Eridge signals

[Rod Cameron]

These have been dormant for a while, as editorJohn is no doubt aware, but I've recently begun to work on them again. Morgan Gilbert's Midland signal almost made me stop posting this, looking at the relative clumsiness of mine, but we're all progressing aren't we and I'm a novice at making signals! Should've started with a straightforward single post, but Eridge hasn't got any (at least it didn't on the Mk1 layout, more anon elsewhere).

This is the ex-LBSC up starter bracket, now at the stage where it works and just beginning to get detailed up. The landing rails and ladders have just been added. I'm not the neatest of solderers so there's a bit of tidying up to do.

[mlgilbert30]

Hi Rod,

I think your signals look great having seen all of them posted on RMweb http://www.rmweb.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=14951. As you probably know getting them to work reliably is half the battle. Although you haven't posted the pic here I really like the idea you had for making the operating rods using the Bill Bedford handrail bending jig. Wish I had thought of that. Lost count of the feet of wire I wasted on the operating rods and handrails until I was satisfied. Making semaphore signals with a scale apperance is one of the most difficult jobs I have encountered. Hope to see them finished off and painted soon.

Cheers....Morgan

[Rod Cameron]

Thanks Morgan, I need to do that while there are still people alive who remember Signals for Eridge Pt 1 in the Snooze!

Anyway, to shortcircuit the RMWeb link, here are the pics you referred to. Self explanatory really, but just a case of offering up the dividers to the distance you want to prepare the operating wire for, adjusting to fit, and transferring the dividers to the Bedford jig to find the length that matches.

[Rod Cameron]

Up starters now nearly complete - finials, lamps, counterweights etc fitted and also the control mechanism. Designed to be unpluggable hence the 'gravity/clock-weight' system which will bear on control arms of Tortoises mounted sideways to give an up-down movement (and yes I realise it doesn't 'fail safe'! Signal itself needs only some support plates at the top of the main post (to be made up in plasticard) and painting to finish.

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[nberrington]

Rod - these look splendid. What did you use for the flazing? Is there a way to get the lamps to work? Ive toyed with various attempts at lighting and fail miserably.

Neil

[nberrington]

That would be glazing

[Rod Cameron]

Thanks Neil - the glazing is just coloured plastic from MSE http://www.modelsignals.com/, although fixing them to the back of the spectacle is not problem-free (using cyano or varnish isn't 100% reliable). Alternatives could be to use Kristal Kleer and felt pens or use double-thickness spectacle plates as used by Mike Megginson on http://www.rmweb.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=39415

[mlgilbert30]

The signals are looking great Rod.

I use a drop of PVA glue to glaze spectacle plates. First stick a piece of masking tape on the front and place a drop of PVA into the spectacle plate ring with a cocktail stick from behind. You need leave it for 24 hours, with the spectacle plate horizontal, for the glue to dry. Then carefully peel the masking tape away. The dry PVA should be nice and flat on the front. I then colour the glazing by painting it with translucent glass paint (red, blue or yellow) as appropriate. The PVA idea was from Derek Munday's book on signal building.

Morgan

[Rod Cameron]

Thanks for that Morgan, worth a try on the spectacles that have 'failed' on other signals - something that can also be done after the arms have been mounted as long as they are kept horizontal. And I've got that book too, but never registered that method!

[Captain Kernow]

I've never had any problems glueing the clear coloured wrappers from certain Quality Street chocs (the red and blue flavoured ones, I mean) onto the back of the spectacle plates (MSE or D&S) and carefully painting round the bit of the wrapper that you don't see through with black paint, very hard to see under normal viewing distances!

[Rod Cameron]

under normal viewing distances!

And thinking about another discussion, what would that be CK?

And thanks for reminding me I haven't done anything on these for nearly a year!

[Steve4RoseGrove]

A refinement of the PVA idea is to colour the PVA before application using ordinary ink. It worked well on the Walford Town signals (about 24 years ago which is my excuse for forgetting the source of the idea).

[grovenor-2685]

Designed to be unpluggable hence the 'gravity/clock-weight' system which will bear on control arms of Tortoises mounted sideways to give an up-down movement

I would suggest you look at using servos rather than tortoises, takes up a lot less room and is more controllable, and at substantially reduced cost.
I'll take a pic or two for you over the weekend.
Keith

[grovenor-2685]

I am using a very similar weight system to have the signals plug in. This Gantry will eventually have 6 arms. So far three of the weight tubes are fitted and two of the arms connected, the easy ones . I rigged it up on the test bench with the first of the eventual 6 servos and took the pics below. Hopefully you can see how it works.
The Servo driver here is the basic MERG one without bounce. I may try the alternative software for bounce later but priority is now on the mechanics for the other dolls.
Regards
Keith

[Rod Cameron]

Thanks Keith, very useful

[pinkmouse]

Very interesting Keith, as the Eridge wiring/electrical subcontractor, I can see a little more research is needed.