Scalefour Forum

Philip Hall wrote:Tim, essentially it involves using a lathe to (where necessary) skim the wheel centres and gluing the tyre back on with epoxy.

Philip

If you are skimming the centres, how do to ensure the rims are going on concentrically?

Was it the artwork? Even if the original drawn artwork (or CAD files) goes missing, the etch tooling probably still exists at the etchers so the kit could be produced. I doubt that David Geen needed direct access to both, juts the authorisation to order the etches, unless that was done by Pete Wate...

I keep getting told that some stock will run 'better' than others, and I have to admit that I have been sceptical. Then I found this: image.png Which begs the question; 'Just what can I measure to prove that the way the stock runs has been improved?' Let's keep it simple and say that I am working on...

From memory the obvious difference is actually on the solebar. 1907 had a semi circular plate. 1923 had 3 bolts. These differences were in the nature of the solebars. Wagons with the semi-circular crown plate had plain wooden solebars, while those with just bolts had a steel flitch(strengthening) p...

They could be, if I could work out what the geometry should be.

I will be taking a few sets of SECR H class wheels to Scaleforum this year. There will also be some for the Beattie well tank.




Note that these have 2mm axles on the drivers. If anyone needs wheels with 1/8" axle please let me know so I can add them to the print.

How about making the centre a sliding fit into the tyre and locking them together with Loctite 603 or similar retainer? If the tyre is turned with a groove on its inside and the centre is printed with a matching groove in its outside, then the retainer should set as an annulus that both retains the...

Have you thought of bonding the wheels into the tyres using additional printer resin and solidifying it with a UV lamp? In doing so you can use the machining marks on the inside of the tyre to lock the printed insert in place. That doesn't work. The cured resin is opaque to UV, meaning the joint wi...

When you start on the concrete sleepered turnouts, remember the joiners and boltheads.....

I'm designing this chassis (and subsequently all my others) to incorporate working 4 point equalization and rapid and problem free assembly. To me this is especially important in the case of wanting multiple copies of the same prototype. ( I have 5 N7's to build so I can model a small part of the &...

I often wonder about the economics of getting better components. Bearings for coupled axles are a good example: the cuboid kind that slide in hornguides. If the bearing blocks were accurately machined, then they could just slide in slots etched in the frames, without the hornguides, and it would be...

I often wonder about the economics of getting better components. Bearings for coupled axles are a good example: the cuboid kind that slide in hornguides. If the bearing blocks were accurately machined, then they could just slide in slots etched in the frames, without the hornguides, and it would be...

[quote="Jol Wilkinson"Many RTR locos have, as far as I know, some sort of removeable wheel set system with a keeper plate. However, the design concept is driven by production requirements and is part of a design unique to that particular model. If you can control every aspect of the design...

That kind of comment is a bit self defeating - it is merely a different way, not necessarily better . And for a beginner, the complications of a CSB chassis is certainly a step to far. That does depend on whether the building is expected to bodge their CSBs onto an antiquated chassis design, or the...

On the iPad or any other IO S device just hold down a key and a list of available accented versions of that letter will come up. It even has ^w and ^y for our Welsh friends.

zebedeesknees wrote:Full springing of all stock really helps; battery powered traction solves the problem.

As does steel rail.

Cassart?

How about these?

I think TIG type spot welders would be better for what we do, even if the joint has to be flooded with solder afterwards. The laser welders would be useful where a small joint needs to be made with only local heating.

Having seen this video

,

I'm not sure that laser welding is something that has any relevance to our model making.

I’ve just seen on BBC’s “Repair Shop” a laser welder being used by a jeweller - looks just the job for fine “soldering” work. Only problem could be the cost... but laser cutters have reduced in price a great deal so there may be hope. Has any one had experience with this technique? See this from ab...

Triode wrote:Is it necessary to do this while the W-iron etch is still flat (i.e. before the ends are folded up)?

Yes, you need the axlebox in its ultimate position, so that you can use the oval cutout in the w-iron as a 'pattern' for the hole in the axlebox.

My position is that Nadel's formula is proven and the consequences are that models should be heavy (or at least heavier) compared with the worst expected impulses from bumpy track, and evenly and equally loaded per wheel. Looks like confirmation bias -- We like heavy stock, therefore heavy stock wo...

2. Find a way of making a slot in the cosmetic axlebox such that it can be fixed to the axleguard (W iron) but still leave freedom for the bearing to move within. I can see that forming a 2mm wide slot for this purpose can be difficult, and that using a drill bit larger than 2mm to create the neces...

Thanks for the replies. I’ve attached an image which hopefully illustrates the problem. Too little of the 2mm side portion of the bearing protrudes through the slot (due to the use of spacing washers on the inside). As a result, the axle end can move from side to side in the slot instead of just up...