Scalefour Forum

Paul Townsend wrote:Bu#@&* the accent. What I need to hear is whether a Louis Jadot cork makes the track cleaner than a cork from Lidl’s plonk! I

I can assure you that as long as the cork is cork it works just fine, domestic or imported makes no difference

Cheers,

David

I’ve been using a wine cork sliced in half the long way. It cleans the muck off but does not abrade the rail head. The good part is that when the old one wears out all you need is a fresh bottle of wine (screw tops don’t work).

Cheers,

David

As to gauges, if you know someone with a lathe you could ask them to turn you up a set of roller gauges that would suit most needs. Track would probably be easiest done with code 55 FB which is relatively easy to find. PCB sleepers inserted every fifth sleeper would suffice or you could use hot glue...

Brilliant! Email to follow

Cheers,

David

Thanks for the link. I’ve taken the liberty of passing it on to members of my local club who are finding it very useful and informative.

Cheers,

David

You should submit a few of those to the “real atmosphere” file at MRJ especially the last one.

Cheers,

David

It depends on how fine a set of files you have but filing from the solid strikes me as being a possible way forward. I would proceed as follows: Mark out all holes on a suitable piece of brass stock and drill With magnification, fine files, possibly a fine bladed jeweler's saw and infinite patience ...

Excellent Gordon. Two for me please.

Cheers,

David

Very encouraging Gordon ! Any estimates as to price yet?

Cheers,

David

I’ve been messing about with an SEF “P” class chassis to convert the Hattons offering. To get the ride height correct I found it necessary to take about 1mm off the top of the SEF frame and lower the spacer slots and modify some spacers as well. It is a bit of a faff but seems to be working out but ...

Matt,

You may find this useful when the time comes to build the Ruston https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index ... ent-673977

Cheers,

David

I used half of an old point motor to work my Dinghams. The only catch was that I had to make up a new core section as the existing one was too loose and would fly out when the coil was activated :oops: . That said, a single coil has enough oomph to work the coupling. I use about 6 VDC from an old po...

Great progress Neil . The goods shed looks particularly interesting, will you be cladding the outside with the same material you used on the turntable wall?

Kato puts me in mind of our late Maggie who used to supervise my efforts for many years

Cheers,

David

Mucho encouragement, thanks guys, That track looks great David, how did you attach the rails to the sleepers? (assuming they're not copperclad!) Steve Thanks Steve. Hot glue is the binding agent, an idea I picked up, IIRC, on E4um many years back. It involves running a bead of hot glue from a glue ...

Pics as threatened ;) The model photos are from my light railway currently in rebuild mode, the extra check rail is apparently prototypical. The prototype shots are from an ex-Canadian Pacific line still in use by the Guelph Junction Railway. The rail is rather heavier than code 55 would depict but ...

I’ve done some work with code 55 FB for a light railway I built a few years back and it was great fun. The best advice for the point rails is to study prototype photos if you can get them. Mostly it comes down to file and fit, the first one is tricky, the next one less so. The main thing is to resis...

I've been using the same roadbed as Neil and it is very much like gasket material. As a plus, if you have any gaps to fill, the strips can be filed with a rasp and the dust left behind mixed with PVA blends in very nicely. I used water based contact cement from the local hardware to fix my strips do...

Thanks to all. I now have a sense of direction as to what I’m going to do.

Cheers,

David

In theory the track would be in southwest Scotland so G&SW, Caley territory originally then LMS but modelled in early BR days.

Cheers,

David

A small question. I am about to do track on a viaduct for the first time and am unsure as to the positioning of checkrails. It will be bullhead rail so I assume the checkrails will be the same. How far ahead of the bridge do the checkrails need to start and do they go the full length? Apologies if m...

Works just fine, very smooth with no distracting lumps in the motion. . That’s the engine and the video both BTW

Cheers,

David

Was this what you had in mind? https://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics ... tem/TT4581
I’ve used them but they’re better with FB rail than BH.

Cheers,

David

mikemeg wrote:I now have the parts and kit to build a second B16/1 so I might 'chronicle' that build in a little more detail, on here, if anyone is interested?

Cheers

Mike

Yes please.

Cheers,

David

Minwax Jacobean Oak stain works for me with the society’s ply sleepers. The only catch being I don’t know if you can get Minwax in the UK, that said Mr Rice does mention a “Colron Dark Jacobean Oak”. Incidentally, the new format for the sleepers in laser cut strips makes the job much easier from the...

Hi Neil,

What are you planning to use for sculpting the foam? Knives and saws tend to be a bit messy but hot wire gives off some nasty gasses IIRC.

Cheers,

David