Scalefour Forum

In this instance it would appear that it is the ply rather than the MDF which has caused the issues? So investing in the more expensive option following on from advice taken seems to have caused issues not experienced before?

Or maybe I have this wrong

Having only ever built turnouts from kits before, I'm embarking on making my own using ply sleepers and functional chairs. I appreciate that this is a basic question but can someone please confirm that ordering the following Exactoscale sets will give me enough chairs to build a single turnout: 4CH...

John Donnelly wrote:S.... I love the flow that the track work has when built as a single unit...

Looks great to me ... will be fun watching this develop.

Me ... I just want to be in that VW Camper heading up into the hills for a spot of exploration and adventure

While I've never used it the flexible nature of foam underlay and pined track has always bothered me, and while I'm sure there are people who have been able to make it work successfully, I still suspect ensuring your track stays flat enough becomes a more difficult problem. However there IS a way t...

Tim, as stated by Flymo, Gordon Gravett's articles show the way but it is crucial that you use the right stuff - and it ain't Celotex! There seem to be three types of rigid insulation commonly available: Expanded polystyrene (EPS) this is the stuff that crumbles into little balls as soon as you tou...

I didn't have a noise problem on Clutton. Baseboards were 4mm ply, in box sections. Track was glued to 1/8" cork, with stone ballast. But my locos were built to be quiet, most noise came from the rolling stock! Apologies for going off topic again, but I am failing to understand why silent runn...

This may seem heresy .... but I quite like to hear the noise of the trains running along the track ... particularly the clickety clack over the joints .... or is this not what we are talking about ?

bobwallison wrote: My model is set around Buxton in the Peak District - all cuttings, embankments, and flying junctions

Tim, that's an interesting idea, so long as the stuff is completely rigid and will not compress or dent. If it were to be as solid as timber then perhaps it would be OK. But for underlay, perhaps, I'm not so sure. I had originally thought that foam underlay was a good idea, but am now pretty convin...

pardon the digression from the 1f build .... I am curious to canvas peoples opinion of closed cell rigid insulation as a track base? This starts from the assumption that using protocab the track will not need to be powered, and also based upon my surface operated point rodding and signal wire experi...

There was some discussion relating to 6 wheel clayton coaches on my thread a while back. This post by Mark Tatlow might be relevant ?

viewtopic.php?p=61333#p61333

Will L wrote:

Tim V wrote:

Will L wrote:Pendantic of Cheshir

I've never heard of that county

Jet lag

.... or Jat leg

Julian Roberts wrote:Thank you for sharing your continuing inspiration.

Seconded

Here with the jig set up with the square setting the opposite horn-block and guide .... mocked up to show how I used it.

It's such a luxury making a loco from a good kit where everything fits together! I cut my teeth on locos where I had to get Gibson frames and did a bit of bodging for the brakes. Whether the holes weren't in precisely the right place or it was my ineptitude it didn't matter much really, they aren't...

This may be P4 heresy but, as the axles are supposed to move up and down with the horn block guides, the wheelbase is a moveable feast. For the same reason the brake shoes can't be too tight against the wheel. The problem I had was that the centres of the brake rigging were different to the revised...

Right .... back to the 1F ;) Following all the experimentation and advice given ... and also because Dave Franks' new universal inside cylinder coupling rods are now available, I decided to unsolder everything ... clean up and start again. I want to set the hornblocks accurately from the new couplin...

looking forward to the video

Easiest way to pin an axles is to cut a slot across the end of the axle at a slight angle so it is deeper at one side and hardly goes down the other side at all. Pop on the axle as usual. Then use the slot to drill into the wheel hub. Put in a wire pin, fill up slot and clean off. Don Roland taught...

Thanks Mike I think I need the RAL colour swatch book now. RAL is a relatively limited range .... There is a far greater availability of colours on the market. Makes life more difficult, but may mean if what you want isn't available in RAL there could well be a match out there. Most suppliers hold ...

don't really know what I'm talking about .... but what about 3d printing (Bill Bedford) and the made to order wheel rims from Ultra scale?

I love P4, it's why I joined this great society. I just feel if I post 00 stuff it'll likely be ignored. Most of us joined because of P4 unless I'm mistaken. For what it's worth I joined the society initially because of the overall attitude towards modelling ... and the welcoming and friendly natur...

Philip Hall wrote: However, all wheels were dead concentric, either supplied that way or fettled.

Philip

Philip,

I would be interested to know your fettling technique? ... particularly given Gibson Wheels as a starting point.

Hi Julian, It would be great to see 12" :1' running through the peak again as it is such a beautiful route ... particularly if there were a way of running a heritage element in tandem ... but whilst keeping my fingers crossed I shall not be holding my breath - it will be one hell of an undertak...