Scalefour Forum

Hi,
Which type of Ambis stretcher bars are you using? He does one for the early round type and one for the more modern, rectangular type.

I have both types here and I'll see if I can do some photos, perhaps tomorrow.

Personally I don't like using a DCC hand held controller for doing anything other than controlling locos. So good old analogue switches work for me but so does using DCC with JMRI's Panelpro. The only reason for using multiple Boosters is IMHO where the size of the layout warrants it. You can still ...

The little red cross in front of the Vee is as you suspected, there to show where a sharp pointed vee would be. It is the "Fine Point" in Templot speak. You can ignore it for building a normal turnout with a blunt nose but it does have its use when it comes to designing things like 3 ways.

Hi, Well I have used both the early and latest Ambis versions in 7mm scale (I do have some 4mm ones to use as well soon) and I would think that though the early ones were easier to fold up the end result will not be as strong as the latest versions. They do take some figuring out how to bend them up...

pp067a01ea.jpg Many years ago I did something along similar lines. I later refined it on an O gauge layout where the crank was soldered to a spigot on a substantial turned brass rod (a one piece turning in brass comprising the spigot and had a shoulder on it to prevent it falling down through the t...

Hi,
There is something called 'wire glue', that works but not much good as a glue. Having said that I've only ever used it occasionally with smd leds, where the current is miniscule compared with a loco. It does sound very similar to the Farnell offering.

Hi,
John looks to have gone down the same path as myself, only he's finished it. Well done. NLS maps is very useful, will be even better once they've finished the 25 inch map scans.

Hi, It's a fairly simple layout comprising if my calculations are correct 9 turnouts. The National Library of Scotland come to the rescue once again with their scanning initiative here is the link for the map, http://maps.nls.uk/geo/explore/#zoom=18&lat=51.1815&lon=-2.8730&layers=176&...

I've just received some pretty impressive samples of the Signal Lamps he has recently scanned.(they are hollow too) My only comment about what might be improved was to do them in black rather than red if possible as otherwise the inside of the lamp needs to be painted with a reflective paint (silver...

Yes inkjet printing onto normal decal sheet won't work, it has to be a Laser.

Hi, Yes I know that, I was just doubting such cutters to have sufficient resolution to cut out very small transfers such as the hand-written insignia so often seen on wagons. Maybe OK for larger lettering but they have never really been much of a problem anyway. The only semi-successful method I hav...

Hi,

Pretty certain that the docks were part of the Wrexham Mold and Connahs Quay Railway absorbed by the GCR, so no GWR influence!

Hi,

Just a thought - what if....

Take a sheet of waterside transfer sheet, paint it white or whatever, cut out the letters on one of these cameo cutter type thingies - would it work?

probably not for very small print but has anybody tried it?

Hi,

Nothing to do signal arms or etchings but not sure if everybody knew that Alan Buttler of Modelu is now doing 3d printed Finials - the GWR ones even have the open slits and hollow ball!

Hi, I have now had chance to try the rail and flux for myself. Firstly the Flux - certainly different to anything else I have ever used - they say it's alcohol based and judging from the smell, it is (reminds me of the stuff they use as a dis-infectant when giving injections). Personally I found tha...

Hi, No-clean is only No-clean in so far as it is not necessary to clean it off for electrical joints. For cosmetic reasons and to paint, it needs to be cleaned.

Hi, In the photo the chairs labelled as C&L are of course originally the Exactoscale ones. The original pattern K&L now C&L are still available. From photos, the GWR appear to have used both patterns, so it's up to you which you use. The Exactoscale version has the better bolt detail, as...

Hi,
Not had any problem with Chinchilla sand, however there are several varieties, I think not all are created equal. Thorough pre-wetting before applying the diluted PVA is of course a must. Perhaps it depends on the wetting agent employed?

Hi,
What really looks impressive to me is are the GWR finials - hollow ball and all! I'll be using them in future.

Hi,
No experience of using Timbertracks bases, though I've built plenty of slips of various types over the years in 7mm and 4mm scales.

I usually start with the two common crossings, then the inner rails with the outer rails last.

Hi, Yes the original fret is not so good, the ex D&S one is better (except for perhaps the back blinders) but the best MSE one is the fret for an individual signal, as it includes all the bits that the others don't. Scalelink do a fret of GWR arms, lacks the bits you need to complete and you get...

Hi, Yes I meant Douglas Smith, that's a shame. What I meant by being asymetrical is that the bracing in the MSE ones is out of phase. It's been known for some time though the bracket base post is correct. It is still a mystery as to why it hasn't been corrected. I think you will find some more info ...

Hi, Only just found this thread, very impressive. 1) I like the subterfuge regarding the linkage from the balance weight arm, never thought of that although I have made the pulleys 'work' in the past by adding a crank to them . 2) I found Douglas Adams design to be very useful - I don't get asked fo...

Hi, Yes the Megapoints board can be a little tricky to understand at first but is quite straightforward once you get the hang of it. I was fortunate in living not to far away from Dave and had a personal demonstration. It is more picky about it's power supply than others though. GF Controls is easy ...

For various reasons, I am thinking of giving up on whitemetal castings for working signal lamps and have made a start with GWR ones. They feature fitted warm white smd leds. If anybody is interested, a photo etc are on my website. They are cast from polyurethane resin. Not being able to get any MSE ...