Scalefour Forum

O.k. thanks. Again, superb models Jim.
A

Lovely work as usual Jim. Interesting that you printed the logos on crafty transfer paper. Were these the white paper or transparent? Did you use an inkjet or laser printer? If the latter how did you fix them before using? Thanks, A.

Time consuming but rather wonderful.

"So I am confused but happy...." a perfectly normal state of mind for members of this forum.

"...I use heat shrink sleeve over the motor tags..." a great tip John.

Re soldering up what wasn’t meant to be soldered - you are far from alone. Agree oiling a piece under construction feels odd. Another way of creating a solder barrier is to use a felt tip pen. It doesn’t run and can be cleaned off easily when the soldering is done.

Thanks Julian, it's precision MR red on top of Halfords primer. Of course the next step is to weather it. Are we insane? We spend all this effort to get a good finish and then cover it in grime??????

Paul. Interesting to read about your approach to coupling rod thickness. I was checking the running of my shelf of shame chassis and only one didn’t run too well which had thinner (I.e. one layer) rods. Perhaps, even at our small scale, there are stresses involved?

Tremendous work Mike. When you replace your gearboxes do you anticipate having to change the wheels? Or do you use a wheel press?

Lindsay, a really interesting build of a wonderfully eccentric loco. For what it’s worth I’d try and keep the pipe work etc as separate units whenever possible. It’ll make painting easier. Just keep the parts safely!

Dave, I hope you resolve your chassis issues as the body deserves something good to run on.

Alan: I promise I’ll tweak the 3 links the next time it’s taken out of storage. Enigma: wheels are Gibson’s. “It would look great in my standard corporate steam engine green....“ No. Not allowed. :) P.S. there’s been discussion on young Flymo’s thread about using conductive paint for split axles. I’...

Distortion

I think I was attracted to the Brassmasters 0F because it reminded me of my school report grades. It's been sitting on my S of S for quite a while awaiting glazing; lining and a few other things. Like an idiot I decided to fully line like the few early types - but I love the black battered heavily r...

No. 16 has bundles of character. Your locos really do give the impression of weight. Marvellous.

Many of those small lads would have been caught up in the horrors of WW1.

That’s terrific Andy. One central entwined logo looks the way to go.

If it’s good enough for you Martin, it’s certainly good enough for me.

Thanks chaps. I probably will leave the inner line out - but the guilt is already with me......

A couple of long term residents of my Shelf of Shame are two GWR vehicles, a W1 parcels van kit bash and a Picnic saloon from Shirescenes. Being a Midland modeller this is unfamiliar territory for me. I've tried to research where and which crests would be correct. I've Photoshopped the following ont...

However your paint finish looks really good Julian.

Blue tack is very useful to mask small details and the inside of locomotive buffers. To keep coach buffers clean the sharp end of a toothpick does the job.

The definition of a fool is a man (because it’s usually a man!) who trips over the same stone twice. I know!

But tripping is the best way to learn.

I use an ultrasonic bath when I think there may be some fibres or flux lurking around, but I only add tepid water. The machine should heat up itself. Don’t get too scientific about this, take the simple route. Clean, protect from dust under a see through container then spray with a primer. Dust is t...

The brass doesn’t have to be shiny - just clean. The primer will show any problems which can be addressed before your top coat is applied.

If your top coat is going to be enamel and grey, green, blue or black then the Tamiya grey surface primer is excellent stuff. It gives a lovely surface - but not suitable for cellulose finishes. Also for red and yellow it might be better to use a red oxide - Halfords?