Scalefour Forum

Thank you Bernie, very useful. It would appear that the pickups are a bit more amenable to bending than the Hornby ones.

Cheers,

David

Mark, Philip, thanks for the advice on the tyres. Bernie, can you give a bit more detail on the Hatton’s Barclay conversion, please? Are the wheels mounted on splined axles like the Hornby ones, can they be removed with a fine drift punch or are other methods needed and did you use the same techniqu...

Thanks Bernie and Philip for the added insight. A question, now that the quality of Gibson wheels has gone up the tyres are more reluctant to let go of their centres. Any suggestion for how to pop them off with minimal risk of damage?

Cheers,

David

Hi Bernie, No apology needed, the Peckett is just one of a long queue of projects on my “To Do Eventually” list so there was no rush for an answer. I do have a few questions though. First off, did you recess the Hornby wheel to accept the rim of the Gibson tyre as they do have the extra bit on the o...

FWIW another variation on the same theme can be found here; viewtopic.php?f=20&t=2019&start=50#p18358

Cheers,

David

About MDF: https://www.hse.gov.uk/woodworking/faq-mdf.htm

Cheers,

David

Hi Neil,

The visual effect is good, have you had a chance to test the sonic effect, ie the “clickety clack”? Getting the joints lined up could be fun...

Cheers,

David

This is good news, I can print the inserts if people want the wheels although, new wheel production from another angle is being worked on! Given the need for wheels for the conversion of two models of Pecketts, the B2 and W4 plus the 14” & 16” Barclays Thai sounds very promising. I shall be wat...

Any of the existing etched couplings will answer well if the end loop is made out of soft iron. Exactoscale did a suitable screw link that had an iron/steel end loop, the screw even worked if you were so inclined :geek: I’m not sure of a source for iron wire on our side of the pond Andy but the fine...

On the subject of rivets - a brief side bar: In securing the rivets, does one give the back a sturdy thwack with a hammer (ala Iain Rice), or is the preference a rivet punch? I see a variety of jewellery punches available, but they all seem to be a significant investment..... largely in shipping co...

The new Peckett B2 s coming out have 3’7” wheels, can the print be expanded to suit?

Cheers,

David

Any progress on the chassis for the 14” Barclay that you had mentioned a while back? No pressure, just curious.

Cheers,

David

It may be too fine, but the dust from clay might work. It is certainly fine enough and comes in a few different colours. Failing that, very fine soil might also work, I use it for ballast on neglected lines.

HTH

David

For those of us over the seas and far away this might (hopefully) have an upside. If Andrew upgrades his website by adding more images and expanding the range of products available it could mean the return of the “one stop online shop” that we have not seen since the demise of Dave Cleal’s Mainly Tr...

Very impressive Petri, you seem to have combined the virtues of a number of ideas and put them in one chassis. You have also eliminated the problem of getting the spacing of the bearings spot on by having everything jigged together. I can see CSBs working well with this type of frame.

Cheers,

David

Paul Townsend wrote:Bu#@&* the accent. What I need to hear is whether a Louis Jadot cork makes the track cleaner than a cork from Lidl’s plonk! I

I can assure you that as long as the cork is cork it works just fine, domestic or imported makes no difference

Cheers,

David

I’ve been using a wine cork sliced in half the long way. It cleans the muck off but does not abrade the rail head. The good part is that when the old one wears out all you need is a fresh bottle of wine (screw tops don’t work).

Cheers,

David

As to gauges, if you know someone with a lathe you could ask them to turn you up a set of roller gauges that would suit most needs. Track would probably be easiest done with code 55 FB which is relatively easy to find. PCB sleepers inserted every fifth sleeper would suffice or you could use hot glue...

Brilliant! Email to follow

Cheers,

David

Thanks for the link. I’ve taken the liberty of passing it on to members of my local club who are finding it very useful and informative.

Cheers,

David

You should submit a few of those to the “real atmosphere” file at MRJ especially the last one.

Cheers,

David

It depends on how fine a set of files you have but filing from the solid strikes me as being a possible way forward. I would proceed as follows: Mark out all holes on a suitable piece of brass stock and drill With magnification, fine files, possibly a fine bladed jeweler's saw and infinite patience ...

Excellent Gordon. Two for me please.

Cheers,

David

Very encouraging Gordon ! Any estimates as to price yet?

Cheers,

David

I’ve been messing about with an SEF “P” class chassis to convert the Hattons offering. To get the ride height correct I found it necessary to take about 1mm off the top of the SEF frame and lower the spacer slots and modify some spacers as well. It is a bit of a faff but seems to be working out but ...