Scalefour Forum

Its been a while since I have done any work on the Railmotor with trying to get the underframe instructions done but I have just received the interior and roof test etch. Just need to find an evening to put it together. The roof is made from two baseplates with fold up ribs and two half etch top ove...

With the Underframe now made there are a few small things to do for fine detailing. The first one is a pipe .6mm rod which runs from the bottom of the Solebar at the centre of the motor bogie running to the centre of the Vacuum Vee and then running into the middle. Its only on the one side as shown ...

The quickest I have built a S4 Running Chassis including the Coupling Rods was a North Staffs 242t from the Eric Moleneux kit now London Rd. Models, is approximately 3 hours of working time. It was done over 2 days as the chassis was built and washed on the first day then painted in the morning of n...

The next parts to put on are the Motor Mounts from the Chassis Kit. First of all the edges on the front need rounding. The rear edges could also be done as they are round on the real thing but I have left the backs as I don't want to loose to much metal for strength. They also need the base drilled ...

Hi Roger I have put together and sold plenty of the Morgan Underframes and this problem has not been mentioned to me before. My first thought was that you have made them back to front. You have not put a picture up of the bearing in the carrier, but the bearing should not go through the carrier but ...

Moving on to the buffer beams. The Overlay is the next part to be added, this needs to have the bottom lip folded by 90 degree and the rivets popped out on the back first. IMG_4877.JPG When folded, it needs to be bent to match the underframe profile there are two slots in the folded over section to ...

With the steps now built they need the top filing flat and making fit the half etched space in the underframe. IMG_4858.JPG Note that the rod in the Centre step is still loose I have also added the truss rods which slot through the step frame between the two steps. Bent up to meet the Solebar behind...

Post by billbedford » Thu Apr 18, 2019 10:01 am Very clever, but using the ball mill will give the wrong shape to the flare. Thanks Bill for pointing that out . I only put the basic shape in the chimney in the big lathe all the detail is done in the Boley. You will notice in the picture that the fi...

Hi John It was getting a set of engraving balls with a Dremel drill kit that made me think of using them to producing the flair I just needed to hold the work steady and rotate it. The Vertical slide is one of the best tools I bought for the lathe. I had to make it fit the cross slide but that was o...

Hi Philip I used to have the Unimat SL with milling attachment. Excellent machine and have done chimneys and domes on it. It did have a self centring chuck but even with that it did spin about 2thou off centre as most self centring chucks do. Its always best to use Collets they are usually expensive...

Now moving it over to the Boley Watchmakers Lathe. I love this lathe as it has a foot peddle switch so it only runs when I am ready to cut, and I can use the big magnifier on it. IMG_4831.JPG Now drilling the top with a 4mm drill I have already put in 2mm pilot hole in and will go down about 5mm. IM...

Hi Will The Flair Jig is another home made tool. It is clamped to the back post on the cross slide where the parting tool is usually held. The chimney or dome of safety valve is fitted/Soldered to a 1/8th steel rod slotted into the jig and then the base runs against the runner which is in brass so i...

I picked up a small job of turning a CR Dunallastair 440 Chimney . 54473 Elgin29.5.58.jpg So Starting with the Flycutting I have set the Vertical slide in the lathe. IMG_4819.JPG Setting the height or the centre line IMG_4811.JPG Making sure its set to a right angle to the cutter the Flycutter is a ...

The next step is to add the Queen Posts for the truss rods to slot onto. They are made up of two parts each to get thickness and help strengthen them. IMG_4805.JPG The two parts should be soldered together and the half etched side is the front. Then attach to the solebar with so that it is behind th...

The next Job is to attach the Vacuum Vees, Driver End Ribs and the Motor Suspension Backing Plates. IMG_4791.JPG The front ribs should fit into the slots in the Underframe and the Bogie Mount and be just short of the Buffer beam so that they can be folded slightly to go 2mm past the fold in the buff...

This is a follow on from the Railmotor Chassis Instructions and the 9' Fishbelly bogie instructions, although I am supplying the 8' version in this kit the only variation is that we will be picking up off the bogie as well as the motor end. This is not a beginners kit so please read all instructions...

Just been making up the Underframe Kits which will be £45 aech Includes all parts except wheels to build the 59' Gloucester Built Diagram Q and Q1 Railmotors. Etched Floor, Etched Bogie , White metal castings for both and a lost wax Buffer heads and Screw Link Coupling Centre IMG_4776.JPG Shows all ...

Thanks Phil for the comment I have been trying to get it right as far as I can. Its not going to be a beginners kit and a plenty experience in soldering will be needed. Anyway I received today a large stack of production etches for the Diagram Q Footplate and the 8' fishbelly bogie so will spend the...

Post by Phil O » Tue Mar 19, 2019 7:47 pm Anyone got any idea as to what the oval hole in the roof is, just in front of chimney and is it also on the other side? I have not noticed it before in photos or drawings. Hi Phil Yes you are write they are not on the published drawings the small hole in th...

I have been having a few problems with the roof as not sure about all the roof detail that is where the pipes come from and go to so I went to Didcot Railway Centre on Monday morning this week to have a look at the rael one. Luckily for me it was in the works being overhauled with a ladder leaning a...

Post by garethashenden » Tue Mar 05, 2019 3:52 pm AJs and screwlinks? They don’t interfere with each other? Hi Gareth Yes they do. But not sure which way to go at the moment. All new wagons are fitted with AJs but my older stock has screw and 3 link so slowly fitting AJs to them. I like the ease of...

With the buffer shanks made I moved on to the heads. Using a 5mm Nickel Silver rod in the big lathe I firstly turned the head size to 4.7mm and then the shank to 1.5mm lastly putting a pop mark in the end .I did not drill it out at this point as this lathe will not take the .5mm drill. IMG_4682.JPG ...

It has been brought to my attention that there are some errors in the WN4590 Underframe kit for the GWR Bloater. This was one of the last Kits that Brian did and I suspect he never checked it. IMG_4674.JPG The etch is out and the first thing to notice is that the two Vees are different lengths and t...

Crepello Wrote
Is that a service they'll perform for anyone?

Yes they will but masters need to be made and soldered at high temperature to go through Vulcanisation mould process at 180 degrees. The costs are £20 for the mould and £2.80 per casting plus VAT.

Another step forward toward the kit has arrived from Slaters who have done some lost wax casting for me in nickel silver. Is the buffer heads they have a neat hole in the end to find the centre for drilling out to fit the tale rod. IMG_4656.JPG Also included on the casting is a centre piece for the ...