Scalefour Forum

Anyway my plan is to glue the Templot sheet directly onto a separate piece of cork Hi Mike, I think that will work fine, but I would strongly suggest printing the template on something thicker than ordinary 80gsm office paper. I suggest using 160gsm paper when printing templates which will remain a...

Apologies for raising an old topic but I thought I would post my ideas for what I am about to try (and maybe stop me if someone knows it will fail) Anyway my plan is to glue the templot sheet directly onto a separate piece of cork, Once dry I will cut around the template leaving the correct width fo...

I was also not contacted but I am also perfectly happy to send the balance to charity

Another great part of the tutorial. I have already learned quite alot from this, It doesn't seem too complicated just fiddly I guess but I see how it's all coming together

Thanks John,

That first part of the tutorial looks great and a great idea with the block of wood. I think I need to go off and purchase a few extra bits now but nothing as yet looks daunting at all. Can I ask, what glue did you use?

Cheers

Very Impressive Knuckles! Although I still have no idea where to start even with one of those I can see you really have put alot of time into developing a number of very interesting products and I hope it goes well for you

Well I have just ordered a D5000 variant. Got through first time no issues

17th Is my Birthday, might have to have a day out up "north" maybe

In reply to Jol ....tyre thicknesses obviously reduced with wear Jol. Personally, I'm much more convinced by the SLW version. Looking at a variety of images of 24s on the Derby Sulzers site I can't see any thick enough to match the Ultrascale tyre rim thickness. In answer to Mike....the £203 price ...

Tor Giffard wrote:....£203 for a DC version with P4 wheelsets inc. postage Mike....you won't be disappointed.

Dave

Cheers Dave, Do they do a DCC version? I best get cracking with my inglenook layout I guess!

John, I got an Iwata HP-C Plus direct from Japan from a seller on Amazon. It was £73 but I doubt the guarantee is valid. I've just googled and it's currently twice that price in the UK. My thoughts were that if they are guaranteed for 10 years, then they are unlikely to break. All the excise duties...

Very nice model, As I havn't bought anything from the rail exclusives site so I have to wait for general sale, Hopefully it won't break the bank account

What rtr P4 loco is this and where? lol. I myself am in the same boat as John Fitton above, I can quite comfortably make track but my first attempt to convert a small loco to P4 didn't go so well (probably a bad choice of one) so I would quite happily purchase rtr P4 loco's and as John says, It can ...

Thanks all, going to order tonight. I think I have some solder lying about, no idea what sort it is though so I might buy myself some of that too. At least with these thing's its a buy once and forget about it situation which seems require a few expensive ish things for getting back into model railw...

I did notice that the new antex soldering stations only go down to a minimum of 200c so hopefully it won't be too bad for whitemetal

Thanks everyone for all your comments. I have decided to go for a temperature controlled unit for sure and probably just an analogue one, For digital you seem to pay alot more just for a digital display which looks like it would take far longer to set to your required temperature than with a simple ...

I just found that digital one on c&l for alot cheaper than £200, http://www.finescale.org.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=446_448_451&product_id=11431 or I noticed these cheap ones with temperature control all built into the unit, but makes me wonder if it will work as good as th...

Hi all, At the moment I am using a really old soldering iron that has a huge bit on the end which isn't so suitable for the little bit of fine works that needs doing (almost messed up my tiebar with it) So I am looking for your opinions on what would be a good soldering iron to get, From the looks o...

The Inglenook is a good project Mike especially if you can use automatic coupling/uncoupling and the card system for shunting. I did one in four feet using the prescribed 5-2-1 wagon format (thread here http://www.scalefour.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=101&t=3745) and it works a treat! :thumb Stev...

Moving on from my first eventual success at making a P4 point this was originally intended as a SGW project but to me having a little extra space and not having to squeeze things in I decided to make it a full fledged first project in P4 (and in any scale since I was a teenager) So using some old bi...

Well I picked up some c&l gauges which are perfect for doing that little section of the point and now I have adjusted things slightly I can run my test wagon through at speed with no derailment. So hopefully this weekend I will build my sgw track with 2 more points (as this one is starting to lo...

Thanks Keith, You are right, it seems to have got a little tight where the blades are. I will make some alterations and all should be good.

Cheers

Yup, Been using the 3 point track gauges. It works fine if I hold the wagon to the curved stockrail but if I loosley push it through then it's a no go. There is a set in the curved rail but there is a chance that the rail might not be 100% straight over those first 4 slide chairs. I will go back and...

Hi Martin, Yeah I've just checked the back to back and they are spot on (wheels from s4 shop) I also just checked the gap between the switch and blade and its set at 1mm all the way along. If I hold the wagon to the curved side it stays on the rail in both sides but if I don't then it trys to wander...

Hi all, Well after a few little mistakes I got my first turnout complete with tiebar, however I have discovered a problem! As you can see from the pictures when I try to run my test wagon on the curved section the flange of the wagon decides to force it's way between the straight rail and the blade ...