Will L wrote:Well, as I’ve just started to set about converting an existing J10 from 00 to P4, hopefully for use on the Crewe area group layout Knutsford East, and I plan to use CSB’s under both Loco and tender, perhaps this is the ideal opportunity to do a blow by blow account.
Russ Elliott wrote:Will - the Brassmaster spring is not of the 'spring-assisted, soft' type. It is actually comparatively strong, in the region of 70g/mm, and therefore arguably a bit too strong for smaller, lighter locos. It was designed by Alistair Rolfe I understand, and I'm not aware Brassmasters have changed the spring since its introduction c 2003.
Stephen F wrote:My first question is: whether or not CSB can be compatible with Brassmasters blocks, considering they locate in the frame and therefore fixing handrail knobs would be difficult. I imagine it becomes a question of friction if the spring wire is out of line with the axle movement.
allanferguson wrote:I'm just into building my first CSB loco (a CR 4-4-0) I've used Brassmasters hornblocks, with old fashioned handrail knobs in holes drilled in the bearings. the lateral displacement is only 0.3mm (per Brassmasters drawing) and it seems to work OK. We'll see when there's a loco body on top!
John Bateson wrote:Brassmasters hornblocks - how to fit CSBs.
Short length of brass tube soldered horizontally at the top and at the rear?
Small 1mmx1mm 'L' section with a hole in one side to suit the spring wire, again soldered at the top and rear of the hornblock?
Two longer 1mmx1mm 'L' section soldered at each side and rear of the hornblock?
Stephen F wrote:Looks good to me too, Allan, please let us know how it turns out. I suppose if necessary the handrail knobs could be filed down so they went right in up to their necks, as it
Mike Garwood wrote:Where does the centre of the horn block get measured from to give you the correct starting place, so that you get the correct ride height. I've looked at the CLAG site - thanks Russ loads of vital info there for the uninitiated - but I still don't understand where to start. Is it pot luck? - probably not. Middle of the cut out? Not the brightest of engineers and IKB will be turning in the proverbial over my lack of understanding
dcockling wrote:Mike Garwood wrote:Where does the centre of the horn block get measured from to give you the correct starting place, so that you get the correct ride height. I've looked at the CLAG site - thanks Russ loads of vital info there for the uninitiated - but I still don't understand where to start. Is it pot luck? - probably not. Middle of the cut out? Not the brightest of engineers and IKB will be turning in the proverbial over my lack of understanding
Did you look on this page on the CLAG site?
All the Best
Flymo748 wrote:I read Mike's question in a different way, in the light of recent experiences...
He's using a set of Alan Gibson frames. These come with the cutouts for hornblocks already in place - you don't have axle centres to mark out a centre-line from, and then fret out the rectangular cutouts around them. There is no datum point from which to make the measurements that CLAG's Annex 4 from.
Don't be, looks like a neat enough bit of modelling to me.allanferguson wrote:Will L asked "I'd be interested to know how the suspension on the bogey is arranged."
So this is it. I'm a bit embarrassed about showing this, which is a bit of a lash up, I think.
I like the look of it, but a quibble follows.However it does seem to work. It caused me a lot of angst as I was working from the data on the CLAG web site (very helpful)....
..A single springy beam on each side rests on top of the axles which run in slots in the frames. The brass rod through the two original handrail knobs just stops the axles from falling out. The spring beams had to be bent to hide behind the frames and I made a wee jig for that as I may have to make quite a few -- I think these may be too strong.
I do apologise for taking over this thread -- I only piped up because of the question about Brassmasters bearings; I'll pipe down now!
DavidM wrote:Great stuff, Will.
I'd be interested to know more about your pickups - they look very clever.
DaveyTee wrote:Is it a matter of trial and error, with a number of (presumably) different gauge guitar strings to hand, or are mathematical calculations required?
Horsetan wrote:Russ Elliott wrote:.....I'm also well impressed by Will's pickups - the chunky stabiliser rod is interesting.
Reminds me of those distillery tubes, or something you'd see in a mad scientist's laboratory!
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests