somerset went to Dorset)
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Re: Tim V's workbench
Project just about done, the coupling rods clout the body, but it's a reasonably smooth runner, a considerable improvement on when I started.
Tim V
(Not all railways in Somerset went to Dorset)
(Not all railways in Somerset went to Dorset)
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Re: Tim V's workbench
Update, further grinding of the body to clear the coupling rods has taken place. Tender kept falling off, so the wheels need recentering, as they wobble badly. Pro-tem, I have put some Studiolith tender wheels in. Seen here running round Clutton which is currently erected in the Garage. Clutton is DCC only, so I've put a decoder in temporarily.
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Tim V
(Not all railways in Somerset went to Dorset)
(Not all railways in Somerset went to Dorset)
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Re: Tim V's workbench
Engine passed back to its owner, who is well pleased "the beast has the gall to run as well as most home built items that I have seen recently".
Currently further work on my Collet, seen here being run in on my Bachrus saddle, that blur on the wheels caused by the 1/40" exposure
This engine will be a useful backup on Burnham, out of period but one was seen in the station.
Currently further work on my Collet, seen here being run in on my Bachrus saddle, that blur on the wheels caused by the 1/40" exposure
This engine will be a useful backup on Burnham, out of period but one was seen in the station.
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Tim V
(Not all railways in Somerset went to Dorset)
(Not all railways in Somerset went to Dorset)
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Re: Tim V's workbench
Been a while since I did any modelling, progress on the Collet had stalled on the tender. So an impulse buy at S4N sees a High Level tender kit being assembled on my bench.
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Tim V
(Not all railways in Somerset went to Dorset)
(Not all railways in Somerset went to Dorset)
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Re: Tim V's workbench
Just been soldering on the hornguides, here is the contraption I use to press the bits down onto a balsa wood base. This ensures things don't move during soldering. Components yet to be cleaned up.
Contraption courtesy of the 2mm association, basically using wooden clothes pegs with holes through as clamps.
Contraption courtesy of the 2mm association, basically using wooden clothes pegs with holes through as clamps.
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Tim V
(Not all railways in Somerset went to Dorset)
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Re: Tim V's workbench
I am very interested in any contraptions for preventing parts from moving while soldering. I have no trouble getting solder to go where I want it to and not to go where I don't, but keeping the parts to be soldered correctly positioned in relation to one another is something that I often find challenging. There is a limit to how much pain my fingers can stand. Wooden clothes pegs seem to be a thing of the past here in Melbourne and using metal clamps and particularly aluminium clips draws too much heat away from the job. Any tips in this regard would be appreciated.
David Clift.
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Re: Tim V's workbench
dressmaking pins and a heatproof fibre board works well
Connah's Quay Workshop threads: viewforum.php?f=125
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Re: Tim V's workbench
Gosh Jon, that was quick. Many thanks. I'll go to the railway room ant try it straight away on a job that I am currently working on.
David Clift.
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Re: Tim V's workbench
Or use some scraps of suitable timber. From Tim's picture it looks like the clothes pages are not actually being used to grip things although they are good for that sort of job.
Terry Bendall
Terry Bendall
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Re: Tim V's workbench
This is a link to the 2mm Scale Association article detailing the clamps. As Terry suggested, the clothes pegs just appear to be a convenient source of wood strips - the springs are dispensed with.
http://www.2mm.org.uk/mag0897/clamps.htm
http://www.2mm.org.uk/mag0897/clamps.htm
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Re: Tim V's workbench
David,
The last time I looked in the hardware store they still had wooden clothes pegs, so I'll look out some before your visit in September.
Philip
The last time I looked in the hardware store they still had wooden clothes pegs, so I'll look out some before your visit in September.
Philip
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Re: Tim V's workbench
dclift wrote:I am very interested in any contraptions for preventing parts from moving while soldering. I have no trouble getting solder to go where I want it to and not to go where I don't, but keeping the parts to be soldered correctly positioned in relation to one another is something that I often find challenging. There is a limit to how much pain my fingers can stand. Wooden clothes pegs seem to be a thing of the past here in Melbourne and using metal clamps and particularly aluminium clips draws too much heat away from the job. Any tips in this regard would be appreciated.
In UK when modellers visit coffee shops, motorway service areas etc there is a drain on their stocks of coffee stirrers.
These are some fairly fine grained wood usually in strips about 7x 150 x2mm. They are quite springy and if you wash out your coffee remain whitewood coloured and find many uses. They would work with Tim's arrangement and are often used as buildings components as well as finger savers.
