Comet Chassis - 14xx

[TEZBEDZ]

I have got an OO model of a 14xx with a Comet Chassis it runs well and both the non driven forward drivers and trailing axle are sprung. It is fitted with a 38-1 gearbox, Romford Wheels and a lenz dcc chip.

My question is: Is it feasible to convert it to P4?

Two options I see, are to dismantle and rebuild from the ground up with P4 spacers or secondly, remove wheels replace with Gibson or Ultrascale wheels and axles and add cosmetic frames to cover the original (this will involve moving brake gear etc)

Is it feasible, or is there another option, or should I just buy a new chassis and start from scratch?

Terry

[Philip Hall]

If it runs well I'd treat it as you would a RTR chassis and go for the cosmetic frames route. You'll be hard put to see the difference once it's done, and with a 14XX you'll only have to widen the frames forward of the trailing axle sub frame. Make a tracing of the sideframes once the wheels and brakes are off, transfer that to 20thou black Plastikard and mount these on blocks of 40thou dotted around the original frames - gel superglue is fine for this, then you can use MekPak to attach the frames.

If you unsolder the brakes from the hangers, and the hangers from the frames, you can then drill through from inside the frames (admittedly at an angle but it won't matter too much) and solder in some new hangers; these can then be soldered into the original brakes having cleaned up the etchings and opened up the holes. If you're careful you may even be able to clean up and reuse the brake rodding.

Philip

[Flymo748]

Two options I see, are to dismantle and rebuild from the ground up with P4 spacers or secondly, remove wheels replace with Gibson or Ultrascale wheels and axles and add cosmetic frames to cover the original (this will involve moving brake gear etc)
Terry

I'd also opt for the second option - cosmetic frames.

This picture below shows the first (I think - it was that or a 517) ever locomotive that I built. It was from an M&L (pre-Alan Gibson acquiring the range) cast whitemetal kit with an etched brass chassis.

You will see that in amongst the various bodges are cosmetic sideframes superglued onto the original OO chassis. As a matter of fact, you can't really miss them as on a GWR Buffalo tank in 1910 livery, they were painted bright vermillion!

You'll also see the brake gear in the correct places next to the tyres as well.

The locomotive ran without trouble, and indeed still runs today.

Flymo