Scalefour Forum

Thanks Tim May not have been clear enough. On a double slip you have to ensure the correct route is set at both ends. On a single slip you don’t. For example if the straight road is set one end. The other, where the point blades are not on the route that’s set can be left at whatever they happen to ...

Hi all A thought has crossed my mind on single slips. On a double slip both ends need to be thrown to set the route but on a single slip, you can throw one end and not necessarily the other. From a model point of view with traditional wiring you do need to throw both ends but I wonder, on the protot...

The London road models one might be better than these 2

Cheers

Jim

With my ongoing Duchess build my thoughts turned to a little quick win project (also with Scalefour North coming up at the end of March). I said relatively speaking in the title because a few years ago I would have likely considered this quick win as a bit of an undertaking but there you go. When we...

My only real question is how strong would it be if a loco slips while trying to pull away. Would you get grooves like the real thing can in extreme circumstances?

PeteScR wrote:
New for this year, we will also be having a DEFine members “Pre-Loved Items” table with some stock and books etc for sale on the day.

We hope you can join us.

Can visitors sell stuff Pete?

Hi nick

I needed to open them up. The axle boxes and springs are separate but a couple of seconds with a round burr in a minidrill is all that was needed.

Cheers

Jim

The tender chassis is now effectively done - Not a lot else to say really so here's some pictures. http://www.p4newstreet.com/wp-content/uploads/tender-chassis-RH-side.jpg Right hand side http://www.p4newstreet.com/wp-content/uploads/tender-chassis-rear-end.jpg Rear end http://www.p4newstreet.com/wp...

I've moved away from the loco for a while as the next stage of the build is the cylinders and I don't have the castings i will need for them just yet. So attention has shifted to the tender. http://www.p4newstreet.com/wp-content/uploads/tender-outside-basic-frame.jpg The first stage is the outside s...

I agree with Mark. If you want to go sprung you need to decide at the start, converting later is going to be a bit of a faff.

The newest releases (97201) have better windows and new grilles. The windows are to be made available to owners of older models for upgrading if they wish iirc. So basically the bits some people were insistent I was wrong for saying could be better, have been made better then? :twisted: :twisted:

I am also wanting to build a Class 03 shunter [D2133 in Green Livery]. High Level chassis is a must. But what of the body? Three choices exist. 1, Airfix/Rosebud kit, however this has the wrong style of chimney. Also I doubt my skills of painting the black & yellow chevrons. 2, Mainline what is...

There’s more pictures of progress so far now on the Brassmasters site

http://www.brassmasters.co.uk/Coronation_pre-production_build.htm

I use a hand held mini drill if that helps?

Remember I'm a kitchen table man so, if this is going to be a hand drilling job, drilling through the wheel hub first and into the axle is something which is unlikely to go well. It’s what I normally do. Had a few broken bits (which I just use as the pin anyway) but other than that not had a proble...

Hardwicke wrote:Slow progress, but progress nonetheless.

Oh I dunno, it’s only 6 and a half years since you first posted!

Jim

I’ve got a GW models wheel press but to be honest haven’t really got on with it so I do the quartering by eye (looking through the spokes)

Seems ok so far.

Bear in mind I’ve only actually built 2 complete etched loco kits, one mashed up white metal one and a handful of chassis before. This will be my second attempt at outside valve gear so I guess ‘if’ I manage to do it It can’t be that hard.

Jim

Possibly because retooling is expensive and the thing hasn't started turning a decent profit yet? Wouldn’t need a retool it a new photo tool which costs next to nothing, in the grand scheme of things. ISTR Phil had a new etch ages ago and it appears the most recent release might have better grills,...

So progress continues on my Coronation build. http://www.p4newstreet.com/wp-content/uploads/front-frames-.jpg The front frame is as far as I can go for the moment. (I don't have the cast bits for the loco yet. If you are wondering about the cylinders they are a separate sub assembly. http://www.p4ne...

Apart from the central window (which I always felt was a tad small and too high) the Hornby body is very good. I carefully enlarged the window downwards and made both a 24 and 25. I added new doors too. It is too small so enlarging it downwards is the way to go. It’s not too high, the problem is th...

A very good question and logical responses which have already split between numbers of derailments and smoothness of ride - might there be a link between the two? What type of suspension do you fail most often, Jim? DaveB There’s no real pattern. Other than to say anything that’s not set up right, ...

I think the easiest way is to just run stuff. A weekend exhibition* will show up problems. Of course it’s less controlled and there’s a lot of variables so you could argue it’s less scientific but it’s also more ‘real world’ Of course if something falls off and you just plonk it back on and carry on...

This is quite funky

This is a delicious prospect Jim! It will be great if you keep on showing us the build.The forum can show so much more than magazine articles. Did you test build their Princess kit too I wonder. Nope, not me. I’ve built a couple of Brassmasters kits now but this is my first test build I will post h...