Scalefour Forum

For those coming to the AGM tomorrow, (if not, why not? ) I will have on display the rake of Grampus wagons that run on Ravenscroft Sidings. The livery on most of these is shades of rust and I am quite pleased with the final result which is similar to iak's second picture posted on June 12th. The wagons also run on Elcot Road at the moment although they are not correct for the Southern Region but this is a stop gap pending the construction of a more appropriate set.

Terry Bendall

Terry Bendall wrote:For those coming to the AGM tomorrow, (if not, why not? ) I will have on display the rake of Grampus wagons that run on Ravenscroft Sidings. The livery on most of these is shades of rust and I am quite pleased with the final result which is similar to iak's second picture posted on June 12th. The wagons also run on Elcot Road at the moment although they are not correct for the Southern Region but this is a stop gap pending the construction of a more appropriate set.

Terry Bendall

Any piccies please Terry?
Perhaps we can compare small scale representation of decrepitude and decay...

iak wrote:Any piccies please

I will get some done.

Terry Bendall

Sorry, not much a view of the floor but I thought this image taken from a 1955 film was a good illustration on a coal wagon interior. And shows what a challenge we have.

Hmmmm, very stimulating image Rod

found a couple of images that might be of interest. A new Some new planks and some in the rain. OK the last one is probably only of interest to me and I didnt know that when I took it.

Can you tell us what the numbers inside that OCA refer to, Jim?

Afraid I have no idea David, sorry.

Perhaps they were put there to confuse modellers?

I have been trying to model a wagon I have a couple of colour photos of so I have both ends and one side the wagon is a mixture of unpainted wood and probably a colour once but since gone to a dark grey brown.

I sprayed the wagon body silver first! and once dry built up a number of layers of paint by brush of a mix of roof dirt and leather. then again when totally dry took back the paint with a glass fibre pen. The result was something that looked like wood, and an effect I have never got close to with either dry brushing or washes. You need to touch up and use a wash to finish the effect but to my mind This is the way I am going to do it in the future. I will try and post some pictures at some point.

David

No the best photo, but it gives an idea of the result of how I get the wood effect.

I do like the paint job, but I see that one of my bugbears, inoperable brake gear, has surfaced again... The number, incidentally, belongs to a diagram 188 16T riveted mineral according to Peter Tatlow's LNER Wagons vol.4A, whereas the model is an RCH 13T.

Noel

I have built quite a few wagons and take care that the brake gear is correct, so I am at a loss how I made this cock up, as it is a Masokits underframe that can only be built the correct way! Anyway I will correct it otherwise it will bug me forever.

Going back to the weathering the glass fibre bush can be used when doing rusty steel wagons too. build up the rust with a paintbrush use a dark brown not red, then when dry take the paint back with a glass fibre brush.

David

A wee addendum to the protocol for creating that battered bare wood look that I like so much.
In addition to the various Lifecolor acrylic paint sets for wood, worn wood, ageing wood, etc; a critical part of the process now is using a very specific primer.
AK Interactive do a Grey Primer/Microfiller (AK758) which gives a very subtle matt finish. It takes any topcoat and drys very hard. All the recent new items of stock have been primed with this primer, below are some examples.





These items are now part of the "spoil rake" on Mostyn - scabby decrepitude personified...

That looks very interesting Ian, will have to get some of that.

Ralph

Hi Ian,

Like those two, especially the 5 plank. Still struggling to do bare wood justice but I'm not intending to give up. Keep them coming.

John.

I found this thread very helpful:
https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index ... d-example/
Largely following the process described, which relies heavily on drybrushing, but varying the colours to some extent, I achieved what I thought were excellent results for the interiors of some of my wagons.

DT

iak wrote:scabby decrepitude personified...

Indeed. The woodwork of the Highfit is a delight, especially the contrast between the outside (formerly painted) and the inside (never painted, apart from metal items such as bolts and retaining clips). I was struck, though, by the lack of rust; usually wagons with the bodywork in this state had at least some rust on the steel framing and securing bolts, and areas such as the metal strip and retaining clips at the top of the sides. Similarly, the chassis paint [although more robust than that on the body] would commonly have faded to grey and also be showing rust, and, given its use, a liberal coating of dust and dirt from the spoil it carried.

As I model a somewhat earlier period I don't have so much call for wagons in that state, but wooden underframe wagons such as LMS D1666 or RCH 13T minerals were often little better in my period; thanks for the information.

Thank you for the comments gents.
The process for weathering is an art to me; it evolves and develops with experience and thought.
Again, take a look at what the military modelling world gets up to. The techniques are transferrable and developing.

Slàinte
Iain

iak wrote:A wee addendum to the protocol for creating that battered bare wood look that I like so much.
In addition to the various Lifecolor acrylic paint sets for wood, worn wood, ageing wood, etc; a critical part of the process now is using a very specific primer. AK Interactive do a Grey Primer/Microfiller (AK758) which gives a very subtle matt finish. It takes any topcoat and drys very hard. All the recent new items of stock have been primed with this primer

Assuming that top coat would be applied over it, I wasn't aware that the use of a specific primer would give particular advantages to weathering. Before I splash out on a can of AK758, I'd be very grateful if you would let me know what advantages it has over, say, a standard Halfords grey primer rattle can.

DT

David Thorpe wrote:

iak wrote:A wee addendum to the protocol for creating that battered bare wood look that I like so much.
In addition to the various Lifecolor acrylic paint sets for wood, worn wood, ageing wood, etc; a critical part of the process now is using a very specific primer. AK Interactive do a Grey Primer/Microfiller (AK758) which gives a very subtle matt finish. It takes any topcoat and drys very hard. All the recent new items of stock have been primed with this primer

Assuming that top coat would be applied over it, I wasn't aware that the use of a specific primer would give particular advantages to weathering. Before I splash out on a can of AK758, I'd be very grateful if you would let me know what advantages it has over, say, a standard Halfords grey primer rattle can.

DT

Essentially David, the surface of this primer, once dry, is ever so slightly rough. I brush it on and then begin with the Lifecolour wood tones. In the past, I have used Halfords Grey Primer, Tamiya primer and others. This AK primer gives me exactly what I have striven for... The results speak for themselves.