New Hornby BR Standard brake van

[Captain Kernow]

I bought one of the new Hornby BR Standard brake vans the other day, and in general, I rather like it, so I've decided it needs converting to P4.

I was thinking about one of Michael Clark's R-T-R sprung conversion sets, and was wondering if this was the most suitable item from his catalogue to go for? http://www.scalefour.org/masokits/wagonsuspension.html

Many thanks.

Tim

[grovenor-2685]

I would suggest you have a look here first http://www.norgrove.me.uk/masokit3.htm
regards
Keith

[newport_rod]

Tim
An alternative would be the Bradwell chassis:
http://www.scalefour.org/bradwell/rollingstock.html

I can't claim to have built one though. It's still on my to-do shelf.
Rod

[Captain Kernow]

I would suggest you have a look here first http://www.norgrove.me.uk/masokit3.htm
regards
Keith

Thanks for that, Keith, some very useful tips there. Would you say that the fret you bought was the same one that I showed in my link, though?

Tim
An alternative would be the Bradwell chassis:
http://www.scalefour.org/bradwell/rollingstock.html

I can't claim to have built one though. It's still on my to-do shelf.
Rod

Actually, I do have a Bradwell kit, Rod, but it's waiting to be fitted to an Airfix body...

[grovenor-2685]

Would you say that the fret you bought was the same one that I showed in my link, though?

Item 7.01 I believe, I can probably check the packet when I get home.
Regards
Keith

[craig_whilding]

Probably better off with inside bearings on the Hornby as the plastic is normally rather hard and the w-irons quite thick.

The Bradwell chassis is great under a Bachmann body and probably under this too if its also the correct length but bearing in mind the cost of the base item a new chassis would add about 70% to the cost. Its a lot of work sticking an Airfix body on a Bradwell chassis if you want an accurate body by the way.

[Tim V]

I saw a Hornby brake van this week, and quite honestly, I couldn't tell the difference between it and the Bachman one.

[grovenor-2685]

I can probably check the packet when I get home.

or so I thought as i must have half of it left, but its not in the usual place and everything else is hard to get at at present. But I am 99% sure that's the one.

I couldn't tell the difference between it and the Bachman one.

The Bachmann one has much deeper grooves between the planks
Regards
Keith

[Captain Kernow]

Its a lot of work sticking an Airfix body on a Bradwell chassis if you want an accurate body by the way.

How much work would you say is involved in your estimation, Craig? The Bradwell etch sorts out the flush glazing issue at least.

[craig_whilding]

Its a lot of work sticking an Airfix body on a Bradwell chassis if you want an accurate body by the way.

How much work would you say is involved in your estimation, Craig? The Bradwell etch sorts out the flush glazing issue at least.

The roof needs replacing, the ducket glazing is interesting and the weights on the ends need cutting down to size. I just found repainting the Bachmann to sort out the plank depth easier.

My Bachmann had a two panel door window though so it needs some microstrip to make it 4 panel.

An Airfix brake is useful though for the J hangar suspension..

[mlgilbert30]

Tim, Craig

Isn't the Airfix ducket too high (or low, can't remember which it is) as well?

Cheers....Morgan

[craig_whilding]

Tim, Craig
Isn't the Airfix ducket too high (or low, can't remember which it is) as well?
Cheers....Morgan

Yes 1mm too low according to the instructions though when I put the Bachmann next to it the different wasn't really that noticeable, you can probably move the horizontal section of handrail slightly to compensate. The sides are also slightly low once you've replaced the roof.

There is a lot about the modifications in the instructions but as I sold the underframes off Bachmann bodies I found those were a perfect fit and a much simpler proposition. I do have another two chassis in the box though to finish off my BR brake requirements for the mineral rake and the balancing moves you see a lot of in the valley's..

[Captain Kernow]

Thanks for all the comments to my initial and subsequent enquiries.

In point of fact, Morgan, if you speak to Peter Archard (one half of the 'Matford' team), he advises me that he has found one diagram where the duckets are at the right height. Interestingly, when I compared the bodies of the Hornby one, with an Airfix one, I couldn't see any difference in height...

Notwithstanding this, I will look to fit some Masokits units in my Hornby brake van in due course.

For the remaining Airfix kits, I will certainly replace the roof on the next one, and fit flush glazing, either using Bradwell components or cut some Cobex to size as I did last time.

A source of etched safety rails (the ones that the guard can put up when he's on the verandah) would be useful, though...

[Hardwick]

Has anyone just tried popping some new wheels in the Hornby one? I had a look at it at DEMU Showcase. It looked very nice and there was enough clearance for P4 on first inspection.
Michael Prince

[newport_rod]

Has anyone just tried popping some new wheels in the Hornby one? I had a look at it at DEMU Showcase. It looked very nice and there was enough clearance for P4 on first inspection.
Michael Prince

I haven't, but fellow Nagnag member Bernie Baker has and he said this :
"Yes, - ignored the expensive options and just threw some Exactoscale wheels into it, after some scraping and bending of plastic."
And he sent this helpful (hopefully attached)photo:
.
Cheers
Rod

[Hardwick]

I wouldn't bend the brake hangers. Best is to remove the brakes altogether though this is fiddly and you need to remove the body first. Be careful of the handrails. They need lifting from the glued/painted fixings with a small screwdriver. Be extra careful not to damage the footsteps (as I did).

Punch the moulded braked out using a square punch or the end of an old file. They will go eventually but might need a bit of persuasion with pliers and a knife.

Once they are out enlarge the holes they came from outwards, towards the solebars. I cut them as the plasic is easy to carve away, even on the 'blind' hole under the concrete block. Remember you want to make them about 18.5-19mm apart. It is also easier to remove a little plastic from the bases of the brake moulding so that the wheels will clear them. Trial fit them and if they don't spin, file a bit more away. Once you are happy with the running of the wheels, reassemble, add a little glue to hold them and that's it.

This method takes longer but results in a better model with no tendency for the brakes to spring back over time.
I'm not 100% convinced by the running of the axles in the plastic and might add bearings or change the wheels for Exacto flat ended ones.

In all a nice model. I'm not sure why one of the magazine or forum reviewers got so uptight about not being able to see a stove inside when they got it wrong about the brake position. Irony? I think they were cast irony (to misquote Baldrick).

Michael Prince