LenPinder wrote:Horsetan wrote:The style of his kits are unmistakable, and the kits speak for themselves.
If you've got one!
What's stopping you? Order one from Dave, and enjoy......
LenPinder wrote:Horsetan wrote:The style of his kits are unmistakable, and the kits speak for themselves.
If you've got one!
Horsetan wrote:LenPinder wrote:Horsetan wrote:The style of his kits are unmistakable, and the kits speak for themselves.
If you've got one!
What's stopping you? Order one from Dave, and enjoy......
Lord Colnago wrote:A busy period of late has slowed things down a bit but I did manage to do a small job on the tender buffers. Those supplied have a lip on the ends, whereas the WD tender buffers don't. I assume its the same at the other end of the loco but I haven't got there yet! In the instructions, you are advised to turn this lip off, either in the lathe or in a mini-drill. Having splashed out on a mini lathe, I felt that I really ought to use it.
The problem is that the lip on the rear of the buffer is insufficient to be held by the lathe chuck. I would imagine that its little different in a mini drill chuck. I turned a piece of brass rod down so that it was a nice slide fit inside the buffer housing and then soldered it to the rod, as seen below.
The lip at the rear of each buffer has to be filed to clear the tender frames, so this was done and a quick trial fit carried out to prove all was well. That's all for now. If memory serves, the next job is to fit the wheels and set them up all at the same height. Should be fun.
grovenor-2685 wrote:I was able to hold the buffers OK in my Unimat chuck using the rear lip, then take off the lip with a file.
One thing I noticed from your photo of the wheels in the chassis is that the brass stub axles meet nicely in the centre (I assume they are Exactoscale) whereas the ones I have leave a gap of 3-4mm. which is a bit unsightly. They were a recent purchase so I assume you have some older ones. I certainly don't remember them coming up short when I have used them in the past.
I do have a GW press but the problem lies in the fact that I'm using parallel axles which have 1mm ends that protrude approximately 2mm each side of the wheelset.
Andy W wrote:You can recess the stubs? I'm sure you know this though.
grovenor-2685 wrote:I do have a GW press but the problem lies in the fact that I'm using parallel axles which have 1mm ends that protrude approximately 2mm each side of the wheelset.
Not for the Pony truck surely, they are inside bearing trucks.
For the tender I recommend fitting the wheels to their individual tubular stub axles, then adding the 1mm axle afterwards, seems to have worked for me.
Regards
Keith
PS You are pulling ahead now
Philip Hall wrote:...I am going to be mildly heretical by suggesting that, in my experience, it doesn't matter if the leading or bogie wheelsets wobble a little (within B-B tolerances of course) as they usually won't affect the ride of the engine. Ditto (usually) the inner wheelsets of a tender. However, I appreciate that a fully sprung engine and tender may be different....
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