Stripping

[David B]

No, nothing like that.

I have a white metal B Type bus my father was working on when he died. I need to begin again.

What would you recommend to strip enamel paint? In my younger days I used brake fluid but now I get the garage to do car maintenance as I no longer recognise or understand what's under the bonnet so my supply has long gone.

[Alan Woodard]

Soak it in a jar of cellulose thinners. That makes all the paint crincle. Use an old paint brush and get in all the corners.

Cheers.

Al.

[Simon_S]

Bartoline TX10 Paint and Varnish Stripper has worked well for me. It's pretty effective, washes off with water and has a consistency like PVA glue so is easy to apply selectively if you only want to strip part of a model.

[Tim V]

Brake fluid isn't what it used to be, and sometimes no longer strips paint!

I used some Wilko (remember them) paint stripper.

You should be able to find paint stripper in your local DIY store.

[davebradwell]

Do you need to be concerned how the model is held together if a kit? Solvents and glue might be a bad mix!

DaveB

[Mike Paterson]

Don't use nitromors on a plastic model.

20220614_212101.jpg

That was a nicely detailed airfix rtr prairie

[Tim V]

Meths used to be good on plastic models.

[David Thorpe]

If you've got a suitable ultrasonic bath, pop the bus into it together with a 10:1 solution water to cleaning fluid (I use Allendale Ultrasonics General Purpose fluid) and switch on at the recommended temperature, probably round about 40/50 degrees. Give it about 45 minutes. I've found this infallible in stripping paint from models - it even took the factory finish off old Hornby Dublo tinplate models and it works on both metal and plastic.

To illustrate my point, I have a couple of ancient Tri-Ang Caledonian coaches that I use for tersting paint finishes. I recently cleaned one up using the ultrasonic bath. It's obviously not the same coach, but below is a picture showing one such coach before cleaning and another, which was in a similar condition, after cleaning. (a little bit of scrubbing with an old toothbrush was required for some of the corners).

coach.jpg

[Daddyman]

Metal models: cellulose thinners - takes five minutes and the job is done.

Plastic models: I recently switched to IPA after brake fluid stopped working. Takes a while, and not without its foibles, so I'm inclined to try David Thorpe's method. David: does it damage detail at all? Is there any softening of the plastic?

[David Thorpe]

No damage or softening to the plastic that I've found. I suggest you experiment first if you've got anything to try it out on (being somerthing of a hoarder I've got lots of such things!). I don't know how necessary the cleaning fluid is, or if other makes of fluids would work in the same way.

Advantage over cellulose thinners is that it's probably cheaper, no nasty fumes, and you can put more than one thing in at a time, and indeed put in a second batch afterwards using the same liquid although it does eventually get a bit murkier and a bit hotter and maybe a bit weaker.

[David B]

Many thanks to all. Much food for thought. If I try each one, I should get a pristine model!

DaveB - I am going to disassemble the kit when the paint has gone. My father was a glue man so if the stripper does attack the glue, it will be helpful.

[Hardwicke]

Meths used to be good on plastic models.

And in brown paper bags...

[Hardwicke]

Has anyone tried boat hull paint stripper?

[allanferguson]

A good many years ago I had a ratio plastic wagon which needed to be stripped or scrapped. I was a boat owner then, so had a good supply of Nitromors. I absentmindedly left it immersed overnight, and approached it in fear and trembling the next day. After a good rinse and a wee bit help from a toothbrush it emerged clean and undamaged.And the glue (I think Araldite) had also dissolved and the wagon became an unassembled kit. None of the detail or surfaces were damaged, and I was able to reassemble it with solvent and paint it properly. The toothbrush did assume an odd shape, though!
BE AWARE Nitromors is nasty stuff. Never get it on your skin, and have running water handy.

Allan Ferguson

[Hardwicke]

A good many years ago I had a ratio plastic wagon which needed to be stripped or scrapped. I was a boat owner then, so had a good supply of Nitromors. I absentmindedly left it immersed overnight, and approached it in fear and trembling the next day. After a good rinse and a wee bit help from a toothbrush it emerged clean and undamaged.And the glue (I think Araldite) had also dissolved and the wagon became an unassembled kit. None of the detail or surfaces were damaged, and I was able to reassemble it with solvent and paint it properly. The toothbrush did assume an odd shape, though!
BE AWARE Nitromors is nasty stuff. Never get it on your skin, and have running water handy.

Allan Ferguson

Be careful. I put some on a Mainline coal wagon and had to wash it off very quickly. ..

[Hardwicke]

A good many years ago I had a ratio plastic wagon which needed to be stripped or scrapped. I was a boat owner then, so had a good supply of Nitromors.

