Scalefour Forum

Hi Peter, Not a Perseverance chassis but an SEF one for the Hattons SECR P class but I suspect the experience would be similar. I reduced the depth of the sides first by tack soldering them together and then rubbing down on a 2nd cut file while frequently offering up the side to the footplate to see...

That's interesting. But doing that on a 0.5mm drill? Not so sure. Worth a go though, thanks for posting that David, I had no idea there was a cure for the grabbing effect. Mike Prompted by your comments I had a quick search and it is possible to get drills for brass that are designed for the purpos...

Paul, Brass can be a pain as drill bits tend to grab. The problems you are encountering along with similar problems encountered by others on the forum caused a memory (or something) in my mind to click that there was a better way of drilling brass and there is; https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forum...

Now that I've seen what a difference a representation of inside valve gear makes, I'll be looking to see what information I can find for a suitable representation. I have some detailed photos sent to me from the locomotive at Bressingham, but annoyingly not one that gives the overall view, to show ...

There is another way to shift wheels without resorting to brute force. I posted an article to Scalefour News 145 (December 2005) P9 describing how to make a wheel puller from a cheap G cramp (clamp). It works in the same fashion as the as the GW one but instead of pulling at the rim it applies the f...

... your work ethic is inspirational :thumb :thumb Shouldn't that be 'play' ethic :D for myself the moment it becomes work is the moment the hours appear to stall :thumb ... never really had much work ethic but miraculously still manage to churn out what is often called work :shock: Interesting. I’...

About the lost wax castings and drilling, has anyone tried annealing them first or is the alloy of brass used for casting just going to be hard no matter what?

Cheers,

David

PS, Brilliant stuff Lindsay, your work ethic is inspirational

Another way forward for return cranks can be found here: https://www.scalefour.org/members/newsarchive/dl.php?f=S4-149.pdf. Dave Booth converted a Bachmann WD and outlined the procedure in S4 news issue 149 (2006) on page 11. The only catch is that it requires a lathe or access to one along with som...

A Canadian invention as it happens, https://www.robertsonscrew.com/. Far superior to Phillips heads IMHO as they don't strip as quickly and the screw can easily be carried to the job on the screwdriver tip.

Cheers,

David

Neil, I think as a rule of thumb the number of brake bits increases with the date so the early version would have minimal braking and later, say about 1937, would have levers both sides at the very least if not brakes and levers. Your model has bottom doors IIRC so brakes and levers both sides would...

There are tube cutting jigs/vices such as the one below from the Tools 'n' Tools site . They are not cheap (this one is £25) but if one is likely to be cutting tube (or rod) of a certain length, repeatedly, then it could be a useful investment. David, have you found a minimum length you can cut? Pr...

Hi Neil, Mr Hornby was not thinking about P4 modellers when he designed this van. I took one look and decided a Parkside kit was a better idea. The closest I've come to it was doing the Hornby LMS Horse Box which was a bit of a faff and I'm not happy with the results either. It's in my sin bin waiti...

Fair point Tim. The idea is based on the theory put forward by many who argue that in some engines there is little to no room for the motor to rotate so they don't even bother with a link. Being a belt, braces and a bit of string type I thought this idea a bit tidier plus it let me run the engine wi...

Since the conversation is about torque reaction links, I have one that seems to work but I would appreciate constructive criticism of it. It is mounted on a modified SEF chassis for an SECR "P" class 0-6-0T and consists of a simple horseshoe shaped length of N/S wire that hooks on a frame ...

I agree that there is a resemblance to the Fairlie but there is also a strong resemblance to the work of one Mathias Forney as can be seen in the picture at the head of this Wikipedia article https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Forney_locomotive

Cheers,

David

Unless my eyes deceive me it looks like you are going to make those catch points functional rather than cosmetic. I am impressed.

Cheers,

David

An interesting looking clamp David. I could have used something like it recently as I’ve been making bearings from brass tube for pulley wheels on a Langley model of a Ruston face shovel. The white metal castings are a bit soft and the holes not always true due to registration problems so bearings a...

Looking good Neil , only 4,358 chairs to go

Be safe, stay healthy.

Cheers,

David

You can do it Chris!

Cheers,

David

Looking very good Neil. Are you taking any precautions with the fumes from the Butanone?

Cheers,

David

Phosphor bronze works fine with steel wheels and has the advantage of being springy so you can regulate the pressure on whichever part of the wheel the wire bears on. PB is softer than steel so wear first but for steel to be springy it has to be hard and would tend to wear the tyre. Pickups are easi...

Serious question, could you fit R/C and battery in here? http://www.clag.org.uk/coronation0-4-0.html

Cheers,

David

Hi Neil,

Looking very good . What gauge wire are you using for your droppers?

Cheers,

David

“ I’ve also tried the Masokits version, but my origami skill are lacking. (Plagiarizing Dave Knight’s expression about fiddly bits.)” Not to worry Neil, I’m sure I stole it from someone else. I see you are having a heat wave in Winterpeg. On the plus side, at least the mosquitos are not out. Cheers,...

Thank you Bernie, very useful. It would appear that the pickups are a bit more amenable to bending than the Hornby ones.

Cheers,

David