Re-wheeling the Bachmann Class 85

[jim s-w]

Hi All

A quick how to for those inclined to rewheel the 85.

The class 85 wheel is 4ft diameter. The nearest I found when I did my 81s was the Alan Gibson 3ft 11 disk and as thats within the wear rate so that what I used.

The Bachmann model uses split axles and picks up through the bearings. As the Alan Gibson wheels have plastic middles (and I didn't have any split axes) I drilled through the gear with a 2mm drill and pushed it onto my new axles.



I was chuffed to see that Bachmann have done the gubbins on the face of the wheel and even more chuffed to see it a separate bit. Icing on the cake is that when fitted to a P4 wheel the wheelset still fits between the sidefames. The moulding is glued to the wheel and 2 prongs sit in holes. I drilled these from the back and taking it slowly (and with the stereo off) you can hear the glue fail. The Backs were cleaned up and they were glued to the new wheel.



Cutting the old pickups back I soldered a bit of .3mm brass wire as per the picture. These were bent to bear on the back of the tyre.



Before and after. For those wanting to renumber their models a spot of turps substitute on a cotton bud and a little bit of rubbing and the old numbers came away nice and cleanly.

HTH

Jim

[Terry Bendall]

A nice result Jim. Just a bit of weathering and it will be ready to sit on BNS. A good idea to use a longer piece of wire for the new pick ups and the cut off afterwards. Gives you something to hold whilst soldering and no need even to take the body off.

One to have on the Society stand at the DEMU Showcase in a couple of week's time.

Terry Bendall

[jim s-w]

Thanks Terry

Ill bring it along, it might be grubby by then too (no promises though)

In the meantime been adding a spot of detail to one of them



First up - I didn't like the supplied buffers at all and so I replaced them with A1 models 18" oleos - OK these are not sprung but I am not doing and shunting so I am not bothered. The air horn covers are simply bits of plastic tube cut to shape (the stem of a cotton bud is ideal) and the little triangular steps are just .4mm wire bent to shape. Finally a little bit of microstrip for the ETH recepticle and thats about it. I notice theres no builders plates under the second mans window so I will see what brian at Shawplan has.

Cheers

Jim

[jim s-w]

Hi All

This is how I have weathered my class 85's (other methods are available but I hope this is useful.)

I use 3 different techniques and the first is washes.



I use neat turps substitute to 'wet' the model and then with small amounts of paint add streaks and dirt around the details - those used to water colour painting will find this very familiar. For 85020 I found a pic with the front looking quite chipped and to replicate this I loaded my brush with a small amount of grey and used a screwdriver to flick the paint onto the front.



I also washed the roof and the corridor while I was at it.



The next stage (when thats dried for a few days) is airbrushing.



I Use humbrol 29 for the dust and a mix of gunmetal and black for the greased bits.



Final stage is drybrushing



Referring to pictures class 85s seem to collect dark patches on the brake push rods, the axleboxes, on the battery box hinges and below the dampers - use gunmetal for this and also to highlight the springs. Use metal coat aluminim for the edges of the footsteps and finally a touch of clear floor polish (or gloss varnish) for the shiny bits on the push rods. (you can better see the chips on the front in this picture)



Below a couple of pics on the layout





Cheers

Jim

[DougN]

Very lovely weathering there, Jim, restrained workerday clean but has been doing some long distant work.UMMMM
Thanks so much for telling us the Humbrol Number also and what colour where. Makes me want to give it another try!