Allan Ferguson

I'm talking of the stuff for fibreglass hulls. It's safe on plastic. If only Ronseal ""Ronstrip" was still available.

[jasp]

The original Nitromors was great but since tri-chloro methylene (methylene chloride) was removed, presumably by EU edict, the current stuff is useless.
As Allan says, the original was a bit nasty in terms of volatile solvents and its effect on skin but did work.
Strippers containing the above can sometimes be purchased on ebay by (falsely claiming to be a licensed professional)
I like Dave Thorpe’s method, worth a try when my current solvent runs out
Jim P

[David Thorpe]

I've just done another experiment with two old Tri-Ang coach sides which I painted (very badly) with enamels about 50 years ago. Filled with 2 litres of water at 50ºC and run for 10 minutes, the ultrasonic bath had no effect on the paint. I then added 150ml of Allendale General Prurpose cleaning fluid and the effect was almost instantaneous. After 45 minutes almost all the paint was off though traces remained in nooks and crannies and most of that was removed with a stiffish toothbrush under a running tap.

The fluid currently retails at £11.47 for a litre, £27.54 for 5 litres, in each case plus £4.50 postage. As I have 5L of the stuff, 150ml therefore cost me about a pound. There are of course numerous other brands but I haven't tried them. And of course you also need an ultrasonic bath. I've got two, the larger one big enough for coaches and the smaller fine for wagons and other small items. I find that with the fluid added both will strip paint. Without the fluid they have no effect.

[David B]

Thank you, David.

[45609]

A caustic soda solution is a good paint stripper for anything, especially wood and plastic. The granulated stuff that you can mix up yourself stuff is dirt cheap.

In my IPMS days lots of people (including me) used Mr. Muscle oven cleaner as an effective paint stripper. Another caustic product. Sprayed on and then sealed in a plastic bag for 24 hours then scrub with an old toothbrush under running water. Repeat as required.

I’ve also used Precision Superstrip. It is quite pricy stuff but I have passed mine through a strainer and filter paper a few times. Discoloured but still effective.

Cheers…Morgan

[steve howe]

I've always used brake fluid (from Halfords) on plastic and cellulose thinners on metal. I was told recently that Dettol will strip paint from plastic.... yet to try that one!

Steve

[Daddyman]

I was told recently that Dettol will strip paint from plastic.... yet to try that one!

In my IPMS days lots of people (including me) used Mr. Muscle oven cleaner as an effective paint stripper. Another caustic product. Sprayed on and then sealed in a plastic bag for 24 hours then scrub with an old toothbrush under running water. Repeat as required. I’ve also used Precision Superstrip. It is quite pricy stuff but I have passed mine through a strainer and filter paper a few times. Discoloured but still effective

These are all much slower and/or more expensive than IPA, and, potentially, than David Thorpe's method. Dettol really stinks and any model that it has been used on, and any box, room or house it has been used in will retain the smell for many weeks - all with no gain over IPA. Additionally, there are reports on RMW of Dettol attacking some plastics - as there are with brake fluid, and also with Precision Superstrip a few years ago.

[shipbadger]

I tried using Dettol as a paint stripper. Must admit I don't have an aversion to the smell but it was slow and by the time all the paint was loosened the plastic was starting to soften. I then had to leave the model for several weeks before the plastic hardened again, presumably as whatever the active ingredients are slowly evaporated. I've not used Dettol as a paint stripper again. With regard using hydraulic fluid, modern formualtions are designed not to strip paint as spillages under the bonnet used to take the paint off the bodywork. If you have an old tin at the back of the garage that may work. If you are thinking of popping down to Halfords for a can you will probably be out of luck. From memory its formulations up to Dot3 that strip paint but I'm sure somebody will correct me if I'm wrong.
Tony Comber

[Guy Rixon]

About five years ago, I used newly-bought Nitromors to remove enamel paint from a brass model. It moved the enamel layer easily enough but did less well on the Halfords' primer; the later needed a lot of scrubbing. The stripper also softened the plastic roof rather quickly, but as it's a gel it's fairly easy to control.

[stevemcclary]

In Australia we have a paint supplier called SMS (Scale Model Supply), as well as a range of Acrylic Lacquer paints they also do a product called Ultimate Paint Remover.

I have used this to strip enamel paints off my 45-year old Cooper Craft and Kirk wagon kits that I assembled as a teenager. It cleans the paint off cleanly with a single application and does not appear to damage the plastic even when left overnight.


The picture shows the before and after following a 5-minute soak and a quick scrub with a toothbrush under running water.

The active ingredient is identified as propylene Glycol Monomethyl Ether, and is listed as flamable and poisonous. However, it appears to have little or no smell and doesn't appear to damage anything else it comes into contact with.

Steve