Scalefour Forum

Tender body assembled, minor problem as it appears the castings may be slightly over-width, but a bit of squeezing and fiddling looks like it might be on track. Motor tried in position, next is to make the running gear.

Too late - already made them!

As said, I'm building this without recourse to any outside trade help. So although the BGS may have the correct wheels (for example), as I'm not a member I can't use their excellent trade counter!

Decided instead to build the tender first. Axles being made, wheels sourced.

It wasn't me M'lud.

Well that just slipped out! It was supposed to say round pin 15A!
I don't believe it - a website dedicated to old plugs - and the plug I was referring to!
https://www.plugsocketmuseum.nl/Fitall1.html

Ah shows in the 70s. You never knew what socket you would get at the venue, round pin 5A, round pin 13A, 2/3 pins, used to have to take a supply of extra plugs. Then I found a converter plug - it had all options (I wonder what happened to it?). You just popped out the appropriate pins, screwed them ...

It was a very complicated box with spring strips - I used to have the instruction booklet, but looks like that's gone. The castings weren't bad, but the valve gear was very good.

Starting work on the BG goods engine, first job is make the split axles. Very few useful dimensions on the BG website, but I've calculated that a 45mm axle will cover the outside framed engine. So I've started making them.

Right, in my kit mountain I've found a Sharman kit for a Hercules class 0-6-0 broad gauge engine. I've found some used 5' diameter wheels. I've found some hornblocks. There could be a good motor (untested as yet). Some gears. The plan is to do it without recourse to ordering things in. Basic spec sa...

Bembridge!

steve howe wrote:247 Developments list the 'Romford P4 axle' I wonder if RP25 profile tyres would work in P4......

Or is that total heresy?

Steve

You asked the question, I expect a full report back (and an article for the snooze).

Concerning springing to improve electrical contact, it's worth noting that this is now common practice in 2FS, where spring for track holding don't work much and aren't considered necessary. The 'springs' are actually bearing on top of the axles (split frames), there is usually minimal slop in the ...

Actually, there is quite a lot of slop in RTR mechanisms. And that slop isn't just for road-holding, but for pickup. I can't recommend building rigid chassis with 'slop'. If you are going to that extent, putting in a simple beam system (remember that?) isn't much more work and will result in a far b...

Oh well, as for diesels, I had a Bachman warship that ran beautifully with new wheels, a Helkan Hymek that, after a change of motor runs superbly.

Several engines on Clutton had converted Bachman type chassis, ran without problems. I wouldn't have said the trackwork on that was 'high quality'. Plus those same engines were expected to run round 3' radius curves at line speed. So go for it - there are other heretics in the society who haven't be...

I built a class 3 tank from the Kemilway kit long before the Bachman one came out.

The Kemilway sprung system was basically unusable, so I took the frames and made cut-outs and put standard guides and blocks in. New spacers. The Comet trucks can be used.

Just returned from the day, despite our fears, it was a good turnout.

Careful Gareth I did that once - ended up as co-ordinator of an area group

Welcome back.

A professional engineer wouldn't start with what we have got.

I'm talking about the professional approach to model making.

I have used the JB method of setting the rod length on the chassis with great success. Plus, I've taken poor runners and brought them up to scratch. The minor inconvenience of the wheels moving (and actually, they don't) can be countered by holding them. The professional approach - do it once, do it...

You're over-thinking this.

Have a read of the John Brighton method of setting the rods (S4 News 142), so much simpler.

If it's good enough for the professional, it's good enough for us.

This is a couple of weeks away, and I will be there on the loco clinic.

OK, I'm going to say it, the best wire for collectors is no wire. Use split frames/axles - all the problems with collectors go away. However, this may not help in your quest to find a reliable wiper system.

That would be the general idea, I'm merely giving this diagram as an example.