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Re: Tim V's workbench
My thanks to everyone who answered my query.
Jon, I tried your tip of dressmaking pins and a heatproof fibre board but found that my fibreboard is too hard to get pins into. Even drawing pins were unable to penetrate it. With some trepidation I tried a sheet of thick cardboard and, surprisingly, it did the trick and did not singe.
Terry and Richard, after years of home renovation (which has seriously interfered with modelling) I have no shortage of timber scraps and mdf, and will experiment with them, using the very helpful diagrams from the 2mm Scale Association as a basis.
Philip, thanks for looking out wooden clothes pegs for me. They would certainly be very useful so I should be most grateful if I could get a few when I see you in September.
Paul, I have used coffee stirrers in the past but have never made the logical jump of creating an arrangement like Tim's; I shall certainly have a go now.
Finally, thanks, Tim, for your many interesting posts and for letting me temporarily hijack this thread.
I look forward to meeting up with all of you at Scaleforum in September.
Jon, I tried your tip of dressmaking pins and a heatproof fibre board but found that my fibreboard is too hard to get pins into. Even drawing pins were unable to penetrate it. With some trepidation I tried a sheet of thick cardboard and, surprisingly, it did the trick and did not singe.
Terry and Richard, after years of home renovation (which has seriously interfered with modelling) I have no shortage of timber scraps and mdf, and will experiment with them, using the very helpful diagrams from the 2mm Scale Association as a basis.
Philip, thanks for looking out wooden clothes pegs for me. They would certainly be very useful so I should be most grateful if I could get a few when I see you in September.
Paul, I have used coffee stirrers in the past but have never made the logical jump of creating an arrangement like Tim's; I shall certainly have a go now.
Finally, thanks, Tim, for your many interesting posts and for letting me temporarily hijack this thread.
I look forward to meeting up with all of you at Scaleforum in September.
David Clift.
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Re: Tim V's workbench
After a big gap while I was indulging my other (larger) hobby, I have picked up the class 2, following a comment from a certain Paul Hutfield...
The casting that supports the rear of the slidebars is not supplied by Comet, so I've filed up a representation out of brass, and I've just assembled the trucks. Next step is to tackle the truck wheels.
The casting that supports the rear of the slidebars is not supplied by Comet, so I've filed up a representation out of brass, and I've just assembled the trucks. Next step is to tackle the truck wheels.
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Tim V
(Not all railways in Somerset went to Dorset)
(Not all railways in Somerset went to Dorset)
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Re: Tim V's workbench
Turned my attention to the motor. I didn't have a suitable Mashima, or the one I had was very coggy. So I used a motor I bought from Finney & Smith many years ago. But the fixing screws were at different centres. So I made a plate to match the centres.
I modified the gearbox to take the new fixing plate.
The worm has a 2mm hole, the motor shaft was 1.5mm, back to the trusty Unimat to make a bush.
I modified the gearbox to take the new fixing plate.
The worm has a 2mm hole, the motor shaft was 1.5mm, back to the trusty Unimat to make a bush.
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Tim V
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Re: Tim V's workbench
Hi Tim,
I seem to remember seeing one of your high level gearboxes the other week, & noticing that you'd implemented a mod to make life easier fixing the cross shafts without fear of loctite getting further than it should.
Could you remind me what it was you did/do please?
Cheers, Pete
I seem to remember seeing one of your high level gearboxes the other week, & noticing that you'd implemented a mod to make life easier fixing the cross shafts without fear of loctite getting further than it should.
Could you remind me what it was you did/do please?
Cheers, Pete
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Re: Tim V's workbench
I extended the shaft, and put a brass collar on it, quick bit of solder fixed the shaft.
Tim V
(Not all railways in Somerset went to Dorset)
(Not all railways in Somerset went to Dorset)
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Re: Tim V's workbench
PeteT wrote:I seem to remember seeing one of your high level gearboxes the other week, & noticing that you'd implemented a mod to make life easier fixing the cross shafts without fear of loctite getting further than it should.
A simple defence against unwanted Loctite spread is to wrap a turn of thread tight around the axle before applying the Loctite which won't then spread past the thread (unless you use far too much Loctite I suppose).
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Re: Tim V's workbench
Does the thread get stuck to the shaft?
Tim V
(Not all railways in Somerset went to Dorset)
(Not all railways in Somerset went to Dorset)
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