Scalefour Forum

Thanks, Steve, that's very helpful indeed. Being for a Fox 8' bogie the etch I have is not quite the same as BR Mk1 units in John Brighton's article - in fact, there are quite a few differences. First, the brake etchings on the Mk.1s already incorporate brake shoes - on mine they have to be added se...

I hadn't actually been using the wire supplied with the kit as I've found that prone to rust - indeed, someimes when I've opened a pack i've found traces of rust on the wire. So instead I've been using Elixir Anti-Rust plain steel guitar wire, No. 11 in this instance. The problem I've just had may b...

I am currenty buiding a set of bill Bedford's 8' Fox coach bigies and have a come across a couple of problems. First, the braking system. I was gratified on making up and fitting the outside brakes that they lined up perfectly with the wheels. However, the inner sets leave the brake blocks too far a...

On the other hand, when dealing with wagons with a wheelbase of less than, say, 10', many here would say that there's no need for any compensation or springing. Mind you, having said that, if you're building a kit it's maybe as easy to fit some form of springing as it is to ensure that the rigid und...

It's been a long time siince I last posted anout our monthly workshops, but it's still the same old crowd coming along to them. Unfortunately Colin Stephenson was unable to attend our most recent workshop, but the rest of us were here. John Duffy was weathering and fitting glazing to his GNSR "...

Me too. We're seeing some wonderful models.

DT

These are really great dioramas, John. As for the maritime models, I love some of these old WW1 battleship and Dreadnought designs and really fancy trying one - Trumpeter's HMS Dreadnought or one of the Zvezda kits of very curious Russian warships of that era, such as the Varyag with four spindly ri...

I now do my tenders with a combination of CSBs and split axles. All heve worked well with this combination.

DT

My take away is that unless spending relatively big bucks - a jack of all trades approach will likely be master of none. :? ..... which inevitably leads back to the earlier suggestion of the TBM220 Bench Drill and KT70 Compound Table If this is the way you're going to go, I'd recommend that you get...

If the MS104 is the same as other stands I've seen to that design, then the Proxxon MB200 stand is substantially better engineered stand. Sorry Nigel, it's not an MS104, it's an MB140/S. Can't say I've any complaints about it - in fact, I'm very pleased. It is of course a simple machine but it's so...

Tim, I suppose the decision rests on what the machine is to be largely used for. If you want a good drilling machine and think that it's possible but by no means certain that you might do some milling in the future, then the TBM220 and the KT70 might be preferable. If on the other hand you're defini...

On that subject .... this appears on the face of it to be quite a good buy? ..... is it? - And can you use it for drilling as well? https://www.axminster.co.uk/proxxon-mf-70-milling-machine-pm-40-precision-vice-package-deal-717497 If it's just drilling you're after, how about the Proxxon TBM220 Ben...

I suppose what you'll be doing is basically the same as rail already strung onto loose sleepers. I laid mine onto a Templot printout, thus ensuring correct angle and distance apart.

DT

Now that's my kind of jig, Julian! I shall make one up ready for use with the pillar drill I'm very much hoping to receive this Christmas.

DT

Having looked rather more carefully at Allan's jig, it strikes me that it may not be as uselul as i had initially thought because I've realised that it doesn't actually offer any assistance in drilling the hole through the wheel, which is, I think, what Julian (and me for that matter) would like. As...

I'm not at all sure that if you don't have the skill to drill the hole you've got the skill to make one of these jigs. As I've probably got neither I wonder if the Society might like to commision and sell the Goodwillie jig, either as a kit or Ready-to-Drill? It does seem an Extremely Useful Item. DT

Thanks, Philip, that's helpful. The only trouble is - will I remember it next time I find myself in that position?

DT

I di very much sympathise with you in this. Some years ago I bought and built a High Level industrial loco that has tiny driving wheels - smaller than coach wheels. Needless to say the kit and detailed chassis went together beautifully but I have been quite unable to get the loco to run properly and...

Well, that's very odd because in recent months I've used the Wheel Puller on a number of Gibson wheels and the plastic has not bent nor has the tyre come off though I understand that that did sometimes happen with older style Gibson wheels. DaveB, I'm not sure what you mean by "such a fit"...

Far be it for me to disagree, but as someone who has had to remove wheels on almost every chassis I've built (actually, delete the "almost") I've found it quite hard trying to twist a wheel off when it's tightly on the axle in the chassis, and this can all too often lead to distortion. I'v...

If you're going to be using Gibson wheels (I can't speak for others) then unless you're confident that you'll never have to remove them once they've been put on, the wheel puller may well indeed be useful. Once upon a time it had the reputation of not working well with Gibson wheels as it allegedly ...

On the basis that you're not going to be scratchbuilding (well, not yet anyway) I'd agree that the Avonside chassis jig and the GW Wheel press will make life a lot easier when you're building a loco kit. These two plus a high Level gearbox enabled me to build the first loco chassis I'd done that act...

Start again - it's essential that you get your baseboard right. I find 9mm ply fine when braced. Paint or varnish both sides, then I suggest you use cork rather than foam for the trackbed - I've heard too many stories about problems with foam whileas good old cork is tried, tested and generally foun...

That looks absolutely terrific, Mike, and has certainly inspired me to investate cellulose paints for future use. It was also very helpful your letting us know a suitable source for such paints.

David

I'm sure it's good. But the trouble is that at £125 for a sound decoder, it's hard to justify - or indeed, be able - to equip all the locos on one's layout with sound. I've tried sound in locos, and have found that apart from anything else it adds a new and very welcome dimension to driving the loco...