Scalefour Forum

I used half of an old point motor to work my Dinghams. The only catch was that I had to make up a new core section as the existing one was too loose and would fly out when the coil was activated :oops: . That said, a single coil has enough oomph to work the coupling. I use about 6 VDC from an old po...

Great progress Neil . The goods shed looks particularly interesting, will you be cladding the outside with the same material you used on the turntable wall?

Kato puts me in mind of our late Maggie who used to supervise my efforts for many years

Cheers,

David

Mucho encouragement, thanks guys, That track looks great David, how did you attach the rails to the sleepers? (assuming they're not copperclad!) Steve Thanks Steve. Hot glue is the binding agent, an idea I picked up, IIRC, on E4um many years back. It involves running a bead of hot glue from a glue ...

Pics as threatened ;) The model photos are from my light railway currently in rebuild mode, the extra check rail is apparently prototypical. The prototype shots are from an ex-Canadian Pacific line still in use by the Guelph Junction Railway. The rail is rather heavier than code 55 would depict but ...

I’ve done some work with code 55 FB for a light railway I built a few years back and it was great fun. The best advice for the point rails is to study prototype photos if you can get them. Mostly it comes down to file and fit, the first one is tricky, the next one less so. The main thing is to resis...

I've been using the same roadbed as Neil and it is very much like gasket material. As a plus, if you have any gaps to fill, the strips can be filed with a rasp and the dust left behind mixed with PVA blends in very nicely. I used water based contact cement from the local hardware to fix my strips do...

Thanks to all. I now have a sense of direction as to what I’m going to do.

Cheers,

David

In theory the track would be in southwest Scotland so G&SW, Caley territory originally then LMS but modelled in early BR days.

Cheers,

David

A small question. I am about to do track on a viaduct for the first time and am unsure as to the positioning of checkrails. It will be bullhead rail so I assume the checkrails will be the same. How far ahead of the bridge do the checkrails need to start and do they go the full length? Apologies if m...

Works just fine, very smooth with no distracting lumps in the motion. . That’s the engine and the video both BTW

Cheers,

David

Was this what you had in mind? https://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics ... tem/TT4581
I’ve used them but they’re better with FB rail than BH.

Cheers,

David

mikemeg wrote:I now have the parts and kit to build a second B16/1 so I might 'chronicle' that build in a little more detail, on here, if anyone is interested?

Cheers

Mike

Yes please.

Cheers,

David

Minwax Jacobean Oak stain works for me with the society’s ply sleepers. The only catch being I don’t know if you can get Minwax in the UK, that said Mr Rice does mention a “Colron Dark Jacobean Oak”. Incidentally, the new format for the sleepers in laser cut strips makes the job much easier from the...

Hi Neil,

What are you planning to use for sculpting the foam? Knives and saws tend to be a bit messy but hot wire gives off some nasty gasses IIRC.

Cheers,

David

Excellent! Better yet our postal strike is ending too. Any thought as to price, Gordon?

Cheers,

David

Andy,

Is it possible to connect code 55 FB to your girder rail? I’m thinking of a dockyard/pier with mixed track, inset and open.

Cheers,

David

I have a Bachrus 50B that I’ve used for everything from HO to O for at least ten years or more. Never any problems as the construction is sturdy but as David says they seem to have stopped manufacturing. Possibly a second hand version might be available?

Cheers,

David

Looking good Neil! :thumb :thumb . Now comes the track and scenery - Enjoy! I'm in transition mode after a house move. I now have a dedicated layout room that will blend the old home layout with half of my portable. The other half to become a new, smaller portable. Pics eventually ;) Cheers, David

To answer my own question and that of at least one other member, there does not seem to be a problem with rail from S4stores. I got a shipment in just yesterday (thanks Jeremy) which I fettled the end of then slide onto a sample or three of C&L chairs purchased for me at Scaleforum (thanks Mark)...

Not to be ignored is the matter of price. Gavin has opined that £30 a pop might be his top end price, well at that price for even a basic BLT is going to run £120 + for which you could buy a loco. I have time and adequate skill to build my own so will stay with that option. Of course this is all spe...

The announcement has stirred up interest on RMweb, 55 replies at last count and growing. The key thing here is the creation of rtr points, EM flex track or at least track bases have been available for at least 30 years. I know because I was tempted by them but the lack of point work, out to be more ...

As a matter of curiosity, how does the NS rail from S4 stores stack up by comparison? (I have a batch on the way)

Cheers,

David

Gareth, A small watchmaker’s hammer is a good start. Are the rivets solid or hollow ended? A hollow end makes life a little easier as you can use a centre punch to start the flare. Solid ends require a bit more patience. A thin piece of paper between the two pieces will help keep them from seizing u...

As I recall S&W couplings are pulled down by their magnets. Kadees are pulled to the side so your average button magnet will have no effect on them.

Cheers,

David

“Did you Granfather leave you any photos? The engines at the Coat's mills were very impressive!” Sadly no. I only ever saw one picture of him inside the mill and that was unrelated to the actual engines. My memories of it were from the outside and walking over with my mother to meet grampa when he w...