Scalefour Forum

Post by steve howe » Fri Oct 04, 2019 11:03 am They are nice little buildings. I did one in local stone for our Club layout a few years ago using the 'Pendon' method of card and watercolour using the drawings in Karau's book, but slightly adapted the floor plan to provide a forecourt entrance: Hi S...

Post by steve howe » Thu Oct 03, 2019 5:02 pm ralphrobertson wrote: Well done Jeremy. Like the station building! Ralph Indeed, the whole project looks fascinating, :thumb Is the station building a William Clarke design? they seemed to crop up all over the GWR area in a variety of disguises. Steve H...

Hi Philip Thank you. The photo has really brought out the colour well. I photographed it in my conservatory where the layout is and the light is not quite right at this time of year. Noel I hope you think the Lake livery is the right shade of red. The roof was originally white but the contrast was t...

Painted just in time for Scaleforum

The next job is to make the chimney I only need to do the top so forming the basic shape with a nose cutter and finishing with files then the hole is drilled in and top cut to the right height. IMG_5180.JPG IMG_5183.JPG IMG_5181.JPG IMG_5187.JPG Baffle added and slotted into the roof also the whistl...

Thanks Steve for the Shell Vents not bad Although I managed to find some quite nice ones in an old Nucast kit for an Auto Coach which was sitting in the bottom of the cupboard must have been there 25 years at least. As for lamp tops I decided to turn my own. First making a form tool for the big lath...

Noel Wrote I presume you are referring to the 1912-1922 livery? This was actually crimson lake, which is a very different colour to crimson, more or less maroon. In the case of the GWR this was a particularly dark version, apparently, referred to by Michael Harris as 'being best described as chocol...

The Summer has been long and busy in the garden and this O gauge loco a GWR Armstrong is finally finished which has been blocking the work bench. IMG_5152.JPG With that now built and out the way I have been having another go at the roof on the railmotor I redrew several versions of the roof top both...

I missed this picture on my last post of the other side of the boiler. IMG_5105.JPG Now to the Roof The roof is made of four main parts. First two are for the base and need to be fitted together with screws so that they can be soldered together neatly and in the right position IMG_5106.JPG I am keep...

Back to the Railmotor Just made up the interior section of the model starting with the floors and seats IMG_5095.JPG The seats are made up but the flipside chairs need the cushions making and shaping out of thick plasicard but the bench seats are Ok as they are. IMG_5094.JPG The floors and seats are...

Its been a while since I have done any work on the Railmotor with trying to get the underframe instructions done but I have just received the interior and roof test etch. Just need to find an evening to put it together. The roof is made from two baseplates with fold up ribs and two half etch top ove...

With the Underframe now made there are a few small things to do for fine detailing. The first one is a pipe .6mm rod which runs from the bottom of the Solebar at the centre of the motor bogie running to the centre of the Vacuum Vee and then running into the middle. Its only on the one side as shown ...

The quickest I have built a S4 Running Chassis including the Coupling Rods was a North Staffs 242t from the Eric Moleneux kit now London Rd. Models, is approximately 3 hours of working time. It was done over 2 days as the chassis was built and washed on the first day then painted in the morning of n...

The next parts to put on are the Motor Mounts from the Chassis Kit. First of all the edges on the front need rounding. The rear edges could also be done as they are round on the real thing but I have left the backs as I don't want to loose to much metal for strength. They also need the base drilled ...

Hi Roger I have put together and sold plenty of the Morgan Underframes and this problem has not been mentioned to me before. My first thought was that you have made them back to front. You have not put a picture up of the bearing in the carrier, but the bearing should not go through the carrier but ...

Moving on to the buffer beams. The Overlay is the next part to be added, this needs to have the bottom lip folded by 90 degree and the rivets popped out on the back first. IMG_4877.JPG When folded, it needs to be bent to match the underframe profile there are two slots in the folded over section to ...

With the steps now built they need the top filing flat and making fit the half etched space in the underframe. IMG_4858.JPG Note that the rod in the Centre step is still loose I have also added the truss rods which slot through the step frame between the two steps. Bent up to meet the Solebar behind...

Post by billbedford » Thu Apr 18, 2019 10:01 am Very clever, but using the ball mill will give the wrong shape to the flare. Thanks Bill for pointing that out . I only put the basic shape in the chimney in the big lathe all the detail is done in the Boley. You will notice in the picture that the fi...

Hi John It was getting a set of engraving balls with a Dremel drill kit that made me think of using them to producing the flair I just needed to hold the work steady and rotate it. The Vertical slide is one of the best tools I bought for the lathe. I had to make it fit the cross slide but that was o...

Hi Philip I used to have the Unimat SL with milling attachment. Excellent machine and have done chimneys and domes on it. It did have a self centring chuck but even with that it did spin about 2thou off centre as most self centring chucks do. Its always best to use Collets they are usually expensive...

Now moving it over to the Boley Watchmakers Lathe. I love this lathe as it has a foot peddle switch so it only runs when I am ready to cut, and I can use the big magnifier on it. IMG_4831.JPG Now drilling the top with a 4mm drill I have already put in 2mm pilot hole in and will go down about 5mm. IM...

Hi Will The Flair Jig is another home made tool. It is clamped to the back post on the cross slide where the parting tool is usually held. The chimney or dome of safety valve is fitted/Soldered to a 1/8th steel rod slotted into the jig and then the base runs against the runner which is in brass so i...

I picked up a small job of turning a CR Dunallastair 440 Chimney . 54473 Elgin29.5.58.jpg So Starting with the Flycutting I have set the Vertical slide in the lathe. IMG_4819.JPG Setting the height or the centre line IMG_4811.JPG Making sure its set to a right angle to the cutter the Flycutter is a ...

The next step is to add the Queen Posts for the truss rods to slot onto. They are made up of two parts each to get thickness and help strengthen them. IMG_4805.JPG The two parts should be soldered together and the half etched side is the front. Then attach to the solebar with so that it is behind th...

The next Job is to attach the Vacuum Vees, Driver End Ribs and the Motor Suspension Backing Plates. IMG_4791.JPG The front ribs should fit into the slots in the Underframe and the Bogie Mount and be just short of the Buffer beam so that they can be folded slightly to go 2mm past the fold in the buff...